I heard it coming, starting last winter. There was an ever-louder howl from the “bullet proof” B/W T-85 transmission in first and second gear. It had to be one of the bearings. It was perfectly fine in third, so maybe the counter shaft? But I’m not (yet) an expert on these.
I’ve been using the truck as little as possible, and procrastinating about dealing with it. I had to get some gravel and concrete pads for the four mini-splits I’m installing in my rentals. On the way home I turned a corner and downshifted into second, and when I started accelerating, a horrible clanging sound emanated from down there. Game up.
I eased over to the side of this road. Now what? It did it in first gear too. Maybe I can nurse it home in third? I tried that, slipping the clutch gently. It sounded perfectly fine, and I got the truck up to a bit of speed. But I was hauling a pretty good load, and there were going to be a couple of steepish starts from a light to deal with. Uncharacteristically, I decided not to risk it. This was a much better spot to be broken down in than some others on the way home.
So for the first time in 34 years with the truck, I called for a tow. The last time it broke down about 15 years ago, with a broken fiber cam gear, I had Stephanie tow me home with the Forester. But it was empty then, and the TSX doesn’t have a tow hitch, and…I’m older and wiser, maybe a wee bit anyway.
Now it’s sitting in front of the house. I have to rent a trailer tomorrow for the Promaster to get the gravel out and finish the job. And I’m pondering my options, which are not so good.
I went to Drivetrain.com, which showed a bunch of various T85 rebuild kits. But when I called them, the guy said they had none, and that parts for these were getting hard to come by. I hope a deeper search will turn one up.
Look for a used transmission? There’s currently two on eBay; on for $995 and another for $2100. And just what condition are they in?
For right now, the plan is to try to find the parts and think about what it’s going to take to fix; myself or a pro. In the meantime, I’m keeping an eye out for a good utility trailer.
This is the point when a lot of old cars and trucks get parked in the side yard, and a newer vehicle replaces them. It’s something to consider. But me and my truck are pretty deeply bonded. I’m not sure I’m quite ready for that yet.
I just did a quick bit of looking around, Paul, and found this discussion online:
http://ford-mel-engine.com/viewtopic.php?t=1483
It claims that a Borg-Warner T-10 rebuild kit will work, but that’s obviously something worth checking for accuracy.
I don’t think you have anything to lose by trying to do the work yourself, Paul. You’ll need these:
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25354-Angle-Lock-Pliers/dp/B007STL2EE
You’ll want a service manual…a Motor Manual from the late 60s would be fine; it’ll have a manual transmission section. The problem I see is that you are going to have something broken, probably in the countershaft (the shaft itself, gear cluster, “driven” gear, or rollers could be bad). Finding those specific parts might take a little doing.
You’ll probably want access to a machine shop in case you get into a situation where something that’s been on the mainshaft for almost 60 years is a little sticky. You might be able to get away with renting a gear puller in that case, but it will probably take a little improvising.
Other than that, it’s just keeping track of disassembly, keeping the parts in order, and looking for the bad ones. You have the kind of analytical mind that will be able to do this job, no sweat. Pulling the transmission out will be the most actual physical labor. Oh, and cleaning everything up sucks, too.
Thanks, Aaron. I like new challenges, and a DIY repair/rebuild is quite compelling. Transmissions have always intimidated me, for lack of familiarity. It may well be time to break down that mental hurdle.
Compared to engines the transmission has always seemed more challenging and mysterious. I have toyed with the idea of rebuilding the transmission in the Parklane when the engine is pulled for rebuilding. That trans is a massive C6 as you know and automatics seem much more intimidating than manuals. Have an excellent two CD video of a Ford mechanic tearing down the transmission and putting it back together. I’ve been pondering this for 10 years as the trans has only a very minor slip from 2-3 but the engine pull is coming up sooner than later.
Best forum out there for our trucks with knowledgeable people and one old time Ford parts guy (Number Dummy) who knows all the parts.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum40/
Screw the new truck – that’s too fine a machine to sit. To what avail? Saving for what? Fix I say.
I think this calls for a moment of silence.
…
I would think there is a lot of info out there on these, as they were so widely used – didn’t almost every vehicle manufacturer use this unit at one point or other? I would probably be inclined to find an old-school transmission shop that could rebuild it, but then I don’t have lots of time or space to devote to the learning curve. Maybe plan B could be to take a chance on a used one then take on the project of rebuilding your own during your winter downtime. If the used one is good you then have a good one to sell, and if it’s not rebuilding the second will be a breeze compared to doing the first one.
Or maybe just do a 350/350 swap? 🙂
Sorry about the breakdown, Paul.
As an alternative to a used transmission, I’d start looking around to see what a local, reputable, established transmission shop would charge for a rebuild. It seems to me that these are simple enough to where the labor cost shouldn’t be that much.
I know you’re a fan of the T-85 and its legendary durability, but by any chance is there another more common transmission that would be a relatively easy fit?
EDIT: Looks like JPC and I were thinking along the same lines, at about the same time. 🙂
I figured you’d incline towards fixing and keeping it. If you’d said, “That’s it, I’m buying a newer truck, end of discussion,” I’d have been surprised.
That would be a dead giveaway that aliens had taken over Paul Niedermeyer!
Try car-part.com. Search by year, make, and model with drill-downs for engine, etc.
Excellent answer. Guessing at the details- transmission model, number of speeds, I came up with several options. The most expensive was $400. I used car-part.com extensively while I was working. I seached for parts from non-rust belt states to fix critical assemblies that had rusted away.
The salvage yards usually have several options to ship parts. A transmission would likely be strapped to a pallet and handed to a freight company. A few days later, it’s in your hands.
I’ve hunted down a replacement transmission and seats for my FC RX-7. The transmission came from 4 states away.
Car-part.com is a good option. Another is partsmarket.com they handle the transaction rather than dealing directly with the supplying yard.
Row52.com is another option but if you need someone to pull and ship the part you need to use one of the people who list their services for that yard so it is much more of a crap shoot as row52 just provides the ability for people to offer their services and doesn’t get involved with the transaction.
And yet another is http://www.hollanderparts.com .
Thanks, always good to have more options when searching for used parts, especially for less common vehicles.
Based on previous projects, I’m pretty confident that you will figure something out.
I’ve been trying to do some stuff with my Chrysler, and I don’t know if it is Covid or just the passage of time, but it seems like the supply chain for older parts is getting thinner and slower.
I vote for changeover to Ford 3-spd.
They went.on for years, beyond the big ’67 change, and are still plentiful and cheap.
I stumbled across this – I make no claims to know anything about the B/W T85, or even transmissions of any sort, but this guy seems to…. I toss it out for others, who do know about transmissions to comment on:
” The Borg Warner T10 4 speed is a T85 3 speed with an extra gear, and reverse moved into the tailshaft. The cases are the same. In fact the early T89 3 speed trans ( straight cut teeth and lower 1st gear) is the same case also. This is why the shift covers on all 3 transmissions say “T89” on them. I used a T10 4 speed kit to rebuild my T85. It had everything I needed, and with parts left over.
The OD was meant to be an automatic 4th gear on a standard 3 speed. It is essentially the same as having a 2 speed Fordomatic in the tailshaft, but it is shifted with an electric solenoid instead of hydraulic pressure. When hooked up in a stock mode, it has a kickdown switch on the firewall to drop it it out of OD for passing when you push the pedal to the floor. It also has a governor that drops it out of OD when you get below 18-20 mph. With the cable pulled out it is locked out of OD. With the cable pushed in it drops into OD when you let off the throttle.”
http://ford-mel-engine.com/viewtopic.php?t=1483
The quote above is from about halfway down the page.
If it were mine I would swap in a more modern 5 or 6 speed manual unit. The Toyota W5x series would be more than enough for this truck and come in wide array of gear ratios. can be had with manual clutch or Hydraulic. this of course would require a new drive shaft and some sort of engine to trans adapter.
the J160 may even be a viable option if you wanted, looks like it should be good for 250hp or 325 lbft of torque.
If you were closer to me I would say bring it over and put it on my lift we would have it back on the road in a weekend what ever option you chose. Unless you want to ship it to Missouri I guess I cannot be much help.
I was going to suggest a 5sp from a newer vehicle but I’d go with a Mazda unit as installed in the 88-95 F150 with the 300-6 as that has the right bellhousing to bolt directly to the engine.
That’s an attractive option in principle, but back when I used to hang out at Ford-six.com, there was a lot of bitching about it not being strong enough for a big six. It was commonly called the Mazdog.
The tow rating on the f150s with that tranny was only 2k or so because of it.
The M5OD will stand up to your 240 if you keep it full of the right fluid, shift it like a truck, not like you are drag racing and don’t try and do burn outs.
While some have certainly failed early there are lots of people out there who have managed to get 200k out of them even using them frequently for towing more than the 3500lb tow rating that Ford gave the trucks equipped with it.
The other option I mentioned below if the ZF 5 speed but they are typically more expensive to buy used. The other downfall to the ZF is that it is a 3sp with OD and Low so you’ve got that big gap common to 3sp transmissions. The Mazda unit is a 4sp with OD and better around town gear spacing.
M5OD
1: 3.90
2: 2.25
3: 1.46
4: 1.00
5: 0.80
R: 3.41
ZF5
1: 5.72
2: 2.94
3: 1.61
4: 1.00
5: 0.76
R: 5.24
The M5OD behind a 300-six in my “light” ’88 F-250 held up fine except for those top three freeze plugs falling out. Fortunately I caught it in time and epoxied them back in. What I didn’t care for was a too big of gap between 3rd & 4th which made mountain driving more difficult than it should have been. 1, 2, and three were closely spaced but 4th was pretty far away.
It looks like sourcing/installing the clutch slave cylinder is the only big hassle:
http://www.slick60s.com/viewtopic.php?t=34061
My 1993 F-150 300-6/Mazda 5-speed had a tall 1st gear + Tall Reverse. 1st & 2nd felt like same gear, 3d also pretty close. Felt like it was missing the lower gears, 5th not much use below 45mph.
Suggesting 4-speed with “Granny” low, common on 3/4t trucks.
Creeper 1st eliminates many cases of stinky burning clutch.
This shows in stock, for what it is worth
https://www.rigidaxle.com/products/t85-t89-transmission-bearing-and-seal-kit
Here’s what seems like an informative article from Hemmings on the T-85. among other things, it states that T-85’s used in trucks were different than those for other vehicles, so if you’re contemplating a swap, best do it with another truck tranny.
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/warner-t-85-t-89-three-speed-transmissions
Yes, there were a number of different versions made, with differences in input and output shaft splines and such depending on the application.
Mine came out of a junkyard, but I’m not totally sure from what vehicle, but most likely a Ford truck or big Ford car.
On third thought, considering the truck’s typical use, a changeover to T-18/19 “granny gear” would make sense too.
Another common box.
Bolt-up same on input end.
Floor would need to be changed to accommodate the “cane” shift lever.
I too see this as a golden opportunity to upgrade….maybe a Clark 5 speed out of a medium duty truck? Or an NV4500?
Good boxes but not bolt-ups.
T18 or NP435 without changes to housing, clutch, x-member.
This reminds me of when Lassie got hit by a car and they didn’t know of she pull through or not. She did though and hopefully your old yeller will too.
I cannot envision you either parking or junking our beloved truck. It will once again do some heavy lifting for you, hopefully after a not too expensive repair.
Me too, 🙂
Well that sucks.
As I and others have mentioned above a swap might be the best bet.
In addition to the Mazda 5sp there are some ZF 5sp with the 300 bellhousing. Their drawback is that I’m pretty sure that there are only ones set up for Hydraulic release, not the old push linkage.
For a 4sp the T-18 and NP-435 are options which may be able to use the existing mechanical clutch linkage.
So sorry to hear this, Paul.
I do hope it can be fixed, though. This truck has become our favorite website’s mascot!
Perhaps you can create an Eco-Boost version, like that Edsel that you reported on years ago.
Thank you all for lots of helpful feedback. I’m rather attached to the unique features of the T85/OD, which gives 5 useful gears and clutchless shifting. My first preference is to keep it, so that means either rebuilding myself or having someone do it. I’m rather intrigued by the new challenge of doing it myself. I’m sure parts can be found with a bit of looking, and some of you have already done that for me.
I need to think of the logistics, where I can remove the transmission and then leave the truck sitting for an extended period.
I also have to confront the fact that my engine has always had a small leak fro the rear seal, apparently due to a nick or such in my crankshaft. I had a guy add a sleeve to it, which helped considerably, but didn’t fix it totally. Which means my clutch is a bit oil-fouled, most noticably in reverse, where it stutters quite badly.
I’ve lived with it, but if I’m going to pull the transmission, I really ought to do something about that too. But that’s not an easy fix.
I think you’re on the right path here =)
The T85/OD *is* a sweet combo for a light truck, and is quite near bulletproof. I’m also fond of being able to toggle between direct and OD in 2nd and 3rd. One gives you an automatic passing gear on the highway, and the other gives you a super burst of acceleration (2OD to direct 2nd). 2OD is also a very flexible gear for around town and secondary roads. After 55 years… things can wear out. I’m guessing you’ll find a mess in there, what with the symptoms given, but rebuilding it or a like donor will net you another 50+ years before its next trans rebuild.
I think it’s a good idea to think very long and hard before changing any aspect of a vehicle you really like and count on for its qualities in daily use. I’m fairly new to commenting here, but I’ve been reading for a number of years. You’ve heaped quite a load of praise onto this vehicle, and I can see why!
My brother is flying from Denver to Cleveland for a heart procedure.
So it is only right that you get your truck to one of the great transmission shops in the US Midwest where the work can get done and at half the price.
Paul, the NP435 in my ’78 F250 finally had enough last year and while I could deal with it popping out of 3rd repeatedly, it got tiresome.
I had another 435 from the latest project truck and decided to tackle a rebuild. ~$450 (Canadian) got me a rebuild kit with bearings, synchros, input shaft and seals. I replaced two of the gears due to corrosion as well. All in about $600, sprayed it hot rod black and it works well.
Like you, I had avoided transmissions and left it to professionals. However, it was an enjoyable project actually and can be accomplished with standard hand tools. I purchased a puller for the input shaft bearing and a better set of feeler gauges, that was about it. The manual was easily found online. Not the same transmission but same principle – I was surprised at how few parts came out of it when they were all on the bench.
And if you want an NP435 core to rebuild and replace; I happen to know where there is one.
Good luck.
I join the others in the CC community in support, but have no expertise to offer. I’ve just gotta think that–whoever does it–a manual transmission reworking is less like watchmaking (= automatic transmission) and more of a straightforward benchwork job. Sentiment aside, I can’t see it as throwing good money after bad, ’cause even if you sell the truck, there’s market value in having the gearbox made right.
I discovered when it had to be replaced in May that my 2001 A/C exchanger wasn’t on a concrete slab but a chunk of styrofoam cloaked in textured gray fiberglass. Ants were removing the foam from the exposed bottom. The new one is on an open-bottomed plastic platform which I expect to sink into the clay. Perhaps you have stricter building codes in Oregon.
I’m picturing your A/C floating away in a flood.
Having rebuilt T85s I’ll offer my appropriately priced free opinion. lol
It could take a bit for more details to ferment out, but notably T85 has a miserable input shaft design that can’t be removed via the front. Thus cluster gear has to be first lowered to the bottom of the case with ship-in-a-bottle trickery. Anothet trick was to just destroy the front bearing; probably not a good idea anymore. That means pushing countershaft out the front. With OD rear access to that is blocked to begin with. During assembly cluster has to be raised without spilling loose bearings and thrust washets. Input shaft also has to be loaded with loose bearings and then meet the mainshaft without losing any. Obviously it’s all doable, just a bit tedious compared to some other designs.
Parts were another thing. 101 different varieties of shafts, splines, gears. For parts matching, definitely not an “it’s just a 350” transmission.
From Paul’s description, my speculation on failure analysis is that it started with a worn pocket (or pilot) bearing between input and main shaft. As bearing wear progressed it allowed more and more misalignment between cluster gear and mainshaft, thus gear tooth engagement began to rise away from ideal contact at gear tooth root. With a hard pull in 2nd that overloaded poor contact gearset and it fractured a tooth. It was all downhill from there.
Third still worked because it’s direct through-drive and damaged gears were not in play.
Punchline, it’s going to need a lot of parts.
I agree with Jim Dandy’s diagnosis, and Paul may have stumbled across the root cause in a earlier posting-
Paul’s (Previous) Transmission Posting
In that posting, Paul included a picture that appeared to be pocket bearing rollers. Since they could not have worked free after assembly, I suspect they fell into the sump during assembly and remained there for a number of years. That would increase the “slop” between the input and main shafts, leading to the failure JimDandy describes.
I also agree with his assessment that it’s going to require a lot of parts- Replacing the transmission with a used unit is probably the cheapest choice, especially since R & R labor is baked into any repair.
I knew I could count on you and Jim for the best diagnosis. Thanks.
And it sounds spot-on. Which is going to be very helpful in my deliberations. Rebuilding it myself is sounding a bit too much for me. So finding a direct replacement is probably the best option, or possibly a swap.
I really don’t have the time or inclination for a complicated project, so a direct swap sounds the best right now. I had a Ford three-speed in it, but it died too, and I had the T-85 swapped in by an old school transmission guy. I don’t even know exactly from what car or truck it came from. So finding the right parts alone would be a real challenge.
I had to cut the driveshaft and have it balanced to fit the longer T-85/OD. I’m not eager to have to undo that for a Ford 3-speed, whose gear ratios I’m not wild about. Might as well go with a toploader four speed at that point.
And I’m wary about the Mazda 5 speed, in part because I really don’t want to have to put in a hydraulic clutch.
But I will ponder some more…
If you do go with the 3sp as the expedient way to get the truck back to work I’d see if you can get a stock driveshaft with it. Not only will it bolt in, if you get it from the right truck it will probably be more cost effective than having your existing driveshaft extended back to its old length. Ditto for the T-18 or NP435 swap.
That way you can keep your existing drive shaft and if you come across a good, compatible T-85 you can go back to your preferred set up w/o more driveshaft surgery.
The outrage of a sixty year old machine that has been frequently over burdened breaking down! Doesn’t Ford know how to build a quality product!
It sounds like you knew it was coming. I’ve had several auto trans go bad on me over the years. I only had one manual trans failure. It was on my ’77 Harley XLCR, it lost third gear as I was accelerating onto the freeway. Motorcycle transmissions are in constant engagement and use sliding gears with engagement dogs on the side. I pulled the clutch and transmission out and replaced the gear using a salvaged gear from a used parts guy. I replaced some of the thrust washers that I obtained from the dealer. I’d never fixed a transmission before, but it came out fine. I kept the bike for another fifteen years and over 50,000 miles.
Your transmission is more complicated but I bet you can rebuild it. Good luck.
When the Hydramatic failed on our ’56 Olds in the early 80’s, the Olds dealer brought a guy out of retirement to work on it. After my sister gave it a few more small dents, it ended up in Grandma’s back yard until Dad sold it in ’92 for $50 to a teenager who saw it from the street.
I have just enough automotive knowledge to be dangerous I’ve been told on occasion but what about a complete driveline swap? It might be easier and possibly cheaper in the long run to maybe go with a later model 300-6 and tranny unit?
My dad ( who was a mechanic ) did that a lot. Whether true or not his comment was it always seemed to work better if it went in as a unit and he said a lot of times it was easier than swapping trannies.
Whatever you decide Paul may it give you the best value and the least amount of grief for your buck.
Bill
It’s a CC mascot! It simply must live on. I join in hoping for the best outcome.
One other option is to stick a cab over camper in it find a place to park it and rent it out as an Air B&B. That way it can continue working for you even if it can’t move under its own power.
Studebaker used BW boxes w O/D for years. There are a few for sale over on the Studebaker Forum. The basic box on the BW’s was the same for the series, the difference being in input shaft and the tail shaft which you already have. They might be able to direct you to parts, they are much more into networking parts sources than other forums. It might be worth a shot.
I vote for take it apart and see whatcha got .
During my used car lot / farm / junkyard days I overhauled a lot of “junk” manual gear boxes by getting new bearings, seals, gaskets and synchronizer rings then sorting through other gear boxes for necessary gears, shafts and so on .
Some where there’s *just* what you need sitting unwanted .
Isn’t there a serial number on it somewhere that you can decode to discern what it’s from and thereby the specific version ? .
Surely you have or can easily build a weather tight work shop with bench to work on…
-Nate
The T-85-N with overdrive was used in Ford trucks starting in 1965 and up. According to a Ford parts guy it was last used in 1971 in these trucks making the transmission rare and the parts extremely rare. I see guys on the forum offering to buy any parts anybody might have laying around. The electrical components of the overdrive, like the relay, are rarer than hen’s teeth.
Yikes! Perhaps a wide ratio top loader 4-speed swap? Reasonably low 2.78 first gear and should bolt right up to your bell housing. Not sure about the rear trans mount. Probably would need new clutch assembly as well, plus source a Ford (or maybe aftermarket Hurst) shifter from the interwebs. Bingo…an “outlaw” F100!
Should you desire a slightly used 4 speed truck transmission, let me know.
A friend gave me one about 25 years ago out of a 40,000 mile pickup he parted out due to an accident. I believe it is from a ’68 F250 from behind a 300 six ??? I can get you the numbers off the case if you need it to verify fitment. It sits in my dry barn as we speak….. delivery to around the middle of MT in October (have to attend a wedding) if it will help you out in any way.
You tell me what it’s worth and I am good with that ….. (-;
Well, that’s a bummer, Paul, but you’ve got plenty of options from reading through every one else’s comments. Unlike my situation when the rear end in my ’69 gave out, your truck fits your use case perfectly and it makes complete sense to repair. I occasionally have a pang of regret over getting rid of mine…
Sad to hear of your busted tranny! Let’s hope the CC Exemplar can get back on the road soon; you’ve received lots of helpful advice.
I was thinking just the other day that if my ’98 Frontier makes it to 55 years of age, it’ll be 2053 and I’ll be 101 — HA!
Oh, come on!
If you’re driving a classic car, $1000-2500 for maintenance is peanuts!
Just give it what it deserves and get the thing on the road again!
Sorry to hear that. The old truck has served you well, and I feel your pain.
On the bright side, you could have used the flatbed to temporarily give your F100 dumping capability to get the stones out without lots of shoveling.
I’ve never attempted transmission work, and though I like the idea of taking one apart to get a personal feel for how it works, I am not eager to actually repair one.
It’s too bad you are so far away ( I’m on the East coast), for I have a 68 F100 parts truck with a T-18 toploader and driveshaft that I don’t need.
Did you look at this one? Rebuilt T85 for $1500 in WA
http://www.2040-parts.com/borg-warner-t-85-3-speed-with-r11-o-d-1965-69-ford-f100-rebuilt-1-year-warranty-i1372287/
Don’t know if that website is legit or just regurgitates old out of date ads
The latter, in my experience. Some kind of clickbait/linkbait thing.
I’ve found a T-85 in CA for $350. Working out the details…
I can deliver that low mileage 4 speed to Pony, MT. for half that amount…..
if interested, just say the word. It even comes with the lever and knob, both o.e. and still in the trans.
mrgreenjeans
Thank you. it’s a generous offer. But I prefer the 3 speed with overdrive, and it will be easier to install than a 4 speed. In fact, the four speed requires a different (higher) floor panel and there would be other significant changes. I’m sure the drive shaft would need to be a different length.
Wow I thought ol yella would go forever, I’d yank the trans and have a look see or get one the same and keep the old one for parts and references.
So it’s a stock ’66 F100. 240 6cylinder, 3 on the tree. Twin I beam and drum brakes all around?
A modern 5 speed OD trans would be so much better than the current trans or any old school 4 speed truck trans.
T-5 or one of the Tremec options.
It likely has 4:10 rear gears so lack of an overdrive is no fun on the highway.
Installing the trans would not be difficult but the clutch actuation, cable or hydraulic would be finicky to modify and install.
https://americanpowertrain.com/shop/transmission-kits/1967-79-ford-f-100-5-speed-pro-fit-kit/
https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop/solutions/ford-conversion-solutions/t5-5-speed/ford-truck-2wd-4wd-divorced-transfer-case-5-6-speed-conversions/
if the truck is reasonably rust free, it is worth a fair bit and desirable to the hot rodder market.
It has a 3.70:1 rear axle ratio. And it has a three speed with overdrive, so the engine turns at 1900 rpm at 60 mph.
That’s why I’m going to replace it with another transmission of the same kind.
It’s value to the hot rod market is immaterial to me.
Paul, since you’re such a proponent of the EVs, it’s time to convert your truck to the electric powertrain!
I’m still out shaking the bushes looking for Paul’s parts. lol
By chance I stumbled into a bunch of NOS Ford transmission gears at a random yard sale. So they’re out there… somewhere.
I’ll try a smaller version of that image.
@ JimDandy ;
God I love yard / tag sales .
Quite often I’d go back later and offer rock bottom prices because they so often have no idea what the crap Grandpa held onto so long actually is….
When I die I bet my stuff will go to the dump .
Oh, well .
-Nate