It’s a tradition here for me to share with you my various building projects over the years. Last summer my younger son Will was moving back to Eugene, and needed a roof over his head. He really needed a place of his own, so I decided the best thing was for us to build him a little tiny house of sorts, located in the center of a cluster of eight rental houses. It had been an old storage shed from the 1940s and was rotting, so down it went and this went up, on its slab foundation (of sorts).
He moved in this spring just as the cherry trees were blooming.
I wrote up the first installment here, about tearing the old shed down after determinate that it was beyond trying to fix up.
It was right about the time I was going to start converting my van, but first things first. Here the sills are going down. I drilled into the old slab and epoxied in hold-down bolts, so when The Really Big One hits, this little shed will hopefully still be attached to its floor. The dimensions are about 13′ x 22′.
The plan was to build a very basic shed roof structure with a wall high enough on one side for a platform bed. I like shed roofs anyway, as they’re quick, simple and easy.
I obviously didn’t take any more pictures of the framing from the outside. The siding is Hardi Board, a cementious product that has become extremely popular for siding. In this case, it was 4×8 sheets with battens of the same material. It makes for an extremely durable shell, and holds paint much longer than wood, since it doesn’t expand and contract with the seasons. I had a few sheets and all the batts, as well as the red paint left over from my previous house building project.
The roof is basic Delta Rib galvanized steel barn roof panels, which is cheap, durable and goes down super quickly. The two of us lifted up the panels and screwed it down in about 2.5 hours. It’s my preferred roof product.
Utilities are “borrowed” from the rental house closest to it, and technically on the same lot. I rented a trencher, and the one on the left is for the electric, the center is for the water (blue PEX line), and the white sewer can be seen stubbed out of the side of the foundation, after I had a guy drill the hole.
The electric is just one 240 volt 30 amp circuit tapped off the breaker box on that house. I put a little private electric meter on the new shed, and Will reimburses them for the utilities used (peanuts).
The sewer was a bit more problematic. Amazingly, there was just exactly the minimum slope (1/8″ per foot) from where I could tap into it under the green house to just above the slab in the new shed. I knew I’d have to raise the floor of the new bathroom, but that’s not a big deal. Needless to say, having a sewer like this at just below ground level, even after I covered it up with another bigger pipe and some dirt and a deck is not exactly kosher. But it works fine. If we get a really cold snap, warm water from the shower will keep it from freezing up. It’s a short run.
Here’s the drain lines for the raised floor bath (shower at front, toilet at rear) as well as a line to a sink just outside the bath to the right. It took a bit of head-scratching to figure this all out, but it’s kind of a fun puzzle. And it all works great. A plywood floor covered this.
Water lines are 1/2 PEX, which are the greatest thing to happen to plumbing since plastic glued sewer lines came along. It’s so easy now. That red line is not hot water; it’s a 3/4″ stub to a hose bib. I didn’t have any blue 3/4″ PEX.
I’ve learned to photograph every bit of the interior walls after plumbing and electric is in and before they’re closed up. It’s been very handy once or twice.
A 15 amp 240V heater is the biggest draw on the electric, but since the shed is well insulated, it does not take much to keep it cozy.
This picture of the sub panel is fuzzy. There’s also a 15A 110V water heater, and a couple of 15A outlet and light circuits. The total potential maximum draw is greater than the 30 amps max, but the likelihood of that happening is very slim. And it would just flip the main breaker.
The shed roof joists are 2×10, 24″ on center. In addition to stuffing its bays with high density fiberglass insulation, I also added an inch of rigid foil-faced insulation on the bottom, which meant that sheet rock had to be hung with 3″ screws. But it makes for a very well insulated roof.
I sneaked a few interior shots one day after he had moved in. I didn’t take pictures, but I laid down one inch of pink rigid insulation over the concrete slab floor, than I created a floating layer of 1/2″ OSB plywood over it, by attaching them to each other with little tabs of sheet metal and screws. My original plan was to finish the OSB, as I have done before, but it came out a bit wonky due to the uneven slab, and Will preferred something that looked a bit more “normal”. I got some cheap Chinese vinyl plank flooring on sale for just a little over a dollar per square foot, and so we put that down over it. Its flexibility evened out some of the unevenness of that OSB subfloor, and it is waterproof, tough, and easy to keep clean.
The kitchen is composed of a few of the cheapest unfinished cabinets and a pre-formed laminate countertop. That’s an RV cooktop which is hooked to a propane bottle on the outside. Underneath the cooktop is the water heater.
The platform bed and ladder-stairs are just framing lumber.
Yes, he’s got a shoe fetish. Got it from his mother. 🙂
That’s the bathroom, obviously. I didn’t take pictures, but it just has a one-piece fiberglass shower enclosure and a toilet.
Will wanted it to look “stealth”, so a shed door I had around went back on its front side.
The propane bottle and a spare reside in their own little shed.
The composite decking is screwed to pressure treated 4×4 sleepers just laid down level on the bed of gravel, and steps up to just barely clear (and cover) the sewer line.
That’s it. Materials cost about $7-8k. That’s about $28 per square foot. Hard to beat that for a home to call your own, even if it is small.
Meanwhile, my van conversion is really coming along, and I’m on the home stretch. I’ve been very busy with the rather complicated plumbing setup, which includes a mini-tub and a hot water heater just beyond it, which gets heated by the engine’s 195 degree coolant via a heat exchanger in the tank whenever one drives a bit. We took it out for a 15 minutes spin, and after we stopped, we had hot water coming out of the faucet. Yes! The water can also be heated by an electric element powered by the batteries and inverter. I’m getting ahead of myself, but I will do a very detailed and comprehensive write-up after it’s done.
I must say, it’s been very challenging, and has taken longer than I expected. Although the basic elements appear to be sort-of, somewhat similar to a house, almost everything is actually very different, from the sequencing to the size and scale and almost all the materials. And much of it is all-new to me, like the electric system, with its batteries and solar panel and both 12v and 110v systems. I’ve had to really stretch and figure out most of it as I went along, unlike a house which I can do practically blind-folded now. But the challenge has kept it interesting, and I’m pretty pleased with how it’s coming out. I hope to be able to take it out for an actual camping trip very soon, minus the cabinet drawers, which I’ve never done before and can wait until winter.
Very tidy work, and a great option for someone looking to get out of the folks house-
I take it the shed door is decorative, rather than functional?
Actually (and thankfully) he’s not lived under our roof since he turned 18. 🙂
It was functional right up until the end, when we filled in the back side with a few studs, insulation and drywall. But it could easily be made functional again.
Nice, interestingly I’ve recently been helping a friend build her own tiny house and did much of the wiring for her. She’s into it about $6k so far but has a few more things to buy before it is done and she can move in and put her big house up for sale.
Looks great! Looking forward to seeing more of the van
»Applause«
I am envious, sir, of your skill and talent.
Also, “cementious” is the word of the day—and its odds look pretty good for tomorrow, as well.
How do you keep down the steel-roof noise?
The noisy steel roof myth is just that. Yes, if you’re in a barn during a heavy rain, you can hear it, and quite well. But that’s what insulation and sheetrock are for. It totally muffles the sound.
Steel roofs are very common in parts of the West, most especially in snow country, as it slides off without damage. But they’re fairly popular here too, as there’s no more moss to deal with, and it lasts 60-100 years, or more.
I guess my only experience is with completely uninsulated ones (e.g., pole barn).
What my friend did with hers and it is quite common around here in vaulted ceiling roofs is a layer, 2″ IIRC, of the rigid foam insulation on top of the roof deck and under the metal. Then of course the typical insulation between the joists and sheet rock to cover. The insulation decouples the metal from the deck, making for a massive reduction in noise transmission.
That is the better way to do it. This was just more expedient, especially as we got that roof up just a day or two before the taps opened up for the season. And I hadn’t really decided then just how much insulation we were going to do.There was already R30 in the bays. One of the advantages of doing it this way is that I didn’t have to even consider ventilating the top of the bays, which is technically required by code. the foil-faced rigid (taped with foil) ensures that no water vapor is going to rise into those cavities. I think ventilating a cathedral roof is kinda dumb, considering how easy it is to create a vapor barrier. But obviously without that barrier, it could lead to condensation under the roof sheathing.
Of course that’s not an issue either if you have 2″ of rigid on top. I assume you don’t have to ventilate under those circumstances.
Well according to her research putting the rigid foam on the exterior controls the temp enough by itself that condensation isn’t a problem in our climate. A quick look at my state code they do list no need for a vapor barrier, on walls, when you have a min R5 or R7.5 on the outside depending on zone but a max of R21 on the inside.
Will’s place looks great. Did you run a cable line into the house for him, or does he just use WiFi?
WiFi
I really like the tiny house thing. But I’m married so I just bought a 2 story condo. First time I’ve lived in a place with two floors. It’s nice, though. Never thought I’d enjoy the space.
Very nice! I have been wanting to build a shed-roof shed as my first real construction project … some day. My summer project was an outdoor shower with redwood and corrugated galvanized enclosure. Finally finished and I’m pretty happy with it given my limited skills. I didn’t use PEX as I need quite a few tight ells and most of the piping is visible and I didn’t really want visible plastic pipe So I used 1/2” copper and SharkBite fittings, since my copper sweat soldering results are usually poor. The SharkBite fittings weren’t cheap but went together easily with no leaks.
Yes, the Shark Bite fittings are very handy. They’ve been a real time saver in some difficult repair situations. My copper sweating skills are marginally adequate. The big problem is if there’s any water still in the line, but that’s not an issue with new construction. But I avoid copper now.
PEX has one other great advantage over copper, next to no scrap value so junkies don’t steal it.
Our first house, built and purchased in 1986, made extensive use of flexible tubing for the water lines. For the life of me I can’t remember if it was PEX or some other alternative to PVC. I do know that we (and many others) had a lot of trouble with this pipe, due to sudden fractures. The first couple of times this happened it was the supply line to the water heater; this was in the garage and no real issue other than mopping up the water. Other people weren’t so lucky and we were told it was a matter of time before we experienced a failure somewhere in the house. There was at least one class action lawsuit brought against Shell Oil, which had either developed this particular pipe or purchased the company that did. We became a party to this lawsuit and, due to a non-related issue that caused extensive water damage to our house, were able to get the plastic pipe replaced (with copper) while much of the drywall and first floor ceiling were being replaced. As I said, I don’t remember if the old plastic pipe was PEX or something else; in any case I’m sure that 30 years later the manufacturers have improved the product and have eliminated this issue.
That was polybutylene. Whole different ball game. Banned in the US. Lots of law suits.
The problem was primarily the typical high chlorine levels in US water supplies that made the fittings used with it more brittle. The tubing by itself performs quite well.
PEX is a completely different plastic, essentially polyethylene,cross-linked for strength.
Yes, polybutylene. Good to know that it is no longer used.
From friends who had their houses replumbed as a result of the lawsuit it was the hot water pipes that were prone to the pinholes. They would only replumb if you had multiple leaks. There were time limits and if you fell outside the limits tough noogies. Personally I had the cardboard siding lawsuit with my house. My folks had the Dryvit stucco lawsuit with their house. I don’t know how a company survives a nationwide lawsuit like that.
Great stuff, I love these articles Paul. A really interesting look at something I never developed the abilities for.
Those water & sewer lines do make me smile though, If I did that here it would be all over by the first week of January 🙂 but I guess it works there.
I hope it’s a good launch pad for the next phase of Will’s life. Our own 17 y/o son is out of the house now too, he does not text or call his momma enough..
I would totally live in that, but I don’t have a father who knows how to sneak something like that around the building inspectors 🙂
We sold our mid-century multi-level 3 bed/2 bath 1600 sq. ft. house last year and moved into a 2 bed/1.5 bath 847 sq. ft. house.
Even at one year in, we’re still getting used to it all. But, our version of a tiny house is growing on me and I’m liking it more every day.
I have a question about the RV water heater. Does it have some way to regulate the temp when it is heated by the coolant, or does it have a built in tempering valve?
Concerning the tiny house and its heat source, did you consider the King Pic-A-Watt? I’ve used those in the past and the beauty of them is depending on which wires you connect you get different outputs. For example the 120v unit can go from 250w to 1500w in 250w steps. Nice way to size it to the needs and dial it in to the actual needs.
Yes, it has a tempering valve (adjustable) so that the hot water coming out is mixed with cold water for an appropriate temperature.
It is a Pic-A-Watt, IIRC. I use Kings almost exclusively. Yes, that feature is handy. Built up your way.
Cool to see the update, Paul.
My grand staircase is calling, today it’s more trim and maybe start on the upper handrail. Still to come, a brief (at least that’s what I keep telling myself) reno on the living room, finish some other house details and then to work on my ’57 Handyman.
Nice project – congratulations!
Good for you to have such a talent Paul. My father never taught me carpentry skills which would have been beneficial later in life. However, my late father-in-law taught my wife a lot of skills and is she ever good! At least I learned some beneficial mechanical skills with all the cars we owned over the years.
Your feature brought to mind the growing popularity of small houses. Up here, Laneway homes or garage houses are becoming popular along with mother-in-law suites which is what your little house reminds me of. Mrs. M and I will eventually downsize to a laneway home with our oldest daughter and her family in Calgary. The plan is to live in something no more than 900 sq. ft. after my wife retires.
The man knows his cars—and so much more. Paul, I envy your design/execution ability, and know that anyone who’d land at CC searching the phrase “tiny house” would learn lots from today’s installment. Thanks for sharing, and all your candor.
[If only the purchaser of a home got photos of what’s inside the walls—what a dream that’d be!]
The van’s heat exchanger thing hadn’t occurred to me, but that’s a cool way to make use of the combustion heat.
What a fun project! Love the way it turned out, especially the ‘stealth’ nature. I, too, am a fan of hardi-board, which we used to reside our 100 year-old farmhouse.
I’ll echo DougD’s comment about frost line – I’ve had to replace both the main power feed as well as water lines from the well, and we went 48″ deep. When we lived in Georgia, I dug a 30′ trench (with a mattock) for a grey-water drain line from the garage sink, and only had to go 12″ deep.
I just completed a dining room cabinet, and find I enjoy making the cabinet drawers more than building the carcass. Here’s the cabinet under construction…
And as installed…
That is beautiful. Looks very period authentic.
I’ve never done any cabinetry, so this is my first plunge.I tend to be perpetually in a bit of a hurry, so really slowing down to build fine cabinetry would be a challenge for me. The ones in the van are pretty crude, but then it’s not for showing off; it’s for camping.
That really reminds me of a little cabin I stayed in in a campground in Norway, near Nordkapp. Except that place was much more well worn, and didn’t have its own bathroom. The choice of exterior colors in particular gives it a very Scandinavian look. And the interior really reminds me of one of those “living in 300 square feet” displays at IKEA.
Well done. Will has a great little home. I was a wood shop dropout, no self respecting bird would reside in the one I tried to build.
The van is coming along well, a lot more elaborate then I imagined. Looking forward to the write up on this.
Great work! Now that the kids are out of the house downsizing is starting to look attractive to me. I’m not sure that Mrs. JPC agrees with me.
Looking forward to seeing the completed camper project.
When we bought our house here in Eugene, it was a bit on the small side, especially so for modern standards. But I was thinking ahead! 🙂
I’ve turned the kids’ former rumpus room into a guest suite that’s now listed on AirBnB:
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/22754583?adults=1&children=0&infants=0&toddlers=0
Rumpus room??!! That’s a word I haven’t heard since you could buy a new Valiant. Buy one in the US, I should add.
Great job Paul!
Wow Paul! Great work! This is what I want to do in my own backyard….dreams!
Always fascinating and informative to see how and what you’ve been building Paul, thanks. I was glad to see your camper’s solar-electric system when it was still out in the open.
When I was much younger I had the urge, but not the time or skill, to build my own small house. Back then there was all sorts of experimentation with domes, underground structures, anything but a wood-and-shingled 2 bedroom ranch with a mortgage. Now this would be the way to go. $8K plus labor is incredibly cost-effective.
If you ever retire, somebody should make you the director of a tiny houses program for the homeless.
PS: It’s a pretty great dad who builds a house for his son.
I remember those experimental-house days too. There was one featured in National Geographic, I think, made entirely of hardened foam. Very cozy, with niches carved out for beds, bookcases, and the like. Unfortunately, the article mentioned it wasn ‘t fireproof, which didn’t bother me as a kid but is cringe-inspiring now. Sometimes those building codes are necessary….
Nice house. I particularly like the industrial light fixtures.
Thanking for sharing insight into this. It is a really neat build and everything a single person needs.
Nicely done; you’re a good dad.
I will admit to feeling a bit tired just looking at this. I do admire your energy, not to mention skill.
Here’s an oblique car connection. Hardi board is made by James Hardie industries, a firm founded here in Melbourne 100-odd years ago. For many years, Australia’s premier yearly motor race at the very hairy Bathurst raceway, was sponsored by the firm. The James Hardie 1000 (or Hardie-Ferrodo 1000, their brakes subsidiary) still pops into my head every time I hear of the contest. The power of sponsorship.
The name is also memorable for another reason. Hardies made asbestos products for a good 70 years, and Australian housing from right across that time is loaded with it, bathroom walls, underlay, pipes, lagging, very often clad entirely (incl roof) in the stuff. Thousands have died, and will for many years yet. The company fought claims hard, despite clear evidence of knowledge years earlier. Ultimately, they established a fund in the late ’90’s to pay for all legacy claims, telling govt and the Stock Exchange it was sufficiently funded, which allowed them to move other assets and the business itself to the Netherlands (in a failed tax minimization move). The promise was found to be a deliberate lie in 2009, by which time the company had entirely decamped to the Netherlands (and presently Ireland). The directors and chairwoman were punished, with monetary penalties and 5-year bans on being directors. How awful for them. All are back in other such positions now. The entire progress of the episode was callous criminality on a colossal scale, not able to be punished in any way adequately against the very rich at the top.
The current products aren’t asbestos-based, ofcourse, so they won’t kill your son (which, as a father & fallible human, I’m sure you have at some time or other wished to do!).
Interesting. I kind of wondered where JH originated.
Asbestos has a long and nasty history in this country, and once large companies like Manning and some others had to make massive payments for decades. Folks are still winning huge judgments today. It was of course once a huge industry everywhere, and for a long time no one knew its dangers, although that was probably downplayed for some time after early knowledge came out.
The question of how these legacy liabilities should be handled going forward is always a thorny one.
Loose asbestos is a bad thing but fired asbestos tiles? Not so much. Have lived in houses w/exterior fired asbestos tiles, no problems, even cut those same tiles – shear them like glass? No problems. Grind them & the resulting dust? Major Problems (I sheared mine, really tough on utility knives but they were cheap, cheap, cheap. Had to steal replacement ti,es however)
What a nice utilitarian space. Everything you need, nothing you don’t. I’m quite envious. The only thing I miss is not having a smiling Will in one of the photos of his new abode.
Nice house.
I think for a lot of folks, this size home would work perfectly.
What was the reason for the industrial style light fixtures?
I used 9 inch flush lights for my ceiling lights
I just discovered the niceness of LED lighting. It does not flicker like some of the CFLs I have owned
I’m also slowly switching out CFLs for LEDs, and all of my recessed lights now have them. In addition to coming up to full brightness almost immediately after being turned on, in retrofitted recessed applications there is the advantage of being able to insulate right up to and over the fixture’s attic housing. With incandescent bulbs there is the problem is heat, and if I’m not mistaken most recessed fixture housings have a thermocoupler of sorts in them to cut off the power when things heat up.
As for industrial fixtures, I used outdoor fixtures in my bathrooms because they were inexpensive, water resistant and just plain look cool. 🙂
LEDs don’t generate heat out of the front like incandescent bulbs, but they do generate some heat out of the back.
I like the looks of them. And they’re cheap and rugged. Been using them for years. I don’t like flush ceiling lights.
Been using LEDs for some time now.