After a restful week of being sequestered (house-sitting) on a hilltop overlooking the Pacific in Half Moon Bay (30 miles south of SF) without an internet connection, it was time to head home again. The weather was warm and sunny, so we decided to make a road trip out of it instead of the straight shot up I5.
Over the decades, we’ve done both 101 and Hwy 1 numerous times, so we decided to mix them up a bit, as well as try a different way back inland. We took 101 to Cloverdale, then 128, which winds itself in a north-westerly direction out to the coast via Booneville. That put us on Hwy 1, just south of Mendocino. Now if you’re thinking I stopped repeatedly for shots of one of the most magnificent stretches of road in the country, you’re wrong. The camera never came out until we hit Fort Bragg, for this very old Corolla wagon. That’s just how I roll.
Truth is, I didn’t shoot a single car in the Bay Area except this two-tone Camry on a trail head. And it’s not exactly all that interesting. Frankly, I was a bit burned out, and just tuned out cars for the most part. The Bay Area is CC Nirvana, but you have to go looking a bit, and be in the right parts of town. The cars on the freeways are very predictable and boring, a sea of CUVs, Lexii, BMWs, Toyotas, etc. Very different than from Eugene, needless to say.
So I saved my precious pixels for other things, like these Elephant Seals snoozing on the beach at Año Nuevo. Snoozing is not quite the right word, as these large members of the pinniped family spend up to three and a half months out of the water here breeding and calving without eating or drinking a thing (except for the rich milk the calves feed on, of course). Fat is a very efficient storage medium of both nutrients and water.
But when I came up on this circa-1974 Corolla (CC here), I knew we were getting back to familiar territory. These have become quite rare on the road, and I noticed it had been crudely repainted at least once or twice, in an effort to keep the beach-town surface rust at bay.
Just a few blocks later, I came across another unlikely survivor, an Alfa Romeo Milano/75, driven by an older woman, no less. I’ve shot one in Eugene, but like so many others, haven’t given it its day in the CC spotlight yet.
We spent the night in Eureka, and saw some of the same cars that Laurence Jones shot there a while back. He didn’t shoot this ’61 Falcon, in a delicious mint green.
Needless to say, the sunshine had given way to fog by then. Actually, in the spring and fall, coastal fog is not very common, as it usually saves itself for the high summer, when all the tourists flock to the California Coast: Gotcha’! Smart visitors come anytime other than July and August, when the fog rolls in predictably, along with a chilly breeze. As Mark Twain said: ‘The coldest winter I ever spent was the summer in San Francisco”. A bit of an exaggeration, but consider the source.
It was getting dark as we finished our walk through Old Town Eureka down by the docks, where there were mountains of crab pots along with a ’63 Fairlane showing the typical signs of living near (but not too near) the ocean.
In the morning, we headed over to the Blue Ox Millworks and Museum (separate post coming soon). These two old toughs are still at work, it appears.
Afterwards, we headed across Humboldt Bay to Arcata, the “greenest” little town in the land. Stephanie spent her formative years here, where her father was an English Lit prof at Humboldt State University. Couldn’t help but notice the delivery bike on this Volvo wagon.
We stopped in at the Co-op for some sandwiches for the road, and what is there in the parking lot? Two yaks, out for a stroll with their “herder”. All to often, I find myself saying “only in Eugene”; but even this I wouldn’t expect to see there. So I have to revert to “only in Arcata”. And in the parking lot of the Co-op, of course.
image: inn-california.com
From Arcata, we took Hwy 299 to Willow Creek, and from there followed the Klamath River on Hwy 96. For some 100 miles, this deserted road winds and twists along whichever side of the rugged Klamath was more hospitable to the builders who managed to carve out this highway. A superb driving road, which give one’s arms a good workout. Something a bit sportier than Stephanie’s automatic Forester would have been quite welcome here. Like a…Lamborghini, perhaps?
Ironically, the first car to catch my notice after crossing the Oregon state line was this Lamborghini. This was in Medford, and it did have Washington dealer plates, so I suppose it wasn’t strictly a local car.
Makes a rather dramatic contrast to the tall and narrow SUV ahead of it. In the Bay Area, I wouldn’t have even given it a second glance. There’s a Lambo dealer in downtown Los Gatos, where we used to live. Shortly later, it gave a loud whoosh and shot off before it pulled out at an exit. Have fun with your toy!
So that’s the end of my rather disjointed road trip post. Sorry about the lack of shots from Hwy 1; I never was big on shooting scenery. Old Corollas; that’s another thing.
I thought I’d leave you with a nice shot of the coast by someone else, and it turns out to be one by Chuck Goolsbee, an occasional CC reader. He stopped by our house in the summer of 2009 just as he and his son were heading south for a roadtrip in his XK-E, and his write-up and pictures can be found here. Now there’s a proper car for Hw1, as long as the fog stays away.
I’d take either the Ford pickup or the Corolla wagon for a daily driver. Both look like they still earn their keep and will be doing so for a good while yet. Still, though….love the Jag. Nothing like saving the best for last.
That unicorn Milano could very well be the best kept example left in the states!
Weird styling on that, with the character line turning upward at the C pillar along with seemingly everything else.
I am eternally nostalgic for that drive up the California and Oregon coast so can only say “thanks for the memory.” Last time I was in Arcata I found this older relative of my avatar being gassed up …
The SUV in front of the Lamborghini looks like a late model Mitsubishi Montero, not a Suzuki. Anyway, good photos!
Lime green?
The color police say Bermuda Green.
Stephanie called it Mint Green, and I’ve changed it to that. Bermuda Green…hmm.
I’ll take that Falcon,cool cars aren’t all big block muscle cars or even V8s.All the glamour of an American car without the bulk or thirst,what my Dad called honest cars.
Besides the paint and changes in suspension, the trim on that 1961 Falcon appears to be a custom job. I don’t think the lower rear fender chrome shield was available until 1962. Also, the car has the deluxe chrome trim around the windows but is missing the chrome on the sides. A nice reminder of what a good-looking car the Falcon is, especially lowered. Cool find!
I guess only in California can one find someone walking their Yaks! 🙂
Haven’t seen a Ford Pickup of this vintage on the streets in over 40 years now. Great catch and nice road trip!
My sister-in-law lives in Santa Cruz, and whenever we go out to visit (from the Northeast) I always see lots of cool old cars.
I’m glad you had a nice trip. You’re right, Hwy 96 is a great driving road. My wife and I made the Grants Pass-Happy Camp-Cave Junction loop on our motorcycles a few years ago. If you’re on a cycle, make sure you bring a credit card, the gas station at Happy Camp is self-serve, no attendant.
That’s almost worth the trip just to pump my own damn gas.
/googles it
Oh, it’s in California. No wonder.
/sometimes I HATE Oregon
I want to give a hug to the seals and the Falcon…the yaks just make me want to hold my nose.
From wikipedia: Contrary to popular belief, yak and their manure have little to no detectable odor
I petted them, and there was no residual smell, so it must be mostly true. I didn’t have a chance to test that on the manure, though.
You missed a great chance there. Had you taken another path here, you could have compared some absolutely awful car to yak manure, and you would have had the indisputable firsthand experience to back it up. 🙂
We got to do a portion of the trip a few years back–visited the in-laws in Paradise, CA, then went out to the coast on SR 20 to just south of Ft. Bragg. The northern part of SR 1 isn’t much fun when you are towing a tent trailer, but the rest of the view is wonderful. Lots of the variations of the Santa Cruz style house/truck near Arcata.
Nitpick: it’s “Klamath”. “Kalamath” is a street in Denver… 🙂
There’s a “Willamette” street in Colorado Springs but the locals pronounce it “will-uh-MET”. Horrible town…
Duh! Fixed.
Love that Corolla wagon.
I’m about due for a trip down to Bandon. I’ll see what I can find.
Paul,
Ever been to Shelter Cove? It’s on the Lost Coast, in the King Range. A bit off the beaten path, where the terrain defeated efforts to continue Highway 1 further north. It’s much easier to reach via small airplane, as there is basically one road in and out.
Another fantastic drive I can recommend is CA-36 from US101 just south of Fortuna east to Red Bluff. Not long after you get on that road, you’ll see a “winding road next 110 miles” or something like that. The road starts off hanging off the sides of mountains to big rolling hills with nothing but lonely ranches. I think I only saw one gas station the whole way.
A couple of times; camped nearby in the Lost Coast and hiked there. And the road through Petrolia up to Ferndale is also one of our favorites. Spectacular views of the ocean from the high headlands.
Never have taken 36; but from the map it looks another winner. That goes on the “To Drive” list.
Mark Twain was right. In 1980 I had stint in SF. On June 5th I decided to take in a Giants game at Candlestick. My apartment was on Bay and Stockton, Fisherman’s Wharf and the fog was so thick that you could cut it with a knife. 52 degrees F (11 C), so I decided to take my goose down parka with me, but I wouldn’t wear it unless conditions demanded. I didn’t want to look like a tourist. At that time Giants home games were attracting 3500 or less patrons per game. I was able to park close to the ticket gate and noticed than fans were showing up in parkas, gloves, and stadium blankets. I put my parka on. I had a seat on the right field side of the field, in line with the bay, and the wind. There were no windbreaks at the stadium. I froze my ass off and left by the seventh inning. Later I confined my baseball gazing to the Oakland As. Similar attendance figures but much warmer.
June 5th is my birthday. It rains on it like clockwork every 4 years here. Well, actually the last 2 it has….
Love the Falcon and the Fairlane. That two tone Camry is pretty bad, No.1 rule of two toning is the darker color goes on the bottom.
The older one next to it looks so much better in so many ways. Around here there seem to be more of those still on the road than any of the newer generations. Just the other day I saw a couple of them as taxis.
Sunday morning extraneous comment. Threads like this are the best tribute to what Paul hath wrought on Curbside: A car site with readers who are disparate (for sure) both in their car tastes, and politically, but no wrangling and hatred, only amicable comments and the thought that one would be privileged to share a beer with any of the folks here.
So different from a certain other site that shall not be named.
On an interesting “political” note, though, before leaving the topic of the North Coast in California, and Arcata in particular, it’s worth mentioning that both of Arcata’s former auto dealerships — Saachi Chevrolet and Isaacson Ford — have been converted into marijuana dispensaries/grow houses!
Astute commentary all around, Brother Angel!
Every time I pass that exit at the Klamath River when I’m going down I-5 I want to try it. One of these times….
Wow, what a place. Looks like you had a week in heaven.
Last fall we took a similar route down to Philo, next to Booneville in the Anderson Valley, for a wedding. That valley is beautifully isolated, with nothing but twisty two-lanes in and out. The locals call route 128 “Dramamine drive”, and it’s true. I got into the curves a bit and Lily needed some pretty bad.
The local scene in Philo is best represented by the sign in our hotel room: “No candles.”
Didja see Bigfoot on route 96?
It’s the house of an old friend of ours. She goes to Hawaii for the month of February, and Stephanie (and I for part of the time) go down and house-sit for her. It’s a tough job, but someone has to do it 🙂
Good story. Lived in Arcata during the 1980s but haven’t been back down there in years. You’ve motivated me to take a road trip this spring.
When I was in high school in Florida back in the early 90’s, my science teacher decided to show us home movies of when he and his brother when on a road trip out west and up the California coast. They did it in 1987 and took his 1986 Olds Calais. I remember being utterly fascinated by all the beautiful scenery! To this day I would love to travel along the Pacific coast. Maybe someday.
California dreaming…
Love the old Corolla very few left here also, The old Falcon is cool we didnt get the 2door flavour but my favourite would be the 63 Compact Fairlane those were good cars and their front end parts fixed the feeble Falcon.
I swear I didn’t catch that Falcon roaming the streets when I was there. Was that Cadillac still for sale (at that inflated $16,995?).
Hoping to take a whole week (or two) in September to do the full coast all the way into Vancouver.
I just caught that lot out of the corner of my eye at the last moment, and decided to keep going. Couldn’t tell if the Caddy was still there.
Maybe you’ll drop in here on the way.