This made me laugh when I found it, because my truck’s brake light switch is jury rigged too, but not quite as bad as this one. I’ll show you mine, and then maybe you’ve got one or two to share with us.
At some point years ago, the brake light switch on the master cylinder went out. I can’t even remember now why I didn’t fix it; maybe it wasn’t in stock, or? Anyway, I grabbed this little universal push-button switch, and secured it to the steering column with a hose clamp. That was about eighteen or twenty years ago. I doubt I’ll ever go back to the real thing now.
The first one certainly is a serious case of field expedient engineering. In the case of your fix that would be considered an upgrade by many since the hydraulically operated switches were never known to be that reliable and usually cause a brake system leak when they fail. The Ford pressure operated switch was used by many MFGs back in the day and used to be on the shelf at a good parts store. I know the one I worked at in the 90’s kept one in stock though personally I only ever sold 1 that I remember. Either way the Delco-Remy pedal operated switch is the way to go for a number of reasons though I wouldn’t recommend using the emergency fail points (insulated crimp) connectors long term as they often are the source of problems. I’ve fixed way to many jury rigged things over the years and connectors like that figure into many of the electrical related ones.
The horn on my MG doesn’t work. I’ve tried tracing the problem but I’m tempted to simply run a new horn and button off the battery.
My wife had an MGB with a kludged patch wire running from the washer pump switch to the pump.
I traced the orignial wiring and discovered the factory harness had a wire running from the fuel gauge sender to the washer pump switch, and from the washer pump motor to the fuel gauge. The circuits used the same wire color, so some worker at the factory lost track of things and flipped the wire paths.
So- Good luck with that!
The “pulse board” controlling the intermittent feature of the front wipers on my Astro also controls the washer system. well, my pulse board isn’t triggering the washer, so I swapped the lines on the front and rear pumps and now the rear washer switch runs the front washer. Of course, it cycles the rear wiper on dry glass ….
Did this exact thing on a Nissan Pathfinder. The rear glass was steep enough for the rear wiper to seem useless anyway.
The combination of lower case “e” when rest of word in caps, the duct tape, the cardboard, the domestic light switch, is only partially mitigated by the arrows indicating switch action.
Alistair
I’m impressed because he did not label the switch “break lights”. It’s a rather common error that drives me bonkers.
Speaking of brakes, our Supper Bettle has a hydralic swich for it’s break’s to.
Smart Ass…
This one is especially ironic for me right now. My truck is stuck sitting in the driveway with no brake lights. I’ve verified the bulbs, the fuses, and that juice is getting through the switch. That leaves “break/short somewhere between the switch and the bulbs”. Oh joy. I’m seriously considering just running new wire from the switch to somewhere near the back of the truck, and then cutting the existing wire and hooking in the new.
Running a new wire would be the way my tecnicians would fix it if the short proves to be too tough to find. Why not? Just wrap it or tape it to the existing harness and it’ll be just fine.
I don’t suppose your technicians are anywhere hear the SF bay area? (Redwood City specifically) I CAN do it, I just don’t WANT to do it.
The shop I took it to walled it for four days, and then tried to sell me an ignition switch…
Just had this issue on my son’s Lumina. does your center brake light work? if you have one (and it does work), I second the nomination of the turn signal switch as the culprit
Year make and model? On vehicles with STT (stop turn tail) bulbs the brake light circuit travels through the turn signal switch which interrupts the side with the turn signal activated. Depending on the exact switch the hazard can also interrupt the brake light circuit. Now if you’ve got a vehicle that has separate turn signal bulbs, usually, but not always, incorporating an orange lens, then the brake lights do not go through the turn signal switch. IF you’ve got the STT combo running a new wire is a good way to mess up a lot of things.
89 F350. The four-way flashers energize the brake light circuit. I know this because they also disengage the cruise control… Turn signals are working, except for the left-front. 4-way and turn signals have separate flasher relays.
The hazard does not disengage the brake light switch from the circuit on that TS switch but it does back feed power to that circuit. The next test is to remove the hazard flasher and apply the brakes. The front turn signals and the turn signal indicators should light up with the brake pedal application. The next step is to follow the wire from the brake light switch to the connector for the TS sw at the base of the steering column and verify the power on the TS side of that connector. If you’ve got power there then it is most likely the switch, but there does exist the possibility that there is a break in that wire inside the column.
Razzafrazzit. My lovingly rebuilt (not by me, I know my limits) headlight door motor has been immobilized by a fritzy 39 year old relay. I am tempted to rig up a hidden doorbell button rather than paying $?????? for a NOS relay.
A relay is pretty much a relay so if you don’t have to have it be 100% factory then you can likely use a universal relay. If you don’t want to cut the factory harness so it could be returned to stock you can remove the terminals from the connector and connect universal terminals and cover the resulting connection with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.
Thanks, Eric. You could end up doing nothing but answering tech questions here if you’re not careful! 🙂
It’s an under-dash unit, below the headlight switch, that would be easy to replace or route around. I would want to track down an actual wiring diagram before I try it, might ask for a repro FSM for Xmas. Right now I’m waiting for the correct, i.e., not the one Whitney sent me, power steering high pressure hose. There’s a place I won’t be doing any jury-rigging.
Try taking your old power steering hose hose to a store that manufactures hydraulic lines. Also unscrew the fitting from the top of the steering box and take that too.
It seems that the OEM hose has one end with a strange angle on the flare, and they don’t make fittings for those, but they should be able to give you a replacement fitting to replace the original one that mates properly with the double-flared end on the hose that they will make.
That was what I found when replacing a power steering hose on a 66 Chrysler anyhow. I did also have an old PS hose from a 73 Chrysler to compare against, but I don’t remember if there was a difference.
Thanks, BOC. I foolishly neglected to take a picture of the old hose before I cut it to get a socket over the pump end nut. (Anyone who could get that rusted thing out with an open wrench is a better man than I.) I do have a part number and a place in Jersey shows a NOS one in stock. There are a couple of common repros that are “correct” for my car but don’t quiiiiiite work, as I’ve learned.
And Eric, I found a diagram on a Dodge Charger forum that shows how to use a generic Bosch for the door motor circuit. Can’t wait ’til you guys get that tech forum going. 🙂
Mercedes Benz? Why did you put hood latch release in the grille? And make it fragile Plastic that turns brittle after 30 years. *SNAP*
And… well, a bent coat hanger fits through the grill slots and around the metal part of the hood latch! CLASSY.
Pieces of aluminum gutter to hold up the exhaust, electric cord to hold on door panels, needing a ballpeen hammer and screwdriver to start a vehicle, duct tape holding on the exterior turn signal indicator….gee, I don’t know about such things!
As noted, a brake-light switch is pretty easy to jury-rig up. The amazing thing was that way back when, engineers couldn’t see the silliness of putting a pressure-switch right in the brake hydraulic fluid circuit.
Long ago, I had a headlight failure in the middle of the night. A hammer opened up the plastic dash of my Chevette; and I hard-wired the headlights (not taillights) with electrical tape.
Saved me a sixty-mile tow in the country, anyway.
More recently…I put an electric radiator fan on my Wrangler and found the thermostatic switch un-installable. So!…I just put a switch on the dash…get stuck in traffic, turn it on.
Worked well enough I left it that way for seven years.
Ha! Had a Saturn SC2 with a goofy thermostat that did the same thing – the electric fan would only run if the A/C was on, and running the A/C would increase the likelihood that the engine would overheat in 110F stop-and-go Dallas traffic…so, nothing a little toggle switch can’t fix.
Sold immediately after that summer once it got cool enough for people to not notice the A/C wasn’t very good.
I looked at a 3.8 Taurus that was wired like that. The owner said that he did that so it didn’t overheat. In 34* weather. I’m pretty sure it had a head gasket issue but what Ford 3.8 car didn’t?
I had a buddy some decades back who got t-boned in his mid-70s Duster. The thing was still drivable, although the passenger door was pushed in and wouldn’t close. Not his fault, and he was otherwise unhurt. So, what does he do? He pockets the insurance settlement and rigs up a rope with which he held the door closed. That actually lasted a couple of months before he gave up and gave in and got a new car.
The car I was driving at the same time was a ’66 Chevelle 2-door hardtop. It was a fading metallic blue, and after a collision, I dropped a green front clip on it, which earned the car the “two-tone” moniker. Being a poor college kid, with at least a minimum eye for color coordination, I went out and bought a can of blue spray paint — didn’t match but was better than pea-green. The swaths where I sprayed were visible for the rest of the car’s life.
The same car was falling apart from the inside out almost from the time I bought it. The trunk was rusted out, which presented some carbon-monoxide issues if the windows were open.
It also had a headliner that was rotting, and one day one flap of the headliner just dropped onto my face. I ripped it out and just replaced it with a bedsheet that was held aloft by the wire supports that spanned the underside of the roof. Not long after, the sheet started to rot and it, too, started to collapse around me.
That car was an abject lesson in how much a poor guy with no money will tolerate in his mode of transportation.
My first car was a ’68 Catalina 2-door hardtop that had its share of issues. One was a broken clamp that held up the exhaust system. I was in high school at this point and already a slave to the thing, so enough was enough. I just got a coat hanger, ran it under the pipe and ran the hanger around the drive shaft. Of course, whenever I drove the car, it made a pretty ugly grinding noise of metal against metal. Not the stuff of which chick magnets were made.
You couldn’t find anything under the car other than the driveshaft to wrap the coat hanger around?!
Like I said, I was in high school, it was my first car, and it was nearly 40 years ago. In fact, the coat hanger idea was a friend’s notion. I guess I can blame him.
A few jury rigs: The defrogger pipe for my TR3A had suffered paperworm, but it happened to be the same ID as my old shop vac hose. Fixed!
Lost a transmission mount in the TR, but I had a few chunks of old tire and something to keep the assembly together. Worked well enough.
Field expedient in a 75 Celica. The headlight relay was sticking (really pitted contacts) and trying to kill the battery, but it was two relays in one case. Flip the connector, pull the horn wires, and I had a working headlight system until I got to the parts place.
Best jury rig I ever saw was on a friend’s father’s 1st gen Honda Accord. And (as usual with these things) there’s a story behind it.
I was traveling with two friends and one friend’s dad to WY for a camping trip. Two cars were necessary because my ride at the time was a new Mustang GT and friend’s dad’s was an Accord, and neither could carry four adults plus the equipment for a backpack trip (four packsand sleeping bags, two tents, clothes, food). The first day (Saturday) we drove from Fort Wayne to someplace in NE (I’m not sure whether it was Neligh or O’Neill, but anyway it was small-town Nebraska – we were taking the scenic route on US 20) where we could find a small park outside of town to throw out the sleeping bags for the night.
Sunday morning the Mustang fired right up but the Honda wouldn’t start. The starter turned over but the engine wouldn’t fire, so we ruled out drained battery. I tried to push start the Honda (yes, it had a stick), but still no go, so I pushed it up the road to the nearest gas station. Now, this being small-town Nebraska, the station wasn’t actually open early on a Sunday morning. There were, however, people stopping by to buy a paper, which meant taking a paper off of the stack that had been dropped off and leaving the price in a pile of coins next to the stack of papers. All commiserated with us, but all disclaimed any knowledge about furrin cars. We did, however, learn that the nearest Honda dealer likely was in Omaha, which was, mmm, a ways away.
Even after the station opened, the only employee was someone to collect money for gas, papers, etc. (it’s Sunday!). Finally, a man arrived who was a circuit-riding Methodist minister driving from one church to another. He said, “You know, my son is pretty good with cars. Here’s his number. You call him and tell him his old man told him to get his lazy butt out of bed and help you folks.”
We called the son, who drove to where we were and quickly diagnosed the problem as a lack of power to the fuel pump. He rigged up a new wire running along the side of the car with a quick-disconnect at the a-pillar, which worked fine to get us to WY only a half day behind schedule, and friend 2 and his dad back to Fort Wayne.
I’m sure the jury rig didn’t survive a trip to the Honda dealer in Fort Wayne, but I’d like to think the mechanic at the dealer was impressed by the field repair improvised by a teenager in bumf**k nowhere NE that got the car running again.
Ahhh – another Fort Wayne boy. Don Ayres Honda, I would guess?
That’s why I like mechanical fuel pumps. Too bad they went out with the carburetor.
Helped a friend install a brake pedal switch similar to the one Paul shows, on his 1920’s Lancia Lambda – I’m not sure whether a) the MC had a pressure switch or b) if it still had the original MC, as plenty of other things weren’t original including the engine.
I recently bought a car that has the thermo fan manually switched on via what was originally the high beam switch – hmm, I better add “find out what happened to the high beams” to the list of things to do…
#1: 1986 Ford Sierra Ghia wagon with a low brake-pad warning light on the dashboard. It was 1997 and I was broke, so when the pads got low I bought generic Sierra L-spec pads instead of the expensive Ghia ones. They fitted like a charm. But the L pads didn’t have the wiring inside them, so the dash light stayed on permanently, and very brightly. I could have pulled the bulb, but where’s the fun in that? So I found the now-unused socket on the wheel hub, inserted a bit of wire in one terminal socket then into the next and voila!. It completed the circuit, the light came on as usual when the key car was started, and when the self-check mode finished, the light went out as usual. Perfect!
#2: Same Sierra, the trip computer was possessed by the devil and refused to work correctly. I didn’t want to unplug it as the analogue clock was part of it and worked fine. So, I cut and fit some glossy black plastic to cover the trip computer side, glued it over the offending faulty display, and glued a Ghia badge on it so it looked factory-ish.
#3: Yup, same car, fitted the new brake pads from #1 above, discovered they pushed the calipers out too wide for the wheels to go back on. The wheels were factory Ford Cortina Ghia V6 alloys, apparently with a slightly different offset than the Sierra. Solution: Use one new pad on the inside of the caliper, and one old (but still ok) pad on the outside. Front wheels now fitted great! And I still had two unused pads spare! 10,000km later the old outside pads wore out, and the new inside ones had worn down a tad, so I binned the old ones, swapped the previously new ones to the outside, and put the unused new ones on the inside. Perfect! Problem later solved permanently by a lovely set of TSW Hockenheim alloys.
Good times, good times…!
I fixed a bit hole in a Lada Niva dash with an old piece of scrap metal from a furnace and a few Lucas switches from an old Mini
When running over a mailbox in my ’72 Impala, the box ripped a hole in the exhaust pipe right in front of the muffler. Man, it was loud. And being 19 years old, I was broke. Patched the hole with a beer can and radiator hose clamps. Had a very low rumble, instead of that stock “whishing” sound. I personally loved an exhaust that sounded like a broken compressed air hose, quite common in ’70’s American made V8’s.
I had a thought relating to the first photo – perhaps it is a brake light cut-out switch!
I’d just bet you’re right on that one.
I did that once, although not so obviously with a switch – yanked the wires out. Butt-head was tailgating me, and I felt like winning the Insurance Lottery…
This makes me think of a guy I used to know who had a tail light cut-off switch mounted discreetly under the dash of his old pickup. The purpose was to infuriate the local constabulary. Whenever he drove past a well-known speed trap location at night, he would turn the switch off. The cop would pull him over, and at the precise moment when the cop was almost at the cab of the truck, the guy would turn the switch back on. He would walk around to the back of the truck, point with faked bewilderment at the perfectly-functioning tail lights and watch the cop do a slow burn. He did this for a few nights, and then put the truck’s wiring back to normal.
This picture reminds me that most of my jury rigs have been on brake lights. My 59 Plymouth’s hydraulic switch kept getting gunked up. I was young and just kept pulling it out and spraying it with Brake-Kleen, which would fix if for a month or so. Did this till I got rid of the car.
My 71 Scamp got used to pull a small trailer once. The car’s light connector was not wired the same way as the trailer connector. The second time I hit the brakes, the short killed the brake lights. Actually, the brave little fuse stood there and took all of the current, outlasting a connection in the emergency flasher switch in the steering column. I wish I had though of this guy’s light switch. I hit my emergency flashers every time I got on the brakes until I finally pulled the steering wheel and replaced the flasher switch.
Final one was my 66 Fury. A replacement master cylinder made the brake pedal ride too high to hit the underdash brake light switch. I discovered that a rubber pencil eraser (the kind that schoolkids slip on over a pencil’s regular eraser) fit over the switch plunger just right and added the perfect length to the switch plunger.
I’m confused about the 66 Fury story. First, it must’ve had manual brakes if changing the MC changed the height of the brake pedal, unless you changed the booster as well. Second, when I did something similar, the brake light switch prevented the brake pedal arm from going all the way up.
I swapped the front drum brakes on one of my 66 Chryslers with discs from a 1973 Chrysler. I swapped the power brake booster as well. The 73 booster has a longer pushrod, which raised the pedal higher, away from the floor.
The brake light switch was interfering with the pedal, stopping it from going all the way up. I would have expected the same from yours, although the manual brakes on these cars use a different pedal assembly than the power brakes, so perhaps not. There is some adjustment on the brake light switch bracket, but not enough. I had to remove the bracket and extend the length of the adjustment slot to move the switch plunger further away from the brake pedal arm.
Yes, mine was a manual brake car. I was buying my parts at a local NAPA store, and was given a choice of two different rod lengths out of the MC. The short was too short and the long was too long. It could have been a parts supply issue with a reman supplier who tried to cut down on the number of choices, or perhaps there was some sort of running change in various parts that did not show up in the catalogs.
The switch, as I remember it, looked much like the one Paul rigged on his truck. There was nothing to limit the upper travel of the pedal, but as you pushed the pedal, the pedal shaft would hit the switch and activate the brake lights. I needed a shim and the pencil eraser worked perfectly.
Actually, Paul’s switch is above the brake pedal (the steering wheel would be to the left in his picture), so it would limit the upper travel of the pedal.
I did this in 1987, so my memory is foggy. If the switch was at the front, then the pedal was not coming up quite far enough. I do remember that the shaft coming out of my new reman MC was a different length than the one that came out of my car (which I was quite certain was original – the car only had 20k miles). That was the car that taught me the ills of brake hydraulics in old cars with really low miles.
The best jury-rig I have ever done was on our late, great 1992 LeBaron convertible.
Of course the back window regulators failed due to disintegration of the nylon & plastic bits holding things together.
I removed the assemblies and cribbed my own parts from “inventory” laying around in my 16-drawer nuts & bolts thingy, plus whatever bits and pieces lying hidden for years in the toolbox. All those extra car stereo installation straps, grommets and such you get but never use? I kept them! I used some of them!
When I was finished, those back windows never failed for the next 8 years until the engine blew and I sold the car.
Problem was, the jury-rig was invisible to passers-by and no one got to see my brilliance… ;-}
> Of course the back window regulators failed due to disintegration of the nylon & plastic bits holding things together.
If the back windows didn’t roll down, you wouldn’t have had that problem in the first place. 🙂
Now THAT hurt! Ha ha ha!
Similar to Red County Pete’s TR3A (see above), I’ve lost count of the number of Corvairs I’ve seen with dryer exhaust hose being used to route air from the heater box to the front of the car. It’s practically become standard operating procedure when the original hoses rot.
I once owned a ’63 Monza convertible with headlights and front turn signals that worked intermittently, and I kept blowing fuses. As I dug into the (front) trunk wiring, I found that the previous owner spliced in new wires using twist-on wire nuts, of the type you’d use for a household light fixture.
One of my favorite “redneck repairs,” as I refer to them: A buddy complained that his niece opened a package of hair dye in his 535i, leaving a small, impossible-to-remove, reddish-brown stain on the blond leather seat. After the BMW dealer quoted him some exorbitant amount to replace the seat cushion (and said it might not match), I said, “Let me try.” Went to Home Depot, had the paint department color match a $4 sample of house paint to the leather on the removable headrest, then took a Q-Tip and…
Here in America we are rank amateurs compared to the Cubans, Eastern Europe in the old days, and your standard 3rd world nation.
In the early nineties I drove my ’77 Toyota Corolla all through Mexico until the brake pads wore out and scored the rotors.
Took it to a hole in the wall shop on a side street. The owner sent his son out with the rotors, tied on to his bicycle, to get them turned. Then he got down to business regarding the pads. Toyota’s were not sold in Mexico at the time, so no Toyota parts. He spread out a bunch of pads from other makes on the counter and found that the closest fit was from a Renault 12. Not quite close enough. But by tracing the outline and grinding off the difference, he made them fit.
Lasted for years until I got rid of the car.
Of particular interest was the charge. The parts were about $16 if I remember correctly (more than the cost in the US at the time). Labor was about $5.
> The owner sent his son out with the rotors, tied on to his bicycle, to get them turned.
I was half expecting you to say that his son dragged the rotors on the road tied behind the bicycle to resurface them.
1984 VW Rabbit
When I got it, part of the grille was smashed. I cut the rest out with side-cutters, so all was left was the outer frame. Went to the department store and bought a plastic laundry basket. Cut the sides out of it and fitted them into the grille opening, then spray-painted them dark gunmetal gray (body color of the car). Looked pretty good and lasted the 5 years that I owned it.
Same Rabbit, exhaust system rotted out just ahead of the muffler. I replaced it with a straight-pipe made from the metal tube from an old vacuum cleaner hose, attached to the original pipe with a proper muffler clamp up front, and wired to the original exhaust hangers with coat hanger wire. That fix lasted over a year till I scrapped the car.
1988 Suburban. The 90-degree pipe just after the exhaust manifold burst at the seam. The seam was rusted-out but the rest of the pipe was solid. Bought 3 or 4 worm-gear hose clamps and cut open a pop can, wrapped it around the pipe. I alternated between tapping the can with a hammer to get it to confirm more closely with the pipe and tightening the clamps around it. The pop can blew out the first time I used passing gear on the highway, so I redid the fix with a soup can. It sealed very well. Would have been 100% if I’d had some muffler cement to smear on before wrapping the can around the pipe. Left it like that till something else failed on the exhaust system requiring its replacement, a couple years later.
My brother was driving our dad’s big old Chrysler one day when the mechanical fuel pump failed. He had a small can of gas, an empty washer fluid jug, some plastic fuel line, and a toolbox in the trunk. Cut a hole in the top of the jug so the fuel line was a snug fit, ran the fuel line underhood and connected to the carb fuel inlet. Poured some gas into the jug and held it under his arm like bagpipes while he drove. When the engine started to sputter, he’d squeeze some more fuel out to refill the carb float bowls.
I don’t think I would’ve done that myself. Sounds a bit too dangerous. Now, if I could’ve found a way to secure the gas can on the roof so it would gravity feed down to the carb, I would be OK with that.
When I swapped a ’57 chevy truck 283 V8 into my ’60 Chevy pickup I mistakenly let the hydraulic clutch cylinder and arm go with the 6 motor that I sold, so ended up using the lever’s out of the ’57. First day I drove it I discovered that the clutch wasn’t quite releasing, because the one piece was too short. At the time I had the use of some machine tools, so I cut a piece of angle iron and drilled a hole in one end and three holes in the other, figuring that one of them would turn out to be a good length. I used an end mill to sharpen the inside corner of the angle iron so I could put the other piece against it to stiffen the assembly from bending. One of the holes did turn out to be the right length, and that assembly was still working fine a year later when I sold the truck.
I have had several, but I’ll give you my favorites:
1981 Oldsmobile 98 with a 350 diesel (isn’t there a cc somewhere on this?). I had just put a new (junkyard) tranny in and it shifted fine until it went into overdrive. There was no time distance between 3rd and OD and hence the RPMs would be so low that I would damn near stall. So, I wired a toggle switch to my dash which allowed me to put it in OD as I wished.
1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass. The speedo lights didn’t work when my headlights were on, and since the speedo on that car was recessed in a tube like bezel, I couldn’t see how fast I was going at night. So I moved one of the under-dash lights and mounted it in front of the speedo. Whenever I wanted to see how fast I was going, I just turned on the interior lights. Same car, glove box was held shut with peel and stick Velcro. And I think most of you have seen the old “shoe lace for a door handle” trick.
> 350 diesel (isn’t there a cc somewhere on this?)
Not yet. I keep saying that I will write one as soon as I get some pictures of my dad’s ’78 Olds.
I think I dig up some of my ’81 if you would like them.
Panduit straps (think giant Zip Ties) holding the starter in on my old shop supplied 89 Econoline with the 4.9. It was a “field” repair that accompanied that truck to the scrap yard.
If you want the ultimate in jury-rigged fixes, there is a TV show called “Bush Mechanics” (or it might have been a short series) showing how Aboriginals in remote Western Australia keep their old cars in motion. Things like carving a new clutch plate out of a mulga tree branch, putting a battery in the coals of a fire on a cold morning to give it enough charge to start the car, and using a tree branch act as a skid and replace a failed suspension.
I had a Buick century in my first years of college that was pretty much a heap. It ran fine but blew out part of the exhaust just after the muffler. I did the old soup can+mufler cement+hose clamp repair and it worked like a charm till the car was scrapped with a failed trans two years later.
I had a buddy in college who had a bad driveline vibration in his Caprice beacuse a weight fell off the drive shaft. We “fixed it” by adding hose clamps to the shaft around the area where the weight fell off. We just kept adding clamps and moving them around till the vibration went away. It’s amazing what one little missing weight will do.
Can you show me exactly how to rig my brake lights, I am needing to do it until i can get mine fixed.