The aging process isn’t for the faint of heart. It doesn’t matter if it is a mammal, a residential structure, or something mechanical, aging takes it toll on us all. Such is the case with a certain old Ford van of mine.
Despite all my haranguing about this van in times past, for some inexplicable reason it has started to become more palatable for me, flirting with some mild degree of fondness. Maybe the aging process is affecting my judgement.
At any rate, the front brakes were generating negative attention for themselves. They were making no noise and there was still good pedal feel with no vibrations, but the stopping motion was inconsistent, acting as if there were slick spots on the rotor(s). Since I’m using the van to teach my offspring to drive, as well as transporting her and her mother on occasion, an inspection was in order.
Pulling off the front wheels revealed items that weren’t horrible but it was far from acceptable. So a brake job was in order.
We purchased this van in 2010 with 89,000 miles. At that time the brake system was in nearly perfect condition with all factory installed components still in place including the brake pads which were down to about one-third thickness. Knowing we would be taking it to Oregon five weeks after purchase, with several mountain ranges to traverse, I replaced the pads at that time.
Since 2011, this van has sat much of the time. We’ve put 32,000 miles on it during our ownership with half those being accumulated between July 2010 and July 2011. In other words, we’ve averaged about 2,000 miles per year since; the question of why we still own it has been a frequent and lively discussion at Casa de Shafer.
The left front was the first to be addressed. It doesn’t look that bad, does it?
The brake pads were thinner than anticipated, with one shown here next to a new pad. This was the most worn pad of the four.
For what it’s worth the old pads were ceramic, as opposed to semi-metallic, as I am not excited about washing brake dust off wheels. The new pads are ceramic also.
Working on disc brakes is always preferable to drum brakes although there are a multitude of ways to execute the brake / rotor / hub / wheel bearing relationship with disc brakes, making for vehicle specific strategies. Here the hub assembly is part of the rotor. Removal of the rotor requires disassembly of the hub and removal of the wheel bearings.
Here’s the back of the driver’s side rotor. Notice the pitting, particularly at the top. If I have seen a rotor that was pitted, especially to this degree, it’s been a while. Might it be a function of sitting? This would certainly explain what seemed like slick spots on the rotor which it pretty much was given the pads had areas of greatly reduced surface area to grab.
The van was stored outside from November 2015 until recently. With my pickup developing rust there is no need for two vehicles to deteriorate so the pickup has been demoted to being parked outside with the van now residing in the garage.
Pulling off the right front wheel didn’t reveal anything drastically different except this wheel would not easily spin when in the air. While it had not translated (yet) into being felt while driving my thought is this thing is nearly twenty years old. Given its age it’s wise to play it safe.
So a new caliper was procured.
All the parts together looked somewhat daunting.
The pads on the right side didn’t look that horrible nor was the rotor as deteriorated as was the one on the left.
It didn’t matter, as new pads were installed in addition to the new rotors. Also replaced were the wheel bearings. I could have easily reused all four wheel bearings but that internal little voice told me to use new ones. Taking things apart to access the wheel bearings is an annoyance, so this should hopefully reduce the odds of doing so anytime soon.
After installation of the new caliper, the brakes were bled. It seems some people detest the process of bleeding brakes. For me, it’s a rather enjoyable endeavor but everyone has their preferences. It’s also quite preferable to the absolute mess one can easily make when packing grease into new wheel bearings. It is an easy, but profoundly messy, task.
Overall this was a very easy project but there were two challenges. First, this is a screenshot of the radar in the midst of my repair. I was quite committed by this point and the rain was not forecast for this time of day. Thankfully it rained very little.
The second challenge was more subtle. For the first rotor I installed the new race, the metal piece that merges with the wheel bearing, for the inner wheel bearing. Doing so did not allow for me to install the new seal on the inside as the seal could not fit into the groove. I fiddled around with this for a very, very long time. Having an epiphany, I called the parts store….sure enough, a new race had been installed with the manufacturing of the rotor. Thus I did not need to install the races that came with the new wheel bearings.
Having learned all this, the second wheel went from removal of the tire to installation of the rotor and pads (as seen above), including packing grease in the wheel bearings, in forty minutes. What a difference.
The van required nothing during our first six years of ownership however this is the third year in a row in which a repair of consequence was needed. Last summer the fuel pump retired after eighteen years ($225 total) and the year before that the radiator hoses were replaced ($110 plus coolant), although I view hoses as being similar to tires as they are consumable items. The fuel pump failure, like the condition of the brake rotors, makes me wonder if it can be attributed to its minimal use.
Hopefully the brakes are good for another nineteen years. Although it might be less if we start driving it more.
Familiar sight for me, only with GM B-bodies and the like.
Our 2011 Equinox LTZ is in the garage with 170,000 miles and the A/C compressor appears to need replacing.
That the serpentine belt should be replaced too is a given. Just ‘cuz…
But do I go on ahead and do the belt tensioner and maybe even the alternator, since it all has 170,000 miles and the wife drives it 60 miles/day?
When the plan is to keep a vehicle long-term and you can afford to do so, these are the questions one begins to ask. A neighbor will be performing the work in my garage so we’re not looking at $$$ from the flat-rate book that can definitely become expensive enough to make the idea of replacing it all the more alluring.
The absolute worst thing you can do with a motor vehicle (or pretty much anything with an engine) is let it sit. “Ran good when I parked it” was the most common line I heard from my customers when I ran my boat service shop. Yeah, 5 years ago…
Brakes are a consumable too. Normal wear item. Nice job on the repair, did you replace both calipers or just one? I like to replace in pairs as the most likely are the same age. With good maintenance the van should last you a long time more.
Just the one was replaced. I debated on that also but needed to draw the line somewhere.
Wow, it has been so long since I have done a set of brakes. The last few times a vehicle of mine needed them, the cost a shop quoted was so reasonable that I just let them do it.
I remember my 94 Club Wagon as being fairly hard on brakes, going through probably three sets of fronts in the space of 160k or so. Or perhaps (pause, looking all around) it was the lady who was driving it most of the time.
And wow, watching a vehicle slowly get rehabilitated in the Jason Shafer Hierarchy of Cars is an amazing thing to behold. In another ten or fifteen years this could be the best one you ever owned. 🙂
Thinking about it, nine years of ownership is a new record of sorts. Scary, considering my relationship with the thing.
I hate having to remove the hub to replace the rotor, so figured that replacing a rotor on our New Beetle would be easy, as it’s held on by one screw. Well, a Philips head screw, and we all know how challenging those can be to remove after 15 years. For reassembly, I used an Allen head screw and lots of anti-seize. But even after removing the screw, the tight fit of the rotor over the hub and 15 years of rust defeated any attempts with heat, pullers, tapping with a hammer. I finally had to wail on the rotor with a 10# sledge … intimidating at first, but finally very satisfying. Yes, I wore safety glasses. But new brakes always feel so good; a similar job to what you did (along with other front end parts) transformed my T100, just before I sold it.
An impact driver works well on those screws, basically it’s a fairly cheap socket with a bit in it and as you whack it with a hammer it turns counterclockwise at the precise instant maximum force is applied and loosens the Philips screw. Not to be confused with an impact wrench.
Those screws are on there to keep the rotors off of the toes of the people on the assembly line between the point where they get hung and the caliper goes on. Once removed they should be discarded.
If you mask and paint the non-friction surfaces of the rotor assembly with high temp BBQ paint does it end up not corroding as badly down the road? The parts look wonderful in their “as-delivered” state. Nice job on the install, with that hill you live on cold braking performance is a must!
They now actually market paint for brakes, https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-caliper-paint and you aren’t stuck with flat black like the BBQ paint.
When I bought the rotors there was the option of painted ones for $16 more, each. Given these unpainted ones lasted 19 years I figure new unpainted ones will last nearly that long. Besides, I wanted blue and that wasn’t available. 🙂
I guess brake repairs are like oil changes. This many miles or this many months, at least the interval is much longer.
And felt a little sorry for my daughter to learn to drive in the Grand Caravan! I predict ErinD will learn to drive a stick so she can use the Focus, is there a smaller vehicle coming to the Shafer fleet? 1963 Falcon?
I’ll bet a quarter that the spot with the worst pitting is where the brake pad was. It looks to be about the width of a brake pad. Moisture from dew, humidity, etc gets in there and it can’t get out so easily. And that pitting wears out your pads quicker.
I’m of the mind that if you’re not using a vehicle often enough to get it good and warmed up at least a couple times a month, you’re probably better off renting.
I don’t disagree with you on use although I’ve gotten 6000 miles for about $500 in repair costs these last three years. Having seen rental rates on vans I’m still ahead even if you include insurance.
Oddly, when the van is driven, it goes long distances. We have never short tripped it around town.
“We have never short tripped it around town.”
Perhaps you ought to, one day a month. Sure, it’s inefficient, but it would be good for the van.
Let me rephrase…we’ve never frequently short tripped it. Just drove it across town night before last.
This reminds me I really should do rotors and pads on my Citroen, I replaced the front pads not long after I bought it when a pad lost its friction material but nothing since and the rotors are quite worn but also with it being manual trans the brakes dont get the same amount of use automatic cars suffer from I downshift on long steep descents and let the engine do the braking 20+ to 1 compression does have its uses.
Nice work Jason. I have had several vehicles that see limited use like your van, and keeping it indoors will make a huge difference on its longevity. I think that change along with driving it 2K miles per year will be fine to keep you van from deteriorating too badly.
Your rotors actually don’t look that bad compared to some I have seen up here in the great white north. With the amount of salt and the low quality steel used in modern brake rotors, brakes are more often replaced due to corrosion before they actually wear out. Even your old caliper looked pretty good corrosion wise. With my daily driven cars, I have to disassembly, clean and lubricate the brakes at least once a year. Failing to do so will cause them to seize up due to corrosion and will result in uneven and premature wear along with poor braking performance. That was one way rear drums were better IMO, they required less maintenance in harsh environments (and also seemed to last longer too).
The van is a part of the family now. How can you ever get rid of it?
Uh, yeah, that’s crossed my mind.
Put me in the “hate brake bleeding” group. I’m curious what method you use?
Combination of gravity and pumping. I’m too impatient to wait for gravity entirely so I had the wife pump the pedal.
Bleeding brakes, the maintenance task that brings families together 🙂 🙂