The subtitle of this might be: Or, In Which the Author Recognizes Her Needs May Have Shifted But Isn’t Sure Whether She Should Pull an Irv Gordon….
So! As some of you may know from my posts and what eventually will be part of my COAL series, I daily drive a 1989 BMW 325i Cabrio 5-speed, “Winston.” She was given to me as a family hand-me-down in the summer of ’99 with 62k miles on it, and since then, I’ve diligently kept her on the road. In fact she’s been my main touring vehicle for most of my music career, putting on just over 100,000 more miles in the last 18 years. Here we are just this last weekend in Hollywood, where I had an audition for a big touring musical.
She did the 800 mile round trip in typical fashion-no overheating on the Grapevine, averaging 74 mph on the 5 and probably 24 mpg. Not too shabby.
However, as strong as the engine and trans are, it’s the little things. The gas struts in the hood and trunk are dead. The weatherstripping and headliner are both shot. Replacement seats are unobtanium and I can’t find anyone I trust to restore them. The car suffered severe sun damage when it lived in Florida when it was my aunts’ car, and the leather is split in the back seat and the drivers’ seat. The soft top was slashed in ’05 in NYC, and I’ve had the factory hardtop on it since then, a part worth almost half the value of the car!
The car itself is pretty grand. It’s got an M3 steering rack, an LSD, a decent rear end ratio, and can beat almost anything off the line. It’s a hoot, takes corners like a champ, and I can fit my gear in it without issue. In fact, like fitted luggage of yore, I’ve only purchased amps that will fit into the trunk perfectly. I can get a 100 watt bass amp, my vintage Fender Princeton, pedalboard, lap steel, Telecaster, and bass all in the trunk with no fanfare.
But while the car’s mechanics are up to snuff — and considering its age and that it was always a northeast car, there is little rust — it’s starting to freak me out that the seatbelts are almost 30 years old, there are no airbags, and last week, I saw a low-mileage E39 525i for a great price, dealer maintained and no friggin iDrive.
But my E30 continues to hold value, even in its current state, and could theoretically keep on going, especially now that I live in the PNW, where rust is not an issue. So my question is this: do I keep DD-ing my ’89, trying to do some weekend resto work when I can, or put myself in a little debt and get a 2003 E39 to daily and make this a project car? My insurance won’t change much but I am wondering if any of this makes sense. A 4-door would be nice, as would airbags, but the reliability factor frightens me. I’ve heard the E39 is the last great BMW, but I don’t know anything about its long term rep. My E30 has only broken down once in my ownership of it (belts snapped leading to overheating), and has otherwise been like a Timex. I do 40k timing belt changes. The suspension is mostly new (aside from the struts, which are overdue). It’s a joy to drive. But I worry. Thoughts?
A girl and her best friend
Since your current has a low trade in value, why not keep it AND get something newer for your DD? I did that with a Miata and my current DD, and the insurance difference is minimal, and I have a “spare” car for any emergency.
Without a budget it is hard to suggest anything.
If it wasn’t for the fact that they are not good highway cars I’d suggest a Honda Fit. You’d likely be able to get everything you could conceivably need to carry to a gig in there.
My budget is low as I don’t have much in savings and I’m a working musician. I can likely finance 5-6k from a dealer at 2.5%. I could probably buy something straight up for 1500-2k if I ate ramen for a couple months.
If you cannot pay cash, you cannot afford the car!
+1
Eat Ramen for 6 months and you’ll have some cash to use as you see fit.
I would generally say financing any part of a well used car can be a crapshoot to your finances.
What an interesting life! Be honest with yourself: if you get another DD will you really have the time and money to maintain, let alone restore this car? If you are not keeping it registered, insured and stored out of the elements, then it is going to sit and develop more issues from lack of use. I would say its either time to ‘re-capitalize’ the 325 with an injection of some cash and bring it back up to snuff or just sell it and get something newer.
On the 2003 BMW—we have a 2002 E46 325i that we’ve had since it was three or so years old. BMW’s from that era are not for the faint of heart in terms of maintenance costs—its going to cost you more to keep it going than a honda or a toyota, etc. The issue is that these are significantly more complex overall than your earlier one and you end up with a relatively steady requirement for things like sensors, electrical components, window lifts, etc. Basically not a good vehicle for bare minimum maintenance budget…
Its nice to have a car with some more ‘soul’ than one of those, but if you are looking for soul, then just keep the 325!
Agreed. Get a reliable DD, and move your beloved best friend to Pleasure Status. I had to make the same decision with my faithful steed when the transmission went at 170K back in August. I had the transmission rebuilt, and the car runs great now (as it always did). Now that it’s my pleasure ride, I won’t run my Mustang into the ground (I only have 172.3K on it now, 5 months later). Maybe someday, it will be a Curbside Classic. Its replacement every-day-driver is pictured with it below. And Good Luck, Mya! I think you’ll be sad if you part with it, and be very happy when you keep it. Just make sure you drive it at least once a week to keep it running good. ;o)
Keep it. These are sterling cars.
I tend to keep cars. Haven’t had a BMW. I do notice that cars and owners tend to grow towards each other and affect each other with time, so a new one is like a stranger for a while. Exciting and novel, but exhausting while you figure it out. You could always try something else and keep the E30 non-op for a while.
“Winston, I’m going to start seeing other cars. It doesn’t mean I don’t love you.”
A brand new E39 on a dealer’s lot had about as much life left in it as a reasonably maintained 15 year old E30 with 225K miles.
Oh no, worry not about your bimmer, love it and maintain it, drive it and enjoy it. Worry about big things in life, shelter, family and personal health etc, don’t be sucked into getting something newer believing it better/ more reliable etc, for some idiotard will steal it or prang it in traffic or at Walmart. You already have a classic that perfectly drivable, and it had obvious character, but….get a new fabric top to allow you to really appreciate the pnw, it’s really beautiful!
Fwiw!
I’ll predict that the majority of answers to this QOTD will be: keep it, but get a more modern DD.
You are correct in worrying about safety in a 30 year old car since you do a lot of driving. Even if mechanically is all up to snuff at this time it is much more likely for things to go wrong now then it was over the last 30 years. Then, it was most of the time a NE vehicle. That exposure is now history of this car and any rust that has started will continue even now in the PNW. This means rust will become an issue eventually.
So, yeah keep this darling of a car, invest in a battery maintainer and get something fresher for daily duties.
Of course this assumes you have space for two cars. If you don’t then keep Winston until something awful do you apart.
I’d go with sell the convertible if you can get some money out of it, and get a newer BMW.
But either way who cares? You’ve got a Telecaster 🙂
Keep it. Your car looks great and has a lot of miles left in it. The hardtop is a big plus. So much easier to maintain then a mid 2000’s BMW. E30’s are durable, and relatively simple and basic in design. Don’t need all the dealership software BS a newer BMW requires for certain repairs. I would think eventually you can find a wreck with a better interior at a reasonable price. Gas struts are an easy fix.
Parts for an E30 will be around for a long time. If eventually something major and not cost effective to replace fails, then it’s probably time to upgrade. I would expect the seatbelts could be re webbed, found this in a search, there are a few places that can do this. https://www.safetyrestore.com/seat-belt-repair-service/11-seat-belt-webbing-replacement.html
$75.00 per belt.
Of course you keep it. And, of course, you get a different DD that is boring as hell to keep the BMW even more exciting in its encroaching elderliness.
In turn, you can keep the top down (provided you can store it inside) which completely solves your issues with the headliner and weather stripping.
Broom handles are cheap and effective replacements for gas struts and you’ll only need one since you will rarely have both the hood and trunk lid open.
You mentioned replacement seats, but what about getting the existing rebuilt? If a person was so inclined, they could likely do it themselves.
And, speaking of DIY, you’ll want to spread some POR (or equivalent) into the various nooks and crannies where rust is starting to form. If its started, the rain you see will only aid in its growth, like Wolfgang said.
It sounds like you’ll be replacing the suspension pieces regardless so that could be considered a maintenance item.
It is possible to keep a car operable on the cheap, and while I won’t advocate using safety pins to hold up the headliner as I’ve done, there is a factor of vanity that differs for all of us when it comes to our cars. My approach has been to not have anything pristine, but something that proudly carries a few scars.
It sounds like you are at the point where a number of various needs have bubbled to the top at the same time. It also sounds like safety is a big priority (quite understandable!) so promotion of the BMW to fun car is likely your best route.
Good suggestions, Jason. Hopefully the rust on Mya’s car is minor and non structural.
Cheap mini vice grips from harbor freight work great to clamp on and hold up a dead strut, better and safer than an accidently bumped stick. As I found out the painful way!
I like the vise grip idea! Also I have an elaborate system of binder clips of varying sizes to keep the headliner up–I was grinning with empathy when I saw the pics of Jason’s Galaxie with the safety pins. And like Jason I don’t really want to do any bodywork on it..as my mechanics once said, it’s how I know it’s mine and gives it character.
And PS, if there are any recs for E30 specialists you could recommend in the Bay Area and/or Left Coast cities in general, I would be extraordinary grateful!
Yeah me too. Weird that I didn’t think of a vice grip.
I once had a Buick that needed a battery. I got one for free from a friend. It was a Ford battery and one post was on the wrong side, necessitating a longer cable. I put a vice grip on the post and the cable on the other end, an expedience that lasted….for years.
Anyway it turned out that generic Autozone struts fit the Horizon hatchback, and also the Pontiac Trans Sport. The Trans Sport tailgate falling on your head after you knock the broomstick out by mistake would be even worse than the Horizon one was.
Of course with a German car you might have to get original equipment struts for $500.
I recommend keeping it even if you get a newer car. It’s probably at the low point of value and will likely rise soon. You know it’s condition already, A “Drivable Dream” soon to be “classic”. I wish I had at least one car that I let go “too soon”, as a “weekend ride” YMMV!
Definitely keep it, but make it your weekend car. You’re right to be concerned about safety. I’m not saying the Bimmer is a scooter made out of old newspapers but it wouldn’t be as safe as that 5-Series you were looking at…
Besides, the more things that go wrong – and even though you’ve had a good run, things may eventually break – the more the bloom will come off the rose. But little niggling faults are less annoying on a weekend car than they are on a daily driver!
If you keep your current car, do you want to spend what it takes to keep it running? Keep in mind that the “new” car will require some upkeep too. I am guessing that “new” really means a newer used car. The real question here is what do you want to do: get another BMW or get something reliable and keep the old one. Would you be happy with a generic car as a daily driver?
That’s the rub. I’m a BMW lover. This piece coulda been sub-subtitled, “…bbbbbbut I only drive Bimmers!”
As somebody who has been in bed with European cars, I am torn between keep it or run like hell. Regardless of what you hear here, cars from Europe are a complete and total PITA. IF you love it, and have the ways and means to care and feed it, keep it. I weaned myself off of European iron a good decade ago, and have never looked back.
I agree with suzulight (above).
Whenever someone in my family – or near my family – has asked me for advice about a car, I have said: Honda or Toyota. Period.
Need to carry guitars and such in all sorts of weather and places, day and night?
Honda or Toyota.
Not that I heed my own advice; I have never claimed to be all that smart.
But to you Mya Byrne I will say: Honda or Toyota. New. Probably a Fit to keep the price down. Get the CVT. The stick shifts are not geared well for freeway travel.
Or go full green; the new Lithium Prius is kind of nice and also very roomy (but more money).
OK fellow CC’ers. I’ve put on my flame proof pajamas.
“Probably a Fit to keep the price down. Get the CVT. The stick shifts are not geared well for freeway travel.”
Ditto on the CVT. I miss rowing, but having put 48K miles on my ’15 Fit CVT in two years, the CVT simply fits my use case better. I think it’s also a bit faster through the autocross course!
For my own needs (one road trip a year, usually no more than 50 miles at a time otherwise, off-peak commute, no room or budget for a separate “fun” car) a Fit with sunroof and 6MT is at the top of the shortlist.
Don’t overlook the Corolla iM (or Matrix if you’re looking at used) either. There’s a new Civic hatchback too.
Honda Fit advice:
Do not get the base model. The mid level model is not that much more and has a shitload of good stuff on it including a sunroof. The cheapo one even has less sound insulation, which in the case of the Fit is not exactly a good idea.
Awesome room inside. Your amp – any amp – could probably fit (yeah I know) on the floor of the back seat with the seat bottom folded up. Then you can put more stuff in the (small) trunk area.
Airbags all over the place. Better crash performance than your BMW. Backup and lane change cameras.
Having said that, even though the current model is apparently far better than the earlier ones, not that comfortable for me to drive. NVH not that good, although on mostly smooth interstates riding as a passenger it was OK on a trip.
One thing the same about the current Fit and an early 80’s Mazda I owned: I’m about the median male height and proportion, and in the Fit I have to have the seat as low as possible and the wheel as high as possible in order to see the instruments. I would want the seat high and the wheel low, which would put the rim in front of the instruments. I think the Japanese are still using a Japanese guy manikin from 1955.
Oh, and I have to reverse the headrests on the Fit. In the normal position they push my head forward, but you can pull them out and put them in backwards. The owner of this Fit said other people had the same complaint.
I have a car of almost the same age: 1990 Pontiac Trans Sport. Great vehicle. Only cool looking American minivan ever made. Love it. Zero body rust in (mostly) the NE – it’s all plastic. Only 135K miles on it. Replacements of various bits over the years: alternator, water pump, heater core (twice: $400 the first time in SF, and $300 the second in Brooklyn. Who knows, probably $2000 in a BMW), steering rack ($350 – aftermarket – plus about $200 labor at a dealer in CO. BMW – $2000?) Transmission lockup solenoids, about $300.
Oh, of course since I’ve owned it for 15 years, various brake bits including wheel cylinders besides pads and linings.
Engine and transmission – nothing, still solid, no leaks.
No airbags. Door hardware problems with no parts available. And it leaks from the top of the doors/windows/tailgate, like your BMW. Apparently after 26 years the gaskets shrink. Good for trips of any length with no more worries than any other car.
So I feel your pain. Except no one cares about an old Trans Sport.
I’ve owned a convertible, and NOTHING is as awesome in certain situations. But you have a hard top on it. A new top, which would be needed at this point in any case slash or not, is what – maybe $2K? If you want to keep driving the BMW you have to do it.
What a great car, the Honda. What a paragon of design. Can’t see the instruments in a normal driving position. Can’t use the headrests as they were intended to be used (and reversed, they would be useless- might as well throw them in the trunk). Oh, and it’s noisy. At least it has that lifetime guarantee against all breakdowns and repair expense.. wait, no?
I would rather drive a car designed for my Anglo-Saxon frame, that’s comfortable, with usable instruments and headrests EVEN IF I had to visit my mechanic once or twice a year and give him some of my money. Crazy, aren’t I? Unless you always buy the cheapest food, and live in the cheapest housing, because “it’s all the same.”
Honda and Toyota are trading on the same low-information, lower-expectations KMart shoppers who used to keep Detroit prosperous. The only mystery is why anyone who cares so little about design, performance and other intangibles bothers to hang out a a car enthusiasts’ site.
I have to agree, guys. I wanted another Mustang, and my wife had good advice for me… keep my existing Mustang, and get a reliable, good gas mileage car. I shopped Honda and Mazda (Civic and 3, respectively) and was actually impressed. While I never thought I’d be in a practical car, I love driving my Civic. AND it has the much derided CVT….. Who knew? Honda has a real performer there. (The turbo helps ;o) – both cars are pictured above. The hatchback is bigger, so more room for guitars and amps and such.
And for Mya, they now make a Hatchback. While I picked the much less practical coupe, it’s just me on my commute. And I prefer coupes, as I have stated here many times. 33-40 MPG and a blast to drive? Yeah, I’ll take it.
And Mya, you’d get to keep your BMW, and believe me, if you aren’t driving it when you have to, but when you WANT to, it’ll make you appreciate it that much more. Now that I’m not driving my Mustang every day, I appreciate it that much more when I take it out. Driving it has become special.
Consider the Civic Hatch or Mazda 3… reasonably priced, reliable, and fun to drive.
I daily drive an e39. As can be guessed by my username, it’s a 530i with the stick shift. As far as reliability goes, my example, which I bought with 56k miles 3 years ago and now is approaching 78k miles, has basically just needed regular maintenance items such as tires, shocks and fluid changes. The dealer I bought it from replaced the brake rotors, pads and front calipers, one of which had frozen up. Other than that, I’ve also had to replace the valve cover gasket, which was relatively inexpensive. Probably the e39’s biggest known issue is the cooling system, which is known to be a weak point and needs to be refreshed somewhere between the 80-120k mile mark, depending on who you ask. Mine is still on its original system with no signs of problems.
In terms of the actual driving experience and usability, I’m of the opinion that this is one of the finest all-around sedans ever built, full stop. Mine has the sport package, and in terms of steering feel, cornering ability and general back roads fun, it beats all but a handful of the sports cars I’ve driven. It’s literally that good; just so communicative and precise, yet with a forgiving suspension that doesnt beat you up on poorly maintained roads. The straight six is a gem – it loves to rev, sounds like ripping velvet when pushed and can get over 30 mpg on the highway when driven reasonably. The gearbox has the typical BMW feel – slightly rubbery, but pleasant – although the clutch isn’t the easiest to get used to.
Add in a beautiful, high-quality interior with space for four adults to sit comfortably, as well as a nice sized trunk augmented by (optional) fold down rear seat backs, and you have a heck of a machine. The styling is also a high water mark for BMW, in my admittedly biased opinion.
Speaking from experience here, and I know that you are aware of this, but you should consider proactive replacement of your plastic cooling system components very soon.
A cracked coolant reservoir can ruin an engine before you even know that the damage has been done. I’ve seen this multiple times, even when people try to pull over and shut it down as soon as they can.
I think the answer depends on your expected use and your support system. Do you live in an area where transit is available in an emergency or is there someone who can lend you a car for a couple of days from time to time? Or are you OK with an occasional rental if the need arises? In those cases, I would say if you love it, keep it. You can always replace it, but if you don’t have to, why do it.
OTOH, if you are on your own, if money for repairs is tight, if substitute transportation is a problem when your expensive German fragzheit sensor fails without warning leaving you with a big boat anchor until you have time and money to fix it, then maybe it is time to move on. I have put nearly 110K almost trouble-free miles on my Honda Fit and have been able to devote a lot of time to things that do not involve wrenching in a freezing garage so that I can get somewhere tomorrow morning.
I’m in the SF Bay Area, so alternative transport isn’t a problem.
I have had BMWs of various flavors for two decades, knows dozens of enthusiast owners, and I’m pretty friendly with a handful of people who make their living working on them. I am also facing the “what do I do with my Old German Car” question.
I was amused that your first picture had a nicely framed Miata (= Miata Is Always The Answer). Subconscious at work? I’m not sure even one Telecaster would fit in the trunk, but one can hope.
The E30 is very durable car. Oh, it has its weak points, but they are well known and can be addressed with preventative maintenance and appropriate mix of OEM and aftermarket parts. There are reasons why E30s continue to do so well in endurance racing. (BTW folks who turn them into race cars often end up with extra seats. Just sayin’) It sounds like Winston is in pretty good shape and I think he’s a keeper.
The E39 is a very desirable car, but it is also less durable and far more complicated than the E30. Even if you get a last-year six (stay away from the V8’s!), it won’t be *that* much newer than Winston. You’re also spinning the Old German Car roulette wheel. Feeling lucky?
I agree with many of the posters here that Winston “should” become a weekend car, and you “should” get something fun-but-practical for everyday use and touring. I’m going through a car shopping cycle now and there is a lot of good stuff out there. For example, a couple of posters mentioned the Fit. I’m not sure it would address your need for hidden storage, but I can say from personal experience the Fit (of any generation) is a hoot to drive and is on my short list.
I hope it’s possible you can keep Winston and also have something a little less risky from a reliability/safety standpoint for everyday use. Your preservation and enjoyment of Winston reflects good character, and the world can always use more of that. I sincerely wish you luck.
Oh yeah. One of my pals had a Miata and I couldn’t even fit my backpack in the trunk!
Long distance driving in a Miata at freeway speeds is a good way to go crazy. And by long distance, I mean going more than 60 mph for more than a few minutes.
Trust me on this one.
A new car is as much a financial decision as anything.
You look as if you are self employed so you can write off much of the depreciation expense of a new car against your income. This will substantially reduce the substantial purchase and maintenance costs associated a new car.
Maybe musicians don’t think much about taxes, but there is a” lease vs buy” decision. It may be more cost – effective to lease a new car instead of buying one. This depends on the costs of each choice and you own tax bracket. Your accountant or advisor could help you.
If you cannot write-off the cost of a new car, keeping the old one becomes an attractive alternative. New cars are far more complicated and expensive to repair. There is a strong appeal to keeping a relatively simple and proven older car until it finally succumbs to a major failure.
Thanks everyone for your kind responses! Yes, I would never get rid of her–she’s my best friend indeed. I don’t have the skills to rebuild the seats (I wish I still had access to an auto shop), but from what I hear it is possible. Good to know about the seatbelt replacement kit! I’ll be doing that right away.
In an ideal world I would drop the dough on having a full mechanical/safety refresh done; and good call on the POR; I take the car apart every four years or so to do a super detailing so that might be a good time to do it. I LOVE the Honda Fit — one of the best tours I’ve taken was in an ’08 Fit sport. But I also love the security of a locking trunk which is why I probably want to stick to a sedan.
So I’m getting mixed messages on the dealer-maintained E39- money pit or good idea? Questions I should ask the dealer any maintenance that’s been done? I’m also considering asking a pal who is a W123 MB dismantler and restorer (future CC) if she’s got anything for me up in Oregon.
What are the miles? Are there any maintenance records? Also, is it a stick or auto? BMW claimed that the autos had “lifetime fluid” which, if not changed against BMW’s initial recommendation, could lead to early transmission death, hence the stick is a safer bet from a maintenance perspective unless there’s documentation showing the fluid was changed.
It’s got roughly 162,000 miles (the odo failed last year at 159,800) and I’ve got a guy who can fix it no prob; I’ve just been putting it off). It was dealer-maintained until I got it. My mechanics in NJ have every record on file, and the few things that were done by BMW after I got it (I do like to take it to dealerships for certain services) are on file. Original transmission, clutch, engine, cooling system; upgraded steering system/control arms, changed all FI components in ’08 (they’re due soon, I think), wheel bearings and rear shocks in ’99, rear shock towers in ’01, and not much else besides brakes, belts, and R134 conversion, it is on its third exhaust system and I guess second or third timing belt /water pump change on my watch. I honestly don’t know the true mileage as the speedo has always read under the indicated speed by 5% or so. BMW employees coo over it whenever I take it into a dealer. After my tours in ’07 I began keeping it more local. When I lived in NYC I took it off the road most winters of my mom had garage space (my sis sells stuff on eBay so sometimes I couldn’t.) Winter 2007-2008 I stopped driving it for two years and did the first partial resto in springs 2009. I put it back in the garage that winter, then from Dec 2012 when the driver’s seat frame failed, until Oct 2015 when I finally found someone who could at least fix that, at which point I had my mechanics in NJ do one last major service, then shipped it to Oakland via rail. Oil changes every 3000-5000 miles. My one hangup is I just found out after all these years that the car has solid lifters and needs valve lash adjustment every 20, 000 miles, which I don’t know has ever been done, to be honest. It was never on my records.
5-speed, in which I’ve changed out the trans oil at least twice. The seal leaks and I think it’s a bit low. TBH, I feel like the various little leaks in my car have helped with the lack of rust-it’s got surface rust on some underbody components now from a fool move on my part, leaving it parked outside uncovered for 18 months when my sister had the garage, but everything is solid, thankfully.
Good. This car is at an age now where the stick is more desirable, that tends to be the case with collector cars (especially those not powered by Detroit V8s). Something to keep in mind if you choose to sell.
edit–I meant her speedo runs OVER the indicated speed by 5%. I’m guessing the car has closer to 145 – 150 k on it.
Far be it for me to offer advice on cars (I’ve owned a Buick Skylark X car and an 81 Olds Diesel…) but I’d put Winston on weekend duty and look at two options;
– A well maintained, certified used Toyota (Scion) or Honda – xB, Fit, etc.
– A new Golf TSI – I’m not a typical VW fan but these new Golfs are inexpensive, superb cars with all the German driving experience you may miss from Winston.
I don’t have much E39-specific knowledge; had a friend who owned and loved a ’98 540i 6-speed, but that was over 10 years ago. It did have some issues pop up but I don’t know if those drove him to sell it or he just got tired of it. Regardless I’d be more than a little hesitant to get into a 14 year old BMW as a daily driver–even if it’s in immaculate shape, it’s very much a gamble.
Then again what do I know…my daily is a 20 year old Crown Vic. I’d actually be quite happy to be rid of it but my practical side is keeping it until something major goes wrong. That may be tomorrow or that may be 5 years from now. Who knows?
In terms of suggestions…you want fun to drive, relatively economical, not something that feels like a penalty box compared to the E30, and it needs to be Not A Hatchback. Mazda 6, perhaps? I’ve not driven one but I’ve heard good things, they look great, and the interior is very well finished for the price point.
I have considered CVs a number of times. My dad had a 99 GM with HPP and I freakin loved it. It’s still astounding to me that my lil baby has outlasted every single car in my family. And to them, too. My great aunt (Winston’s gramma, really) had a 68 W112(?) 4-door from new until it was totaled in 2003 (after a restoration, sigh!), so there is some precedent.
Rhetorical question of the day! Keep it in daily service, maintain as you have to date. Rent a new ride for the transcontinental work.
Not a bad idea either! I’ve done that in the past. I think I’m most concerned about if I have to commute to LA more. There is always the train. I’m hoping that this year I make some financial career advances (anybody know how I could open for Melissa Etheridge?) that will enable me the freedom to get Winston fixed and a (gasp!) actual new car. 🙂
Get a practical car like an Avalon and keep bmw for pleasure. I would be scared to use an old German car as a Dailey. Its a complicated car. Better to use a simpler car like a town car as an old daily. I have done this with old Ford ltds town cars and now a mark vi. They all were reliable and cheap to run. Why is that? I can fix them my self. Parts are cheap due to long production runs and use across many lines, were always proven simple cars with excellent reliability and they are body on frame with heavy bumpers for that inevitable accident. Bmw is not simple, parts are specialized and expensive, many don’t work on them even those who can fix a Ford or Toyota. Unibodies are expensive to fix. If you are a mechanic and have lots of extra money for parts then go for it if you really love it. Just don’t become a slave to it.
Ooh, mine has the famous “diving board” aluminum 5-mph bumpers. For that I am glad. Mishaps that would have cost thousands in a plastic-bumpered car I scoff at. Scoff, I say! 🙂
So true. I collided with a Bonneville that cut me off destroying its rear door, bumper and rear fender in my mark vi and only broke a turn signal lens. No other damage. The Bonneville was caved in and plastic was everywhere.
I go through rear turn signal lenses like Bleeding Gums Murphy goes through Faberge eggs. They are *exactly* the same height as Jeep Grand Cherokee and most Ford pickup bumpers. I’ve replaced them six times.
My advice will greatly differ from most others. Your financial situation precludes ownership of 2 vehicles. No matter what anyone says, it costs more to own no maintain two cars than one. Owning both a DD and a sentimental, high mileage European will get expensive. If you rely on your car to get to gigs and other necessities of life, then you either have to make an investment in either a newer, more reliable car or in fully restoring your existing car (which is quickly becoming a beater – NE snow/salt-induced rust exterior,FLA sun-baked/deteriorated interior, and high mileage mechanicals that need very expensive replacement German parts).
You need a frugal car with secure cargo. Research JD Powers dependability survey. Do NOT research the initial quality survey from JDP or Consumer Reports. Why? YOU CARE ABOUT DURABILITY. A lot of initial quality complaints and satisfaction have little to do with long term durability. When you buy a used car, you shouldn’t care about all those recalls that occurred when the car was initially built (all manufacturers have recalls… some more than others… and not all recalls are the same). Also, many of the initial complaints relate to lack of familiarity with the controls/functions of a new car.
I am fortunate to afford and own many car domestic, Japanese, and European cars. The Europeans are the most expensive to operate and maintain by a wide margin. Honda and Toyota make good quality cars, but the paint doesn’t last. Mazda has fun vehicles, but they are more prone to rust. Stay away from Nissan (iffy suspensions and transmissions). Mitsubishi may not be around much longer (posing an issue for future parts availability), and Subaru is such a cult, I am leery of the KoolAid (their engines burn oil).
In terms of domestics, some models of Ford, Buick, and Chevy have very good durability. In terms of overall value, frugality, and quality, you can’t go wrong with a 2010-12 Ford Fusion with the 2.5L. You could also go with a 2007-2009, but then I’d recommend the 3.0L. In terms of Buick, I tend to like the Verano. In terms of Chevy, I like the 2008-12 Malibu. But if you want an older GM, I’d be concerned about the cost cutting that may have occurred before the government bail-out. JMHO.
Town car or marques big comfortable efficient reliable and cheap to buy own or maintain and they have way better ride, seats and steer effortlessly..
You’ve read thru 40 posts and gotten a lot of opinions. Most I agree with 🙂 But…If you get a ‘newer’ BMW, then when it needs work shortly after purchase, as used cars tend to do, you’ll have to either neglect or (horrors) _sell_ Winston to fix that DD because you need to get to that daily job, much less the music gigs. Neglecting Winston means that much harder a road back to weekend warrior when it’s time to fix him up.
Get a Civic, Fit, Sentra, Versa, Xb or Corolla for your daily driving duties. I can’t see anything else in your $5,000 price range being safe, economical, reliable and able to haul your stuff unless you luck out on Craigslist.
Music is my full time gig so commuting isn’t really a factor–I mostly drive short distances at night with my gear, with occasional 50+ mile jaunts for other gigs. I do freelance book editing and recording engineering; the car is for convenience and practical safety (being a woman and going out at night with expensive equipment I don’t like being reliant on public transportation).
Sell it, buy a dodge grand caravan instead. So much time has passed by, even a base 18k minivan is way faster than this bimmer nowadays. Out-airbags it too. And works great for haulling music equipment. And motorcycles. And beer. And building equipment. And stash.
Trust me, the caravan is a wolf in sheep’s clothing. Its faster than 4 of 10 of the fastest cop cars in America. Its on the list of most Hp for the buck, and fastest & highest powered car under 25 k. And the 30k list. And rules the under 20k list. If you can look past its agreed lameness, it rules.
Yeah…+3 on the Dodge Caravan suggestion. I’m really surprised that no one else on here has chimed in extolling the Caravan’s superiority. I’ve owned about half a dozen of them over the past 20 years, and pound for pound they excel like no other. As cheap as dirt, as hard as nails.
Yeah, but security is a bit of an issue. I wouldn’t leave guitars lying around in my Caravan, no way to completely hide them from view.
If a Fit has a cargo cover that would be way better sitting in a parking lot. Never had a guitar stolen but I understand it is a major downer..
Now that I learned about your budget I have to rethink my earlier suggestion. From a financial point of view you cannot realistically afford an old BMW as DD and you cannot afford a fresher BMW as a DD either. You have a budget that leads you to a long lasting easy to maintain vehicle.
Honda Fit has been suggested several times. I don’t know them but I trust those who suggest them here.
The Pontiac Vibe is another one. It is mechanically identical to the Toyota Matrix and they are based on the Corolla. Some have an oil consumption issue but we can weed those out for you. Their cargo area is great for your application. They have a flat floor and with the back seat(s) down the area is huge.
I also like the 2008 to 2011 Ford Focus for your purpose. It will use less gas than the Vibe and offer better A/C and heat. It will be more comfortable and quieter than the Vibe. I bet the trunk is equal or larger than that of your BMW.
Of course you will give up some of that ultimate drive that the BMW provides, but you can get that when you achieve lucrative gigs. You need a car that allows you to put your focus on your career. Not a distraction.
I think that you are right about the financial picture and an old BMW. BMW’s were the ultimate driving machine once upon a time, but now there are many competitive cars that are for all practical purposes just as good.
You’ve had it for 16½ years, so there’s no such thing now as “previous owner’s problems.” You know the car better than anyone, and the fact that it stayed in the family is a plus. Keep it, fix the nigling little stuff and get something more mundane to make you look forward to hopping into the BMW when you can.
I’ve owned my ’90 Taurus since December of 1997 (19 years and counting) and long ago passed that “other peoples’ problems” syndrome. Few real station wagons are built and sold any longer; it can carry furniture and appliances, or six people and all the gear for a family camping trip, or what-have-you. Any doubt I had on keeping it another five or six years was erased two years ago when I decided to have the then-26-year-old transmission rebuilt. I’ll probably get another 150,000 miles out of it. It helps that it’s easy enough for me to do most of my own work. Mechanically, it’s four years old – all-new hardware at both ends, a NOS A/C system I installed in 2012, a new set of Michelins at the corners and it goes into the shop for a professional repaint in March. I installed power-seat mounts in place of the standard floor-hugger manual mounts it had, a “new” dash from a northern donor car, and cluster from a ’91 SHO. I probably will keep this until I kick the bucket. It’s my baby. 🙂
Don’t sell a car you know that well! – you will regret it within the week.
Awwww your baby is lovely! I won’t sell Winston. Don’t worry. No matter what. She’s my love.
I’m surprised nobody’s suggested a used four-cylinder Camry (the V6s get a sludging problem at high mileages) or 3800 V6-powered GM sedan (they’re surprisingly economical on the open road for big cars, supremely comfy cruisers with four-corpse trunks, heavily fleeted when new and overlooked by the image-conscious so cheap used).
Those GM models have GM’s typical build quality – lousy – and you’ll be hard-pressed to find one in decent shape where everything still works. The four-banger Camrys (at least the one my daughter owned) suffered from incurable oil leaks at the valve cover and oil pan, and constantly had oil fouling the plugs as well. She took a bath on it, but bought a Focus and cut her losses.
I used to own an e39 (2001 525i auto). I got it as a CPO car and drove it during 75,000-110,000 miles. Lots of expensive stuff went wrong once the CPO warranty expired. After it died in an intersection, I dumped it.
But when it was working right, it was the best all-around car I ever had.
So that’s my area of expertise: I would never take on an e39 if I had tight budget.
Not really my expertise: In your shoes, I would either lease a new cheap car (I’m sure you can get a screaming deal on an Elantra, Corolla, Civic, etc.), or I would find a used car that is cheap to buy, cheap to fix, and durable. For used cars, it’s hard to beat a Crown Vic or a GM sedan with a 3800 engine (Buick Regal/Century would be my choice for a GM vehicle).
CV/GM can be a lot fun, as you know. Plus, you can fit a huge amp!
You might want to think about a well-used Maxima. A relatively large share came with stick-shifts. The engines are powerful, the trunk is pretty big, and they’re great drivers. I think the engine has a known flaw, but you may be able to find one that’s already fixed. Other than that, I believe they’re quite reliable.
A lot of the suggestions (including my earlier one) are for small(ish) hatchbacks, wagons, or minivans. However, they still leave your musical tools-of-the-trade in sight. You could solve that problem with a semi-permanent box. If you were in a death metal band, an old hearse with a casket would be perfect, but it might hinder getting that gig with Melissa Etheridge. The simplest solution is to get a used sedan with a decent trunk. The Camry and old W-body sedan as suggested by nlpnt fit the budget but driving a living room sofa may not be to your taste. I like Drew’s previous-generation Fusion idea. They’re a good value, reliable, etc. Being on a Mazda-engineered platform they handle pretty well. You might even find one with a stick.
I love the hearse idea, but if she has to park in urban areas, it will be a deal-breaker. I daily-drove a 1969 Cadillac ambulance for ten years – it had a 156″ wheelbase and was over 20′ long – as long as a long box crew cab full-size pickup. I sold it when I moved to the Seattle area as it was so hard to park.
That’s a nice-looking E30. I don’t live in the Bay Area, but my understanding is the place to go for honest assessments, and good work, up there is Hardy & Beck in Berkeley.
I don’t know what I’d do in your situation, probably keep the E30. As to the 525i, I am an E39 owner. They can certainly be found within your budget, these days, and one that’s in good condition drives quite well. They tend to have minor maladies that can be managed, but ultimately need repair (oil pan gasket leaks, power steering hoses leak) as well as more serious items to watch out for (the radiator, automatic transmission if equipped). I don’t know if it’s ultimately more or less upkeep $ than an E30.
I agree with the idea that initial quality surveys are not a good guide to older used cars. Former CC contributor Steve Lang has a database he’s made from trade-ins and the like, http://longtermqualityindex.com/. My wife and I found her relatively inexpensive Saab 9-3 that way, it’s an example of a car with low incidence of major trouble in the survey (or was a few years ago). So if you want to think over an unfamiliar car, that’s one way to see whether it’s likely to have (at least) powertrain trouble.
Anyway, good luck reaching a decision that you like.
If money ain’t a problem, get the E39 and put the E30 for a project. Now it’s reaching 30 and should be pampered.
BTW, I have an idea for a QOTD after seeing this: what is the “car of your life?”
I recently had 2 Red e30 ’89 325i’s 5-speeds (along with 3 other classic Bimmers, 2002, e21 & e28)) One a Cabriolet, the other a coupe.I got $4500 for the coupe & $4000 for the Cabby. No regrets. And these cars (zero rust) , I nicely modded as well, with fresh engines, lowering springs, strut tower braces, M-tech rear deck spoilers, rear valances, LSD’s, short shifters, etc.,etc….. far from stock (which I paid $300 ea. for them w-broken timing belts). Too many problems occurring all at the same time… fuel fill leaks, calipers hanging up, NO SPEEDOMETERs on 3 of 5 cars, steering rack leaks A/C down, clogged radiators,.etc. etc. Money was not a problem… my time & facility’s was. Not to mention storing all off them. I’d worked on and sold old Bimmer’s & parts for 30 years. They just became to much to maintain & the “novelty” had worn off.
I sold all 5 old Beemers, a shipping container full of parts. I kept my pristine ’75 Opel Ascona. I now have enough money for a nice used car with low miles & A/C that works!
nt
Holy shnikes, Mini-lites look AWESOME on an E30. WOW.
Thanks…my favorite wheels of all time. Those are 14″ Panasport MiniLite replica’s with THICK hub centric wheel spacers and longer lug bolts to make them POP. & give the car a wider stance.. I kept those wheels, as they came on my “75 Opel Ascona when it arrived via car carrier back in 2001 from California. I sold the coupe with some Borbet’s on it instead, w/o wheel spacers. It brought on a whole new look to the car (not as nice).
This coupe was bone stock when I paid $300 for it ,as it had a broken timing belt.(like most of my $300 e30’s I acquired)
The early front “S” airdam was a little difficult to fit to the later (07/’88-on)”plastic bumpers”. The Cabby’s kept the huge aluminum diving board bumpers thru mid 1990? Sideskirts & rear valances were acquired via Ebay in the mid 2000’s.
I do miss owning my creations, but do not miss the constant maintenance with so many cars. I always got stares, flashing high beams & thumbs up, but that dwindled as the newer BMW models became more prevalent, & enthusiasts (& e30’s) dwindled.
In the photo below, you can see the coupe w/o wheel spacers (narrow stance), but the cabby with spacers & a nice wide stance.
As you go through life, you must make changes to adapt to your changing lifestyle, & available resources… or lack thereof …losing a home I physically built with 9 garage spaces due to the 2008 recession.
If your BMW is mechanically sound, it will be much more cost effective to address the cosmetic issues as time and funds permit. If you finance a new car, you will have to carry full coverage insurance, which will likely double what you are paying now, assuming you only have liability. If you do get another car, a Toyota or Honda is a safe bet.
I’ve got comprehensive coverage for about 300/yr. Part of the attraction of getting a second car to DD is putting classic insurance on Winston.
I used Hagerty Classic car ins. I had up to 3 classic BMW’s (and 1 Opel) at one time, FULL coverage with values set at $3K, $4k, $5k & $6k. I paid around $240/year for ALL 4 cars. The ONLY criteria Hagerty requires, is for the cars to be stored in a sound, solid garage structure. Unlimited miles & year round coverage. Being 50 y/o at the time, with a clean driving record might be a plus? Although i did have one DUI in 2010 after a brief relapse after 10 years of sobriety.(TMI)
Get a new ride. Keep or sell the BMW. I have owned a BMW motorcycle and the dealer network is awful for the bikes – slightly better for the cars, plus the costs at dealers are outrageous. As a working musician, you know you HAVE TO get there to get paid. Get a reasonably priced car of a brand that has dealers everywhere. American or Japanese – Toyota, Honda, Nissan. If you are on the road, you can likely get it fixed nearby. Nothing worse than being broke down in Bugtussle with “one of them furrin jobs”. I had an 01 Olds Aurora that would hold a 4 peice drum kit, 88 key Roland piano, guitar, 3 people and luggage enough to last a week on the road. Worked well, ran good. independent mechanic shops could fix it. Recently traded it with 210,000 miles just because of the fear factor of being stranded.
Ford & GM both have cars available in your range that will be big enough – larger than the BMW – that can be fun enough to not feel like you’ve given up. Your car is part of your business. Get one that will be a reliable tool in your tool box.
Here’s a not-well-known secret about older Bimmers–dealerships give you a lower labor rate, usually 15% off whatever the normal shop rate is, for “classic” service on cars over ten years old. So maintenance costs aren’t really an issue, and they tend to be ok with someone bringing in their own parts in my experience.
Winston is a reliable old steed. But yeah. I see your point.
Durable/reliable. A knowledge and appreciation for the German BMW. Music gear to carry on road trips.
W124 or W210 wagon. Switch to the other German brand. The 210 wagon is big and can be bought pretty cheaply now; the 124 is more respected, will cost more and have more miles.
I currently own an E39 Touring after owning two old Volvos, one Saab, and one Mercedes W124 wagon. Trust me when I say: Whatever you do, don’t buy the E39. Buying one of those because you’re worried about maintenance on the older BMW is like trying to cure a whiskey habit by snorting coke. Lots of fun but not practical.
Is that LaBrea, Mya ? I used to shop at that 99c Store.
Nice catch! Yeah, I was at Jet Rag.
Love it.
Cars.com suggest that a 2008 BMW 3-series with 100,000+ miles is about $8,000 or so.
honda element. 07-08 ideally. your gig gear will fit, hell the whole band’s gear will fit. heck, my tandem bicycle fits inside with 1 seat popped out. nice driving dynamics. more maneuverable than a caravan. all are on the used market since they are oop for 5+yrs. looks and aerodynamics of a brick. but ride noise level is good with decent rolling rubber. 23-24 hwy.
I do love the element
Regarding the Element, If you fold down the rear seat backs, you can probably slide multiple guitars under them and they will be invisible to prying eyes.
Not sure about amps, so paste some Pampers box sides to the amp and no one will be the wiser. Also a conversation starter when on stage.
Now the bad news, as Elements are roomy Hondas with AWD (most of them) and they are OOP, and were also available with manual transmissions (but probably a low take rate), they command higher prices than sometimes warranted.
Debbie has an Element and I really like it. It reminds me of the Jungle Cruiser in the 12 episode 1937 serial called “Tim Tyler’s Luck”.
Mya HE Byrne
Keep the old BMW or trade for Subaru Outback
I’ll trade my 2003 Outback for it if you make it to Nashville 🙂