Changing our engine oil is a key part of regularly scheduled programming. It is what helps ensure the vitality of your engine but carving out the time for this very important chore can be vexatious.
This is a chore I’ve done myself much more often than paying to have it done. Yes, it can be messy and, yes, taking the old oil off to be recycled can be a hassle (although I know some who have oil-burning furnaces in their shops). Yet doing so does allow one time to commune with their steed, allowing opportunity for finding other emerging issues.
This also allows me opportunity to compare and contrast the layout of various vehicles as well as critique the decisions made by automotive designers and engineers.
For instance, when removing the oil filter from my 4.6 liter powered 1996 Ford Thunderbird, having an additional joint between my wrist and elbow would have been beneficial. At least the oil filter was drained by the time it was removed, its contents having ran down my arm and off my elbow.
The 1993 Buick Century I briefly owned required turning the front wheels to the left to access the oil filter on its 3.3 liter V6.
My 1987 Dodge Ram 250 was tops for oil changes. I could change the oil without raising the front end. Simply crawl underneath and have at it.
No innocent cars were damaged; all the heights were perfect.
While changing the oil on my ’63 Ford Galaxie is the most straightforward of anything I’ve ever owned, I’ve also learned to jack it up and avoid using ramps. I’ll blame this on it having a manual transmission.
When we bought our Volkswagen Passat in 2014, I swore I’d never change the oil in it myself. Well, things change. When I called the dealer earlier today, the only VW dealer between St. Louis and Kansas City, the service manager was profoundly rude and as helpful as influenza. My thought? Piss on you, I’ll do it myself.
It was enough different from all the other cars I’ve owned to make the job rather fun. Those cartridge oil filters are a great idea and the Torx head (a Torx 45 to be specific) oil plug was a nice change of pace.
At 47, crawling around on my back isn’t as drama-free as it used to be. I also know some localities frown upon this basic part of the do-it-yourself approach for various reasons. I also know we all have cycles of what we are willing and unwilling to perform ourselves.
Regardless, here is the question: Have you ever gone through a period of changing your own engine oil? And, do you still do so?
I’m 64 and I have always done all my own oil changes in my driveway and plan to continue to do so for as long as I am able. 47 hah you are just a kid.
Seppi, I’m right there with you. I’ll be 68 this year & still do my own oil changes. I have to admit that it’s easier to get down on the creeper then it is to get off of it.
Seppi: I, too ALWAYS do my own oil changes on my fleet, (downsized to just 5 vehicles now, LOL!) and I also rotate my tires at the same time. I’ve heard too many horror stories of minimum wage “Oil Change Techs” while rushing to comply w/ company orders, not putting oil into the engine, not putting the proper oil into the engine, stripping the drain nut, not changing the filter, etc., etc. It’s one thing that I still can and enjoy doing. 🙂
I also installed Fumoto drain valves in order to ease the process!
I still do. I can reach in and get the drain plug while the cars are on the ground but two of them require jacking or ramps to get far enough in to remove the oil filter; on the Dodge Intrepid, the oil filter is removed from above, under the hood.
Pep Boys is a mile away for oil disposal but I prefer to store the used oil and take it to an operating railway museum; they collect it, send it to an oil reprocessor, and get a reduced price on the fuel oil they buy and use in their steam locomotives.
Our Hyundai Santa Fe also had the oil filter on the top of the engine, really different when I’ve been doing it on the underside my whole life! Kind of nice, though.
That is the most unique use for used oil I’ve heard of! I wish I had that near me.
The museum used to directly burn the used oil in their steam locomotives but California air quality regulations will no longer permit that. Impurities aren’t good for the fluepipes, anyway. They can cause excessive ash deposits but for the short distances they operate, that’s not a real problem.
I used to always do it myself, but stopped when I got a 4Runner because it was too much hassle to remove the skid plate to access the filter. On a subsequent F-150 I did once in a while, but that thing took 7 quarts of semi-synthetic oil so it didn’t end up saving much, it was more about the satisfaction. On my current F-150 I’ll probably pass because it has a large plastic drain plug that can result in a torrent of oil going all over. Or maybe I’m just making excuses because I simply don’t feel like crawling around on the ground anymore, lol. But really, I think it comes down to the small difference in cost of having it done.
I’ve never changed oil in a car I couldn’t creep under without stands or ramps. Just never been comfortable under a raised car (and actually knew a guy who was killed doing that) so I avoid it as much as possible.
I can definitely understand the preference for high vehicles come oil change time. Not jacking is better. Sorry to hear about your friend who was killed, I would bet though that he skipped a safety step. Ramps are inFALLible as far as falling on top of you (I wanted to put a qualifier like virtually, but I can’t think of a circumstance where that could happen). Jackstands are almost as good, though I could imagine an exceedingly unlikely scenario of catastrophic double jackstand collapse, or perhaps improper placement.
I’ve always dreamed of having a lift. That would be the best!
I have been hot and cold on this. I used to do it regularly, and knew to buy the short PH43 oil filter instead of the PH1 for big Mopars because of clearance issues with the torsion bars.
I think my Kia is the only one I have not done a self-change on. I have done at least one on everything else I have owned. My Club Wagon was like your Dodge truck, in that it allowed the job without ramps or stands. My mechanic charges something like $29 for the job, and the difference between that number and the cost of oil and a filter on my own makes it hard to work up the enthusiasm to roll around on the ground.
That was a close one on your Galaxie. I’ll bet it was an impressive “bang”. I understand your problem. I have always used two feet on pedals – enough gas for uphill motion while I modulate speed with the brake. Adding a clutch pedal to that mix would be an issue. At least without burning off 1/32nd of an inch of clutch material for each use of the ramps. The foot pedal brake would be no help.
It seems like the price of getting an oil change hasn’t gone up as much as the price of oil at the auto parts store.
I do it on my 2011 Mustang with a manual. It has a hand brake, which helps.
Have I? Yes, but it’s been years and I’m fine with that. When I lived in the suburbs as a teenager, it was a matter of pride and joy to change the oil in various Slant-6 and 2.2/2.5 Mopars so I could make sure it was done exactly, precisely right according to whatever notions of correctitude were fashionable in my head at the moment.
Today’s more urban location, much(!) longer oil change intervals, and very long list of other, better things to do mean it’s not cost-effective to keep the tools and equipment on hand, even if I wanted to, which I don’t. I leave the oil changes to mechanics—real ones, thanks, not the dillweeds at Lube Monkey types of places. I still pick the brand of oil and filter, but beyond that, no more for me, thanks, I’m done.
Yes, my last time at a QuackLube was the time I made the special request that they be sure and lube the really expensive (third) set of upper and lower ball joints in my Club Wagon.
“There aren’t any fittings on the top ones” he said when done. I was absolutely sure he was wrong, but not sure enough to argue. But I was after I got home and crawled under the damned van and got my hands all greasy feeling them. I drove back and was perhaps not as pleasant as I should have been when I got down into the pit with the guy and pointed them out.
Last time I went to one, they didn’t screw the filter on tight enough, and my car dumped about a quart of fresh oil onto the driveway. That was about five years ago; I’ve done all subsequent oil changes myself.
Ha, yes I still do it on all of our vehicles. I figure it takes the same amount of time as bringing it in and I trust myself more than some 16 year old kid.
I’m 52 and as a concession to aging I did get some new plastic ramps for Christmas this year. I got my old ones when I was 16 by cutting a railroad tie diagonally. They weigh over 50 pounds each and are getting a bit much to slug around.
Also my head seems to be getting heavier, it’s harder to hold up when crawling around under a vehicle. Maybe I’m getting smarter 🙂
Getting rid of the old oil is a snap, there’s a community recycling center I can drop the old oil at for free, and I drive by it on my way to work.
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/uncategorized/cc-outtake-multi-grade-fluid-change/
I still remember the article I read in Popular Science Magazine in the early 1970s, in which the editors helpfully suggested using old oil to kill the weeds on your property. 🙂
I remember my Dad pouring the used oil on weeds. Try that now and you’ll get thrown in jail!
My father did that as well. All manner of automotive fluids were dumped on the ground around our shed. It formed a zone of blackened soil where nothing grew. I think that the attitude of “it came from the ground, it goes back into the ground” prevailed back then. Thinking back, I’m glad we didn’t have well water.
Now I teach Environmental Science, perhaps, at some level to counteract the damage done by previous generations. My students are amazed to learn of my dad’s little Superfund site.
I have always changed my own oil. It gives me the opportunity to look over the car and address other maintenance needs before they become problems. And, I like the convenience of doing it at home rather than having to schedule an appointment and wait around while someone else does it. Our newer cars, with their long change intervals, worry me a bit because I pay less attention to them. Fortunately they also have reduced maintenance needs across the board.
It gives me the opportunity to look over the car and address other maintenance needs before they become problems
Bingo..this is really my counter when people look at me oddly when I tell them I change my own oil (or mow my own lawn, etc.). You get a seldom seen look under your car every once in awhile to see if anything else (CV boots, leaking fluids, etc) is amiss. For me it isn’t just whether I “trust” the guy to do the job properly…it is that I don’t trust that he’d tell me if something else needed my attention (unless it is a repair shop that might profit if that “something else” needed attention). If I do end up taking it to a shop to have something repaired (like I did last year with my power steering rack) I’ve preconfirmed what needs doing, else if I’m up to handling it myself, I can start to order parts (usually do that mail order as my local dealer often doesn’t have the part I need and I have to wait for delivery anyhow).
RE: Mowing the lawn, I guess I could forgo actual mowing and just gaze at my house but it kind of makes me feel a bit silly (and a bit idle) doing so, so when I mow the lawn I just look around…and often find something that needs my attention. Apparently my Grandfather used to stare at his house on occasion; guess I try to avoid the staring by looking at it on the fly while I’m doing something else.
It works! I remember when dirt roads were oiled for dust control. People used to dump waste oil into storm drains. The mindset was that it came out of the ground anyway so it can’t do any damage. Stuff like this lead to the EPA being formed.
For years waste oil was used as dust control in Times Beach, Missouri. Then in the 70’s it was discovered the oil contained large amounts of PCB. Can you say EPA Super Fund site?
So long Times Beach.
January 1963; see attached.
hahahaha this is gold.
Black gold.
Texas tea.
I was an avid reader of PS, and taught myself to change oil in my family’s ’66 Buick and ’69 Javelin. I did exactly what was recommended and poured the oil in the ground in our back yard. Yikes! Never thought Popular Science would mislead me!
Love it. Just pour the oil in and voila. Now what about all the other chemicals and metals that follow the oil into the ground?
My grandpa dumped his waste oil behind his garden shed – did it for decades. I did, too, while living there when I attended college (Grandpa passed the summer after my freshman year). At some point before I married and moved out, I started taking the used oil to the auto parts store to be recycled, but don’t remember what prompted the change.
I do my car and my wife’s oil changes…and every other service or repair I can by myself. I rotate the tires myself, too, and take a good look at the condition of my brakes, CV boots, axles, etc. I consider it a victory to have a car that stays out of the shop.
I always change the oil myself on the old F100, and lube the chassis and U joints. It’s super easy, and sliding under it is a breeze. No need for ramps or jacks.
I had stopped doing the xB, but then not long ago I saw it was leaking a bit of oil. Slid under it and saw it was coming from the oil filter. It was very loose. And the oil level was waayy down. I went and got oil and filter and did it myself. It’s actually very easy, no need for ramps.
I’ve not yet done the Promaster or the TSX.
I used to. A year ago I moved to a place where it’s not allowed. At age 55, I’m fine with that.
I change my own oil on all my cars because when I do it, its done right. Too many jerks at the local jiffylube to trust they will not cut corners. Also, how do you know if you are getting the correct oil when someone else does it? They could be putting any type of garbage in it, it all looks the same. And FINALLY, I have yet to get a car back from a dealer or some other oil change establishment that DIDN’T overfill the oil. I hate that so much.
amen.
For my 2007 Mustang and my wife’s 2009 Lancer, yes, I do (and have done) all of the oil changes for the entire time that we’ve had these cars.
For the 2016 Civic, I always* take it to the dealer, as I’d only be saving about 15 dollars by doing it myself, as this is my first car to ever take full synthetic oil. I’ve heard that Honda’s really prefer OEM fluids, *so even the one time I did it myself, I bought everything I needed from their parts department. That’s how I know the exact difference is $15.
Plus, the Civic has one of those goofy plastic shields to remove, so that adds an extra step (although not that difficult, it’s more of a pain than anything).
Thanks CAFE Regulations!
However, I shouldn’t bitch. 38 to 40 mpg on the highways IS pretty nice. ;o)
Up until I had my Honda Fit, I took pride in doing my own oil changes. However, about that time I realised it really wasn’t worth it. Just the price of the oil and filter are well over half the price of having it done at a shop. While a car is on the shop and up in the air, it gives an opportunity to inspect the car, especially the brakes. Getting rid of used oil is really a hassle where I live and the filters are even worse.
I almost always do it myself. The only time I ever paid to have it done was when I lived in an apartment complex that stipulated in the lease that tenants are not allowed to do automotive maintenance in the parking lot. I assume they didn’t want oil spills in their parking lot. Although once or twice I did break the rules and do an oil change in my parking spot.
Now that I’m a homeowner disposing of used oil is a breeze, too. The city I live in has a “household hazardous waste” collection program. When I do an oil change I go online and schedule a pickup. On the scheduled day I leave the oil, filter, and any other material that shouldn’t go to a landfill (such as fluorescent light bulbs, batteries, etc.) in a cardboard box ant the end of my driveway and someone from the city comes and takes it away for proper disposal.
I have been changing the oil on my vehicles for years. Most of them are pretty easy and I find mechanics do not tend to give what they consider “beaters” a whole lot of respect. Keeping them away seems to extend a crappy car’s life. And I know it is at least done well. The wife has had some nicer vehicles that I have not touched in recent years.
In general I don’t like ramps – they give me the willies for reasons demonstrated by your Ford. Sold them after one use many years ago.
My old Mazda 2 was brilliant to do changes on. Filter under the engine, easy to access, no need for ramps or jacks. By far my favourite to do so far.
The current TSX is not too bad. Filter under the engine but a minor pain to get to being over the CV axle. Needs jacked up.
I can’t recall the Tercel so it must have been easy enough but does require a jack.
I remember one vehicle (but not which one) had an upside down filter accessed from the top side – good access but a guaranteed mess that one.
It was our RX7s, I used to punch a hole in the top and wait for it to drain down.
Ah probably that for me as well as I owned two of those. Your solution is smarter than whatever I did.
On the plus side the alternator swap was super easy.
My youngest son does it himself, kudos.
I used to always do it myself, but now that I’m looking to expand my garage and add a workshop with a two-post lift, no reason not to go back to doing myself.
Only on my classic ride, with the help of a set of these (see picture below).
The daily driver goes to the nearby Toyota dealership. Service every 15,000 km (9,375 miles), naturally an oil change is included; 375,000 km service pretty soon.
I bought a slightly used car from one of the biggest dealerships in my state. They did a fresh oil change on it before I took possession. When I did my first oil change on it, I could see that the oil filter was leaking. I reached up and with 3 fingers proceeded to remove the filter with no wrench. Had I gone much longer there is no doubt that this story would not have ended so well. There are too many wrench monkeys out there and not enough mechanics. I do what ever work that I can on my cars.
When I was in college and for a some years after, I changed the oil myself. I haven’t done it myself for a long time. My livelihood depends on my fingers working precisely and quickly, and I long ago decided not to take undue risks with my hands.
After the warranty period, I used to always do it myself. Now I will pay to have it done in the winter, rather than shuffling vehicles out of storage to get garage access. But come spring, I find it a pleasant diversion.
Can’t rely on the dealer to do an oil change properly on our ’15 Corolla and ’17 Camry (it’s free also, BTY). After the oil change, the oil was dark (insufficient drain and other) and overfilled (several possibilities) and the drain plug and oil filter cartridge cover were too tight (Toyota has since gone back to spin-on filters for these vehicles). Speed is king to the repair shops; quality, somewhat less important. I’m back to doing OC’s myself.
I used to, but now I just take my cars somewhere. My daily drivers go to a decent oil change place, the nicer stuff goes to my mechanic (usually while I’m getting other things done) but for me it’s too much of a hassle. The cold weather in winter, disposing of the oil, the mess, the time.. Not worth it. I change it on my motorcycles still but it’s much easier and way less oil everywhere.
Because of youth and economic necessity I did everything on my cars except for internal engine matters. Fluids, exhausts, brakes, etc. As I got older more and more of those duties were relegated to dealers or repair shops, to include oil changes.
Now, changing the air filter keeps me in my delusion that I can still turn a wrench.
If it weren’t for YouTube, I wouldn’t even know WHERE the cabin filter is, let alone know to change it out.
I came up with an idea that some others might find helpful. Changing oil, we’ve all had those annoying spills that just make a mess when the oil sloshes over the side of your drain pan. I taped up the hole in a 28 inch hot water heater drain pan. I put my regular drain pan into the hot water heater pan and drain the old oil into that. The water heater pan is there to catch whatever doesn’t make it or spills from the primary drain pan. It works slick.
Secondary containment. That’s a real good idea, especially for filter removal. Most of my vehicles are fitted with Fumoto valves in place of drain plugs. They allow tool-free, no-mess draining.
I like the top-mounted oil filters on some new vehicles. Reusable plastic housing, no oil leakage, only a gasket and a relatively small fabric inner filter to discard.
I had a good laugh over the use of used oil for garage heating up North. Both cars parked in my garage gives me 120 plus degrees. I installed a series of solar attic fans for my South facing attatched garage to reduce the heat load on the house one gets in SW Fliorida. I used to feel the heat radiating through the walls. Saves 50 or so a month. Dang hoa forbids carports (and fruit trees!) otherwise I’d park outside. I had stored upside down a box of my prized Yankee candles in my garage when I first moved here- they liquified.. My heat pump hot water heater also helps.
For the same reason the garage is so hot, I usually get oil changes done unless it’s a brisk winter day under 85. One car has had dealer lifetime oil changes for 10 years anyways, and I always spill used oil too. The local car part emporium is kind enough to change air filters, batteries and wiper blades for free with purchase. I do very little now, except for brake pads, light bulbs and other easy tasks.
I now alternate between the dealer and myself every 3000 miles. Having a record of the dealer chasing my oil has helped me with warranty claims. Another reason is when I have the oil changed at the dealer that will rotate my tires free of charge.
Always.
Interesting that there are several comments about the oil change places not putting the filter on tight. I haven’t had that but I have experienced the opposite many times, where I was barely able to get the dang thing off. I now have 3 different filter wrenches because of that.
I do it myself, because of the cost of synthetic oil changes at the Quik-E-Lube is around $80 and it costs me $25 for oil and filter plus 30 minutes of time. I also get a good feeling from actually doing it myself. But then, it’s about like mowing the lawn, or making a nice meal for yourself. It can be nice to pay to have someone do it for you, but at the end of the day, it makes you really feel like you have accomplished something and you look at your yard with a bit more pride, or enjoy that meal just that much more.
Other than the couple “free” oil changes that came with more recent car purchases, I’ve always done my own and still do. As seen in the pic, I invested in a set of QuickJacks last year, that make raising the SS and TourX a breeze. The RAM 2500 has clearance a-plenty to roll underneath on the creeper.
All three use the same filter, which makes that part easy. I usually buy three oil changes worth at a time, including full synthetic Mobil 1. The Ram takes 8 quarts, the SS takes 7 and the TourX takes 6, so it’s not cheap, but I know they are all done right.
I also do the tractors and small engines, usually in late Autumn when I’m done with most of them for the season. The Boomer 8N is the hardest due to multiple fuel and hydraulic filters.
I remember my Dad propping his empty oil cans (paperboard) up to drain into old Mogen David wine bottles – he always made a big deal when he had accumulated an extra quart.
@DougD – you didn’t mention changing the oil in your Beetle, so I will. Just follow the Idiot procedure! Jack it up, drain the oil, adjust the valves, lower it down, fill the oil. (c:
I did link to my VW oil changing post. Easiest oil change ever, especially if you dont worry about the valves 🙂
I read right past it (blush)! I’ll blame it on the dementia!
Oh, I meant to add that I collect my waste oil in a 55-gal drum and swap it for an empty with a local farmer that has a waste oil heater in his machine shed. That’s about three years worth of oil changes at my current cadence.
Considering the cost of 5 or 6 quarts of oil, an oil filter, the logistics of acquiring the supplies, proper disposal, the time involved, and unforeseen hassles…no, I do not change my oil myself. We got plenty of oil change and quick lube places around that specialize in it for about $40, $50 tops. And they do a complete look-over of the vehicle. All in under 30 minutes. Yes, they could make a mistake, but do could I. However, I do double check to make sure the filter doesn’t leak, that always seemed to be the one thing to watch for when I did it in a previous life.
From my first car up through my thirties. Then I got in too much of a hurry with my new ’87 Celica twin-cam engine and ruined it.
Couldn’t see the oil filter, only changed it by feel. Mistakenly left the old filter’s rubber gasket stuck to the block, screwed the new filter over top of it. A month later the filter came loose at high RPM and dumped most all the oil before I could hit the key. Major engine rebuild, expensive and painful.
Now the dealer does our Prius, the Mini shop does Lily’s Cooper S, I take the Miata to a shop in my neighborhood and the electric Fiat, well you know. In fact that oil change trauma might be one of the countless reasons I love electric cars.
I do my own on my ’95 F-150, and I did it on my X-Types. I haven’t had a chance to do it on the XE yet (and the computer says it has 12,000 more miles before it’s due!), but from what I can tell it’ll be a pain in the rear. Shielding underneath, not sure what else. Oh, and it doesn’t have a damned dipstick even. I’ll probably end up paying for that just to save the heartburn.
I change the oil on my project cars and on my partner’s cars. My daily is taken to a shop (normally the dealer) so I can keep up with regular maintenance. The shop truck is taken to a shop too, because I don’t have to pay for the changes myself thankfully.
I’ve pretty much done every oil change on all of my cars since the dawn of my car ownership. There have been a few times when I’ve taken it in somewhere, because I was in a rush and didn’t have the time. Some thoughts over the years.
1977 Dodge Aspen, slant 6: That always made a mess. The oil filter is on the side of the engine, pointing downward at a weird angle. There was no removing the oil filter without all that oil draining all over the side of the engine and the K member.
1993 Mercury Topaz, 4cyl: The oil filter pointed off the front of the engine (towards the radiator), almost perpendicular to the ground. My hand was small enough to squeeze in between the fan and the filter, and always had to push against the fan shroud just a little bit to flex it enough to get the filter out through the top of the engine bay.
2005 Mustang GT: I had changed the oil and filter so many times on so many vehicles. One oil change on my Mustang, I start it up to confirm no leaks and oil starts spewing everywhere!!! I immediately shut it off and see oil pouring from the filter. I had never had a filter gasket stay stuck to the block when removing a filter…. never. So I never checked for it. It stuck, and I tightened the filter against it which didn’t seal well. Lesson learned.
2006 Magnum SRT8: After several vehicles where the oil interval was 5000+ miles, it was strange going back to an engine that was 3mo/3K miles between engine oil/filter changes. I also started using an app called “Car Minder” to log all services and repairs. I’ve done 33 oil changes on the car in the past 5 1/2 years.
I do most of mine, at least every other one. I always use a Hyundai filter and Mobil 1 oil. It’s a bigger pain to do on the Elantra than any other car I’ve ever had because it has a full aero tray under the front that has to be removed. It’s still less than 45 minutes. I park the car on ramps the night before, then change it first thing. Unlike all the previous (American ) cars I’ve had, the Hyundai filter gasket is triangular in profile and has to be much tighter. I punched a screwdriver into a couple of them to get them off before I got a claw type wrench.
I grew up watching my Dad do his, so it seemed like the thing to do. It does help you to start understanding some auto basics, and when cars had zerks and other things to do, oil changes were the logical start to learning some DIY.
Also, oil was about a buck a quart and the filter maybe 2-3 dollars. DIY usually saved some money.
I did use some of the chain quick stores when I first got too busy for my own changes. There was usually some hard sell on upgrades and debatable services. After reading the techs are under pressure to generate $100.00 service tickets, I moved on.
In recent years, with five Fords, two dealers are constantly sending me for coupons for Ford’s “The Works”. Oil, filter, rotation, and most valuable to me, someone checking the brakes. The coupons get as low as $35.00 (usually $45.00) if I’m not in the shop for a while, I can’t beat that DIY with supplies from Wal-Mart.
And, I do dispose of oil properly, so taking it to the shop saves me that step.
Yes, it is very hard to beat the value of Ford’s Quick Lane, especially with their coupon. They are better equipped to manage the belly (aero) pans. Also, I use the local Lincoln dealer because of their comfortable lounge/waiting area.
I did it occasionally on my 76 Courier, very occasionally on my 87 Mustang, and usually on my 96 Cherokee (it was really easy). Never on my other cars. Working under a lifted vehicle – jack stands or no – makes me pretty nervous, and besides I have to much other stuff to do.
But I do also avoid Jiffy Lube et all like the plague after one overfilled my Miata, causing huge plumes of smoke after I drove about a mile. Luckily I have an honest trusted mechanic nearby. They always get a nice Christmas package from us.
I learned to change my own oil with my first car, and have continued to do so whenever possible. This last weekend reminded me why. While replacing the front brakes on my son’s Fit, I went ahead and changed the oil. He had mentioned not being satisfied with the service at the quick-change place they had taken it to, and I was able to confirm this opinion. The drain plug was attached so tightly that I had to jack the car even higher, and get my breaker socket in order to have proper leverage with which to loosen it. Fortunately, the oil filter had not been overtightened, but when it looked to be half the length of the new filter I checked and, sure enough, it was the wrong filter. I don’t think it hurt the car-the Fit has a computer that tells you when to change the oil-but I did get to practice cursing in about four different languages, something I would rather avoid. I do not begrudge anyone who does not do his own work-it is sometimes hard to find good weather for the job, and the ground seems to be getting harder and colder with each passing year. But I would recommend finding a good mechanic to do the work. So that it gets done.
I do lack Dad’s old system for disposing of used oil-fill a five gallon bucket and store the spades and shovels therein; pour the rest over the tandem disc blades and the plow shares (on top of the old grease already in place) to keep them from getting excessively rusty over Winter. I have found a big, black, plastic container with the drain built into the side which works well. When full I can just take it to my regular auto parts store and dispose of it there.
THREAD DRIFT!!
Is there a definitive answer to, ” Why do you wipe a film of oil onto the gasket of an oil filter before you install it?”
I have always understood that it helps it seal. I don’t know the science behind it or if it helps but it is very little effort to do so.
It helps it seal and if you’ve ever spun a filter on bone dry it feels like you’re going to tear it in the last snugging turn. I’ve installed it both dry and wet without issues before though, but it doesn’t hurt to add the film and it might theoretically hurt if you don’t, so it’s just good practice.
I assumed it is so it comes off easier next time.
Yes this!!! The next oil change won’t require driving the beefiest screw driver that you have through the old oil filter so that you have leverage to remove it. It’s kind of like cooking. If you don’t oil the pan, everything sticks.
Also helps make sure the gasket stays with the filter and you don’t end up with a mess like MagnumSRT8 Brian described
It also allows the plastic cap to come off on a cartridge oil filter without doing $3000 of engine damage. Fixed a Camry for Jiffy Lube 2 weeks ago. Hint: don’t use a chisel as the aluminum housing/ lower oil pan isn’t that rigid.
Also have replaced the oil filter assemblies on two 3.6 Mopars last year for them. Plastic is much weaker on both sides. Thank You Jiffy Lube….. I do my own changes.
I am 56 but have the edge of being the Lead Technician so I have full shop to use as needed after hours and weekends.
To prevent damaging a dry seal as you tighten the gasket against the flange.
A sobering reminder, Jason, of $$-vs-time-vs-satisfaction and many other variables.
With my 1960s-70s-80s cars, I did indeed do this, eventually making all the rookie mistakes, I reckon. Do I correctly remember my ’67 Chevy 283 with an (external) metal canister that held the actual filter cartridge?
Somewhere around your age (year 2000) I gave up—-probably a tight-clearance problem Taurus? I’m still dealer-loyal with the changes, and it’s a professional pair of eyes under the engine/chassis a few times a year, so peace of mind totally worth it all.
A time or two I went to the XXXX-Lube quick-change place and regretted it even while handing over the keys.
I looked at your Galaxie driven off the ramps, and remember the experience, though I can’t blame a manual transmission. No matter what setups of ramps, jacks, etc. I used, I was never fully comfortable under a car.
Fun survey topic today!
I used to change my own oil many years ago. Most of my cars have been rear-drive Fords or Nissans, and filter/drainplug access was usually easy-peasy. Dad was a mechanic and had a pit in his carport at home, which was highly useful. But I (and Dad) stopped changing our own oil years ago, as the regulations surrounding disposal made it difficult to dispose of the used stuff in a suburban environment. It’s far quicker and more cost effective nowadays to have garages do the oil change.
Hawkes bay rubbish dumps have oil recycle tanks so disposal is easy, so do most transport companys that have service facilities for their trucks, they dont seem to mind a few litres of old oil from my cars turning up.
Yes. It takes me less than 20 minutes in the driveway, what else am I going to do with that time once every 6 months, watch a sitcom? Every parts store that sells oil takes in waste oil, so that’s not an issue.
I must admit, I’ve never learned how to. I probably should at some point, but we’ve always just taken our cars to the dealer or our favourite independents to have that sort of thing done. Especially with our Audis, I would hate to screw that up! The most mechanical thing I have ever done to a car is help my friend with his E39 540i M-Sport 6spd: we changed out the brakes and did some minor suspension work. Oh, and a lightbulb. But otherwise, nothing.
I frequently change the oil and filter on my 1993 Camry myself and it helps that it is so easy to do. Sometimes the most difficult part is just waiting for the Oregon weather to cooperate. Buying the oil from Fred Meyer and the filter from O’Reilly’s still saves me money compared to Valvoline Instant Oil Change. Plus, I don’t have to worry about components that are not tightened, wrong oil amount, wrong oil weight, and awkward up sells.
The 2004 Sienna takes a bit more planning since the exhaust manifold will burn my flesh off during the oil filter removal and asbestos gloves are so uncool these days. I just let the vehicle sit for several hours or overnight before changing the oil. The only reason why I lift up either my vehicles is to elevate the front end so more of the oil drains out once I have removed drain plug. At least the Sienna takes five quarts of oil so buying and adding oil is easy without having to deal with decimals. Also, it takes 5W-30 like the Camry so that makes life easier as well. The last shop that did an oil change on the Sienna used an FVP Oil Filter which is a inferior brand in my opinion and that irked me.
I did my own oil changes for about 20 years; none of my cars required raising the vehicle in any way, the for one I needed to steer the wheels to full lock, unscrew part of the fender liner, and reach in through the wheelwell to reach the filter. Advancing age, and buying a new car that needed synthetic oil led me to having a shop change it for the last 13 years. I recall when oil wasn’t much more than $1/quart, and about $6 for the filter. A complete DIY oil change cost only $10, far less than having it done for me. But with the price of synthetic oil, the cost savings of changing it myself are somehow much less convincing.
Yes, I’ve been changing my oil myself since I could drive and doing 99% of my own maintenance. I like to know what’s being put in and on my vehicles and will continue to do so as long as I’m able to do it. I use Mobil 1 extended protection and a Motorcraft filter every 6-7k miles on my Ranger.
Nope, not any more. I used to change my own oil as well as perform whatever repairs I was capable of. At some point I stopped working on my cars, presumably when they got to complicated for me to deal with. Of course at about this same time I was able to afford newer cars that didn’t require as much maintenance as the well used vehicles of my past. For all oil changes I now take our cars to a locally owned chain of tire stores/repair shops. My wife taught many of the family members who are now running the business when she was teaching high school. For 35-40 dollars I can get the oil changed and the tires rotated, money well spent in my estimation. In all the years they have worked on our cars they have never screwed anything up, another strong mark in their favor.
I haven’t changed the oil in any of our cars for a long time. Years ago when I had an 81 Mustang Ghia with the straight six engine the oil plug and filter could be removed by opening the hood and reaching down to the side-mounted oil filter. The drain plug was also close by. The drain pan was slid underneath the front of the car without having to jack it up.
Of all the cars we’ve owned over the years this Mustang was the easiest car to perform an oil change. The picture shows its condition after I bought it back. Sadly too much rust and not enough dollars for me to restore her.
Yes I change my own oil as needed on my lunch break at work. I am fortunate because:
A. I am a mechanic.
B. Ecotec 2.2 litre engines are super easy.
C. The shop is heated by a waste oil burner.
I’m 66 and still always do it myself and it is not about money, but I do shop for oil and filter deals. Walmart usually has the best everyday price on name brand stuff anyway.
Dealers and “iffy” lube places are under pressure to upsell until the bill is above $100 and I still trust myself rather than a rushed technician to do it right. The local Toyota and Honda dealers have lied about brake lining wear when I was in for recall work.
The ’92 BMW 325i was a dream to work on when it came to scheduled maintenance. The top mounted cartridge filter was quick and no mess. Air filter took seconds to change and the spark plugs were lined up right on top.
By contrast, every Toyota had the oil filter in a messy location and hard to reach with my short arms. Paul, how is the xB?
Disposal of oil and filters is easy in this urban area. The county, auto parts and repair places all take them.
I get to check under the hood and under the vehicle for any early signs of trouble while I am at it, belts, hoses, CV joint boots, etc.