One of my hobbies is acquiring free or cheap cars, and either fixing them up and using them or selling them to someone that needs them. This is not a full time thing for me, being an engineer these days, but as a former mechanic, it’s something that I like to do.
I do far too much driving for my day job to use these secondary vehicles as a daily driver. I usually have a newer car to use as my primary vehicle (for example, my 2012 “Datsun” pictured), whose job is to get me to work without incident, and not drink too much gas doing it. However, this hobby can sometimes get me a decent second car that offers some utility that my primary car doesn’t, and hopefully, on the cheap. I do fix these project cars right, but try not to get deeper into one, than what I can sell it for. It’s not really about making money, as this isn’t my day job, but I do like getting a car to someone that needs it, or getting use out of a utility vehicle for my various home and car projects.
So that brings me to my current project, which I have been working on periodically for the past year, a 1992 Ford Explorer XLT. Purchased from a coworker and friend of mine for less than the cost of the four new Goodyear Wranglers it came with; it is a well equipped, but high mileage vehicle that was sitting unused in a parking garage in downtown Wilmington, Delaware for the past 5 years.
The Exploder, as it’s affectionately known, was their family hauler for many years, until time caught up with it, and it was parked in favor of newer Ford SUVs. It did however reward their family with 269,000 miles of service on it’s original engine and transmission. Leaking power steering hoses and bad u-joints in it’s Dana-manufactured twin traction beam front end, are what finally caused them to park it. On the up side, it came with 4 new tires, working 4 wheel drive, a good running 4.0L V6, a limited slip 8.8 inch rear dif with 3.73 gears, converted manual locking front hubs (used to be automatic), and the towing package (but only a bumper hitch).
Since acquiring my latest project, I fear that I broke the cardinal rule of putting more into it then I can get back out of it. But I did so thinking that I’d get some use out of this one, as I don’t currently have another truck or SUV. And for the brief period of time that I had the Explorer roadworthy, I did use it for several runs to the local home improvement store and even used it to move some heavy logs around on my property. As shown in the pictures, it had quite a lot of rot on the body and spring perches from frequent use on the Delaware beaches, all of which had to be repaired to pass Pennsylvania’s state inspection.
I am an amateur when it comes to bodywork, but I used the Explorer to practice my skills. I welded in two new “dog legs” (the section of the rocker panel around the rear doors and wheel arches), and fabricated my own driver’s side rocker, and several other patches underneath out of 16 gauge steel. A little plastic filler, some sanding and a rattle-can paint job, and I think it came out halfway decent for a beater truck.
I also cut out and replaced both rotted front spring perches, put in new front coils, all four shocks, axle bushings, front axle u-joints, steering box (junkyard replacement), power steering pump, all new brake lines and hoses, removed the non-functioning rear ABS module, full tune up, and replaced the valve cover gaskets. I successfully got it through the state and emissions inspection, and it drives well for an Explorer with that kind of miles on it. On the downside, the AC still doesn’t work, and it has a leak around the windshield that I didn’t get to yet.
Now on to my conundrum. After getting a few hundred miles out of it, I am thinking that the transmission is shot. While I’m sure moving the logs in the picture above didn’t help, the overdrive didn’t work from the moment I started driving it. This could be a stuck solenoid, but at that mileage, it could be a burned up band, and the A4LD trans is known for grenading its OD clutch hub, among other things. It also starts puking transmission fluid out of the bellhousing when it gets hot (after driving it for a few miles). It’s either the front pump seal, torque converter, or something that requires removal of the trans. It may be that the trans is getting hot from the OD slipping and fluid gets pushed past the seals. Regardless, it’s serious enough that it lost a couple of quarts of fluid the last time I drove it.
So what should I do? I didn’t, and really still don’t feel like putting more money into this little truck, but I’m pretty far along to call it quits also. It doesn’t look too bad, but it’s still a rusty old Explorer with high miles, and I’m not the type to try to sell a problem to someone else. I could probably come close to break even if I parted it out, but that’s just as much work as swapping out the trans for another, or attempting a rebuild. I’ve never rebuilt an auto trans before, the C4 in my 65 Mustang was going to be the first one I attempt, but should I experiment with the A4LD in this one? What do you guys think?
Well, if it has served you well (other than the trans) you might as well keep it considering the work you have thus far put into it. I wouldn’t think a transmission would be too expensive, especially since you would be swapping it out your self and not paying shop rates. Plus, if you repair/rebuild it yourself you will save even more and you have nothing to lose (and a good trans to gain!) by experimenting. Also, I have to say your body work looks pretty darned good for being amateur!
Thanks for the compliment on my bodywork. The camera doesn’t show a lot of the imperfections.
You are most welcome bud. Also, I don’t usually like red vehicles (the brighter the red, the less like it lol) but I have to say that shade of red is growing on me and looks good on this Explorer! In my humble opinion lol 🙂
Carlo, it looks nice enough, and I understand the interest in keeping it going. I envy you being able to do the work you do, I wish I could. That said, this Explorer has led a good long life; scrap it. In my experience a car like this has got money pit written all over it. Probably not what you want to hear.
You should put a new junkyard transmission in it, paint it like the Explorers from the first Jurassic Park movie, and enter it in the 24 Hours of LeMons.
That’s about the most brilliant thing I’ve heard! If you still want to practice welding, what better than installing your own rollcage? Or enter it in a few rallies!
Ha ha. The thought did occur to me. That or make it into a rock crawler. Both of those options involve putting money into it, though.
I am also impressed with your bodywork skills. A very nice result.
Surely you understand that if you replace the tranny, a head gasket will let go within 300 miles. But now, you don’t have much choice. Can you use a tax deduction from donating it? Or how about a local technical school for the tranny rebuild? Of course, if you want to practice on something before your Mustang, I guess this would be as good as anything to practice on.
Tough call.
Yup. That is precisely what bothers me. 269,000 miles on that engine and everything bolted to it. If this were a car, it would be an easy decision to dump it. I think it’s only because it’s useful that I went as far as I did with it.
I could certainly use a good tax donation, but that’s not really going to amount to much.
Leaning towards dumping it or trading for an equally worthless pickup. 🙂
They made a lot of these, but they are starting to get scarce on the road, Cash for Clunkers was an apocalypse for these, I was looking at the first picture and thinking how ubiquitous these used to be, there were tons in every mall parking lot everywhere in the country.
Even if you get only half of what you’ve got into it, sell it.
Chalk any loss up as training expenses. It was good for something to practice on (particularly the body work), but it definitely sounds like your returns are going to be severely diminishing if you keep it.
There no money in fixing Exploders here nobody will buy the results they are worth more as parts. Put firmly in the trash category when new by the Ford Territory junk like Explorers simply wont sell, You do good bodywork but here any non factory welding must be inspected to ensure it meets crash regulations and this car would have been already in a scrapyard with rust like that, just scrap it.
I understand that you guys have different rules over there, but don’t forget that these are full frame vehicles and the rust was just on the body, not the frame. If this was a pickup with a rusty bed, I wouldn’t even have to fix it. Our state inspection in my state prohibits rust-through into the cabin and that is only to protect you from exhuast gases. I could have fixed it with bondo over duct tape if it’s not a structural part.
They are not concerned with seatbelt mounting points?
Yes, they would be concerned with any rot on a structural member. Rocker panels on a full frame vehicle are not often a structural issue though. We are allowed to fix a car ourselves, and the quality of a repair would ultimately be up to the judgement of the inspection mechanic. I am actually a licensed state inspection mechanic in PA (but can’t inspect my own cars if I’m not working at a licensed shop anymore) and it depends on the vehicle and the work. On a truck based vehicle with a ladder frame, I’d accept more rust than on a unibody vehicle, as long as nothing structural is compromised or there are perforations into the cabin.
Over here with a working transmission that truck could bring $1500 from the first caller on a craigslist ad. If you are willing to hold out a bit it could even bring $2000.
“I’m pretty far along to call it quits also…”
Econ major JPC didn’t say it, but I will: Sunk costs are sunk costs! Money already spent doesn’t influence future cost/benefit analysis! 🙂
A “worthless” old F150 with the big six is a better place to sink your time and money, no?
Ha. JPC was being kind I think.
It’s really more the labor that I have in it that bothers me. But I suppose that sunk labor is the same thing. And yes, a 2wd pickup would really fit my needs better. A workhorse with a 300 I6 would do nicely.
I picked up a clean one from an old man, it was his brothers, it sat around for almost a decade, it needed new tires and a service and it was good to go, 3 on the tree and everything.
I like how you used it to practice your welding skills. I would use it one last time to practice your transmission rebuilding skills. Then use or dump it.
I like the technical school suggestion. I hate to say it but I kinda like these old trucks. Had a white 92 with the six and it wasn’t bad. Did what it was supposed to do which was drive. Though I wouldn’t sink a whole lot of cash in it. Sell the tires on Craig’s list. Someone like me would buy them.
If you want to learn how to rebuild an AT this would be as good as anything. The A4LD is pretty much a C3 with an OD and the C3 is pretty much a scaled down version of the C4 so a lot of the process will carry over to rebuilding a C4. The rebuild kit should be less than the cost of a junkyard trans too. Otherwise I’d say part it out and scrap what doesn’t sell in a month or so. The rear axle is always in demand by Jeep guys.
I’ve heard these are similar to a c3. I may yank out the trans and see what’s wrong with it. Then I can rebuild if the metal parts are ok, or part it out if not.
Seems like a good plan, I’d make a good video of the engine running and maybe even doing a compression and/or oil pressure test before you yank out the trans. That way if you do decide to part it out and scrap the rest you’ve got good documentation to prove it is a good runner when you go to sell it. Once the trans it’s only another 30 min to get the engine out IF you aren’t putting it back in. Yes it has 269K on it but those engines will go well into the 300K range and occasionally top 400K so with proof it’s a good runner it could sell for $2-300 very quickly.
I second this suggestion.
The auto trans isn’t the science fiction device that most make it out to be. If 24 year old me (I wish I was still 24) could rebuild a th200 than there is no reason a more mature and seasoned shadetree couldn’t very successfully rebuild the trans in this Exploder
Tough call! You are clearly a brave man, tackling that kind of rust repair. The pictures make it look pretty good. So I’m going to say…junkyard transmission. Swapping a RWD transmission is nothing compared to the work you’ve already put into it. It’s cheaper than replacing it with something similar, which will have a whole new list of problems.
Yes it’s a risk with the high miles, but there are plenty of these trucks driving around with higher miles on them. These are actually pretty reliable. My stepdad has a 1995 he’s been driving since 1996. He takes good care of it and all repairs have been simple and relatively cheap.
Edit: An amateur trans rebuild would be good too, if you were already thinking of trying your hand at it. Go for it!
Buy another like-vinatge Exploder that needs an engine but has a good transmission since you’ve already got the rest of the parts.
I agree with a lot of the comments on here. You’re too far into it to sell it for junk. I wouldn’t want to monkey with a transmission rebuild either. If it’s just a home improvement store beater, swap in a junkyard transmission and you’re probably good for several thousand more miles and you’ll only spend about $200 on the whole deal if you’re willing to put it in yourself. Nice rust repair BTW. It looked pretty rotten down there.
agree with many folks here, swap in a good but junkyard sourced transmission and then throw it on Craigslist for $1800. Find someone in need, or a person that can use it more than you can and is working thru some hard times, and cut it loose to them VERY cheap. Consider the transmission more tuition on the art of low buck beater sustainability. Good for the soul, good for the planet!
Repair it.
You’ll never get the money (when time spent is included) out of it for parts; and while trying, you have the dismembered hulk decorating your property. Transmission is going? Swap one in; if you can’t find one, use your impressive mechanical savvy in trying a rebuild. Consider the time, an investment in education.
Once done, you have a beater extra-car…to move logs, or drive after a blizzard. Or you have something you can sell whole…take the money and the car is gone, no lingering body parts that have to be hauled off. And paid to be accepted at the landfill or scrapyard, often times.
Thanks for the advice all. Thinking that I’ll take the trans out and see if it’s something I can fix with either a rebuild or just swap in another trans. If parts are too pricey, or if the rebuild doesn’t work out then I’ll see if I can get a few hundred for the engine, 4WD parts and the rear end.
I’m with the guys who say find a used transmission. It will be cheaper than rebuilding it yourself. If you can go to UPull, you have the added advantage of warranty for exchange. Not much comfort when you’re the laborer, but some. At this point you really have to decide if the cost of a used transmission plus your labor to install is worth the value of using the truck for the next three-four years. That’s the real question that only the guy in the mirror knows the answer to. Good luck.
It depends on the wrecking yards in his area. In mine a used trans for that with a 90-101 day guarantee is going to set you back $450~$550. A rebuild kit and fluid will be under $200 if it doesn’t need any hard parts.
That is the issue. I’ve not found a working trans for under $500 in the junkyard for one of these; probably because they are one of the more failure prone parts on an early Explorer. I could probably get one cheaper from the u-pull it, doing all the work myself, but that’s a lot of work to go through just to put in another old trans that might also be shot, even if they do give you a warranty 🙂
Also, these are starting to get scarce around here. C4C, rust and time has taken most off the road. I see plenty of the 95 up Explorers, but not many of these first gens are still around.
Good old escalating commitment to a decision. If you give up now you’ve wasted all the time and money you’ve put in, if you keep going you may be throwing good after bad.
I vote for the used transmission too. If you’ve got the time to do extensive rust repair (and this engineer doesn’t) then you’ve got time to throw some more hours at this. However, this is why I prefer my projects without huge rust and with manual transmissions.
Good luck!!
I don’t really have much time. It took me a year to do what I did, mainly on the occasional free day on a weekend. 🙂
This is reaching but is the truck eligible for collector car insurance due to its age? Might be worth fixing if you could insure it for like $300 a year actually.
Funny, but I did think about that option. A 92 Explorer is old enough to get a classic car plates and insurance in PA. It would be exempt from state inspections and insurance would be cheap. I decided against this though, because you can’t use a classic car as a work vehicle (can’t pull a trailer, can’t leave it parked at Home Depot), and it has to be garage kept.
I’ve never heard that you can’t park it at Home Depot before. But yes in my state if you get collector plates it can’t be used to carry a load, pull a trailer, or as a commuter. I’ve seen many get away with doing those things though.
Looks like you’re handy with tools, pull the trans and see what the problem is. Then you can decide if you want to repair it or roll the dice on a junkyard trans. Either way though, once you get it fixed you need to sell it and move on. As noted above, it won’t be long until the next problem comes along.
I am an engineer too but wasn’t a mechanic before (the little I know is mostly self-taught). I like your hobby. I read an ad on a guy who seems to be specialized in VW Polo for a similar reason.
I would like more info on how the maths work or how you go around it. I also got an old fixable car to play with as a hobby. In my case is a Saab 900, the GM one.
Regarding your Exploder I suggest part and scrap it. Something else is going to stuff up.
I think with your mechanical skills you can keep it going forever for peanuts. Also, I think it’s at least as useful as a pickup considering that you have a trailer there.
If the wheels haven’t fallen off yet keep it going. I’m not a mechanic but as a retired AC guy I just got 15 years out of that system. You can fix stuff a lot cheaper generally than you can buy someone else’s problems and start over. I envy your skills.
I think these first gen ones are worthwhile. A little more crude than the ’95 second gen but tougher and more reliable.
Fix it. You didn’t drive it to the point where hard parts were damaged so you should only need an overhaul kit and a case of trans juice and a weekend’s worth of time. The trans in my ’05 P71 was my first rebuild project (under the watchful eye of my Ford factory trained brother) and it works like a charm. It’s not rocket science, just common sense.
I would keep it. I am not sure where in PA you reside but a sturdy 4×4 for a winter beater/driver in snow is worth it. My family is from the Reading area and my grand parents had a 1992 4 door s-10/s-15 GMC Jimmy that was bought new without A/C or any fancy things except 4 wheel drive due to the fact freak large accumulating snow storms would hit that area with little warning. When my grand mother handed in the keys I bought it and drove it daily and it cost about $50 or $60 a week to fill up the tank due to the fact the 4.3 v6 + 4×4 equals gas pig BUT the car was paid off and it only had 35,000 miles on it and the 3 times I had to use the 4 wheel drive justified the cost of gas each month.
A replacement trans for that truck should not be the deciding factor to dump that truck. Get yourself a used guaranteed trans, and replace the front pump seal while you have the trans out(easy to replace) and pop it in. Trucks(even guzzlers) seem to command mad money and much more then the cost of a trans. Better to haul things with a raggedy truck then a newish Nissan
I have the same one – XLT. Just restored it, December 2013. Didn’t need much – two dog legs, rockers and rolled edges on the driver’s side door. Shop also found it needed to new fenders. Same cabernet non-metallic paint. The URL is for a picture of it about eights years ago. It looks even BETTER now, with 111,000 miles and new paint almost all aournd.. Pretty much factory new looking. It’s my only car. And a 5-speed manual tranny!!!! And factory Bose subwoofer system.
Good luck with yours.
Just a quick note on the trans … it is overheating due to slippage AND possibly the torque converter not locking up. My experience with transmissions is 50+ years of combined professional family mechanics. MY Explorer blew the torque converter clutch and couldn’t be driven in OD w/out overheating (have a trans temp gauge on it)
A4LD … “LD” stands for LIGHT DUTY … don’t care how much cooling you put on it .. it will overheat under heavy loads. Yup, even w/a 10,000 pound trans cooler … never tow in OD with this vehicle and forget long hauls w/a heavy trailer.
These torque converters (factory) are the blame for overheating. Going down the highway … down a piece of I-80 in NJ … letting off the gas and torque converter unlocks … okay … NOPE! the transmission would start getting HOTTER by about 40 degrees. No lockup = massive heat.
I have a 1990 Ranger … same situation .. never towed w/it … I have a F-150 w/a E4OD trans for those tasks.
Currently my 92 explorer is slated for the scrap yard in spite everything works … kept it in good mechanical condition and probably has many thousands of good miles left in it but looks like the computer or sensor is taking a crap and the body is almost falling off. that and the poor mileage as of late … yah .. time to retire it.
I have a 94′ and it’s done great for me. If you do research and ask around ppl call them exploders, it’s because of the outo trans. Mine has the 5 speed manual. Those are better if you can drive a standard. I’m in the middle of rebuilding a 92 4.0L for better fuel mileage and power. I love it, it’s never let me down.