This was my first moved house, which arrived here in late 1996. Its asphalt shingle roof was already quite old at the time, but I do not believe in replacing a roof before it really, truly needs it. I constantly see houses getting roofs torn off for a new one that I would have kept at least another decade or two; money thrown away. That’s just me, but the reality is that asphalt roofing shingles almost never leak from just age; it’s invariably at some joint, roof penetration, chimney or transition.
I’d been procrastinating about this one for a number of years; the shingles had shed much of their gravel and were drying up, curling, breaking off in the wind, and otherwise showing signs of severe aging. My guess is that it was well over 40 years old, and these were just cheap, basic three-tab shingles.
I much prefer steel roofs (galvalume-coated steel panels), and have used them on numerous sheds, additions, a small cottage and part of our own house. But this was bigger (~1600 sq. ft of roofing) and more complex. And I didn’t have a helper, so I girded my loins and plunged in (more like jumped up), despite an unusually wet late spring.
The beauty of these steel panels is that they can be laid down directly over the existing roof; there was no way I was going to tackle a tear-off, even with help, given the repeated rains, never mind the cost of it. Here I am starting the south side; the poor condition of the formerly-white shingles is obvious. You can see where I wove in some new shingles where the chimney had been, as well as the new ones in front, over the porch I added at the time (1997).
I thought I might be able to walk on the 5/12 pitch roof to pull the panels up, but because the gravel was either gone or very loose, I couldn’t, reliably. So I had to break down and order a $37 ladder hook, which secures the ladder at the peak. I just propped one of the 13’9″ long panels up against the step ladder and the eaves, then climbed up on the roof (from the other side, which had a low-slope section), walked down the hooked ladder and pulled up the panel and dropped its leading edge ridge over the trailing edge ridge of the previous panel, which is how they overlap without leaking.
I worked whenever there were breaks in the weather, since it didn’t matter if it rained in between. Any water that got into the underside of the panels at the ridge would just work its way down underneath the ridges in the panels. And if it’s still there, it’ll escape as vapor out through the ridge cap (installed at the end) when it gets heated up by the sun.
If you look carefully, you can see the curvature of this old roof, whose rafters are…2x4s. Yes, that was all-too common back then on these smaller, modest dwellings. When they say “they don’t build them like they used to” I say: it’s (mostly) a good thing. But what’s a bit of curvature? My back is starting to get a bit too. The steel is very light, and since the shingles have lost most of the heavy gravel, the overall weight is very modest.
Here’s how it looked with all the panels installed, which are screwed directly to the wood deck with special screws that have neoprene washers. This is what has been used for many decades on a gazillion industrial and commercial buildings, pole barn shops/garages/barns, and on residential houses. Yes, a standing seam metal without exposed fasteners looks a bit more refined, but I just haven’t gotten around to working with it yet. This Delta Rib material is cheap and expedient.
Speaking of, my procrastination had a substantial price. When I first measured this roof and got a price for the materials about three years ago or so, it was about half of the current inflated price, which totaled to about $2900. Still less than two dollars a square foot. Installed by a contractor? You might well just add a zero to the right side of that number, in the current environment. “Were booked out to 2025…”
The last step was the one I was least looking forward to: cutting the existing roof and wood decking and skip sheathing at the peak for the venting roof cap, which allows the hot air to escape and creates a conductive draft, sucking in cool air from the soffit vents. I had to straddle the roof, sitting on a piece of rubber fatigue mat, and cut away with a circular saw. A chisel came in handy on a few occasions.
The reflective quality of this material will keep the attic much cooler too, especially compared to all the black and dark shingles that are so in vogue now. It’s the worst possible color choice, given that they will heat the house as well as themselves to where their lifespan will be materially shorter.
The cap is designed to prevent water intrusion except under the worst storms with very strong wind, so I bent up the ends of the panels to prevent water being blown uphill from getting into the open attic. If a few drops make it in, it’s not the end of the world either. What damages wood is continual water contact, not a random splash once in a while.
Here’s the ridge cap in place. It has a 3/4″ deep opening between the ribs. The plumbing vents require special seals, which have a flexible base that conforms to the ribs in the roof, and is screwed down all the way around.
It took me some two weeks to do this, but that was very part time, given the recurring rains and the fact that I only worked about 4-5 hours per day when it was dry. I do not let myself get tired working on a roof; one little misstep can be…problematic, at best. Putting down the panels goes very quickly; two people, or one ambitious one could do that in one day. Cutting and trimming the gable end trim and peak cap and other details took a bit of time. Doing it solo also made it take longer, as I had to get down and then back up on the roof for each panel. I’ve seen Youtube videos where a crew slaps out a pretty good sized house in a day.
I’m very happy with the result; it should last 60-80 years or more. Lots of old barns hereabouts have galvanized roofing that’s undoubtedly over a hundred years old. It’ll certainly outlast me by a long shot. And no more moss growing on the shingles.
That is fantastic!
I’m seeing these roofs appear in central Illinois, and have wondered about them. The fact that you showed us how you did it is greatly appreciated. Our home is not yet in need of this work, but I suspect it could very well end up being a steel room similar to what you did. Thanks for this information!
I am beginning to view jobs like this one as “the last time I need to worry about this, it will be someone else’s problem after I am gone”. One of the perks, of sorts, of getting older.
I would like to do this to all my rentals, as my kids want to inherit them, unsurprisingly. They are not handy, unfortunately. But I don’t know if I’m up to it. We shall see…
Good luck and be careful, roofs are high up.
Nice job! The steel roof suits the style of that nice bungalow well. On my mid-century ranch, not so much.
Looks good. I’m contemplating a metal roof for a couple of my properties. One of them unfortunately has 12/12 pitch on the two story area so I’m thinking I’ll probably just pay someone to do that one. I did put the existing roof on it but I was ~30 years younger. The other is a single story of 4/12 so I’ll probably do that one myself, again.
Personally I’m at the point where I’m trying to get all the major stuff like roofs done on my rental properties now so I don’t have to deal with them in the future when I’ll be even less likely to want to do things like get up on a roof.
The one next door is shedding its gravel like mad; a bad batch of shingles, as it’s only maybe 30 years old (it looked fairly new when it arrived in 1997). But it’s steeper and taller. I’d have to put up staging and take other measure. Certainly not a solo job. I may pay someone to do it if I can find the right person. But most of my other ones are less steep and quite low to the ground.
That’s exactly my thinking: get it done now. Hopefully I’m not too late. I’m supposed to be retired.
Yeah I thought about scaffolding but it isn’t cheap to rent, plus the time to set up and take down, so I decided I might as well put that money to paying someone to do the job.
I painted the outside of my house last year—it’s a 2 story with sections that go up past three with the pitch of the land and peak of the roof. 16 years ago I painted it for the first time, spraying the siding on a ladder. That took a lot of time. I’m older and wiser now, and rented a mobile boom lift. What took me two months of weekends last time took five days this time.
That being said, I stay away from roofing if I can help it, and mine is too high and steep to do myself.
In the second to last photo, it looks like a tenant is moving in. Hope that wasp looking for an entrance will be paying its way! I’d think that if a galvanized steel roof works in the northwest, it should work just about anywhere.
It’s not a wasp; it was some debris from cutting the old ridge roofing and wood. I used a big broom to remove it as best as possible, but I missed some of it.
One question – does a heavy rain make more noise when it hits steel rather than shingles?
No. Maybe very slightly so in a very heavy rain, but not objectionably so. It does if you’re in a barn or outbuilding without any insulation or drywall.
The house I grew up in was a typical New Zealand 1960’s weatherboard with corrugated iron roof house. Only a quarter inch of insul-fluff in the ceiling. You could certainly hear the rain, and it was beautiful. Now I live in a 2008 build brick and (thick) concrete tile home, with insulation a good few inches thick, and have to look outside to see if it’s raining in all but the heaviest of squalls! It certainly doesn’t lull me to sleep like the rain did as a child.
Quite the overhaul and a huge improvement in looks to that house. The lay over top method certainly makes this strategy much more appealing.
Impressive job! A 100-year roof is a seductive idea, especially in climates where shingle roofs can become a year-round food growing medium for crows, squirrels, raccoons, and assorted urban wildlife.
I’ve thought of metal a few times, but the possibility of more rain noise made me reluctant, especially on an old house with less roof insulation. Maybe installing it over existing shingles would reduce the impact? Then again, with gradually increasing hearing loss over the past decade it probably wouldn’t matter much now anyway. 🙂
The noise thing is a common myth that makes people averse to metal roofs. It’s essentially a non-issue, and it originates from the sound heard in barns and outbuildings. With decent attic insulation and drywall/plaster, it cannot be heard, normally. Possibly slightly so in a real strong downpour, but how often does that happen, and it’s certainly not an unpleasant sound.
Only folks who don’t have a metal roof are concerned with this (non) issue.
Our home has a metal shingle roof and I can confirm that raindrop impact noise isn’t an issue. Can’t hear it. What I *can* hear is the rain going tinkle-bing-a-ding! on the recently installed vent cap for the kitchen range. That tiny thing is louder than the entire rest of the roof combined.
Nice work, Paul, looks good. How long to those neoprene washer screws last?
Good question. According to a reliable source, the washers used to be mediocre, and had a fairly short life (10-15 years, or less). The new ones have a better quality neoprene/EPDM material, and they have a metal cap over the washer that protects it from the sun. They might well last 20-30 years, depending on the environment. We don’t get nearly as much sun as some climates do; that’s what deteriorates the washers.
But it’s possible that the screws might want to be replaced at some point, which wouldn’t be all that onerous.
My then partner and I built a new house in 1994 with this same type of roof, and I haven’t heard anything from the home owners.
There’s no question that a (properly installed) standing seam roof is superior for this reason. But they can be quite a bit more expensive.
I have to smile. Many years ago my first place of my own was a used single-wide mobile home in a semi-nice park with the old-fashioned metal roof. OK for me but not after marriage. When we parlayed that into the down payment on a house we realized that we missed the sound of rain on the roof. So much that we put in a small fountain outside our bedroom window – more for the noise than anything else. Go figure.
The noise is lovely in the setting of a house. As mentioned, it’s not like a barn.
To me, it’s a reason FOR getting a metal roof. If you glance on, say, Youtube, there’s recordings of the sound for relaxation purposes.
Each to their own and all that, of course.
As a property insurance agent in Florida, I could write a book on the topic of roof age and condition, unfortunately. It’s a major hot button issue here, as insurers are in some cases refusing to write policies for houses with asphalt roofing over 15, 10, or in some cases even 7 years old. There are about a zillion factors involved, not the least of which is the rather rapid degradation of asphalt shingles in the searing heat, heavy rains and wind we get here. Which has brought me on several occasions to question why people keep replacing them with the same material. Cost is of course a big reason, and since roofs are so often replaced after storm claims are paid by insurers, it’s easier to just put back what was there because that’s what insurance will pay for, and very few people seems to want to pony up for an upgrade. It’s the definition of insanity to me, but whatayagonnado?
As someone who looks at roof inspections all day every day, those “before” photos of the shingles nearly gave me palpitations. But then again, for 40 years old I suppose they’re in better shape than some I’ve seen here at 20 years of age.
The Youtube videos I watched before doing this were all in Florida. That’s what gave me the confidence to do this, in this way, on top of the old roof. So apparently at least a few folks are waking up.
Yeah; asphalt shingles are pretty dumb. Folks are hung up on the looks of them. I have a contractor friend who is building a new second house for himself on Orcas Island in the Puget Sound. It’s in the woods. He’s interested in rain water harvesting. Steel is the obvious choice. Nope; shingles, “for aesthetic reasons”.
Given the typical replacement interval of asphalt, it is a poor roofing material. In my market, you are a chump if you pay for your own roof. Insurance rates have skyrocketed here with the assumption that you are insuring a pre-paid roof. For the last 30 years, most companies will pay for a roof with any evidence of hail damage. Even a new roof with just a few pock marks invisible from the ground will get replaced. It’s a shame, waste of money and loads up landfills.
Being a long term and multi property owner, I’ve learned to play the game. Wait until the roof is about 20 years old, wait for a hail storm that seems to bring out a few adjusters to neighboring properties, turn in the claim. For added benefit, I delay actual replacement for the two years they give me to complete it, so I walk away with the newest roof possible. That last step could get a bit dicey if roofers were suddenly very busy after a big storm.
Metal roofs seem to make a lot of sense, and I think they look attractive. It might also be more logical under solar panels than asphalt.
A couple of questions regarding metal – is it relatively hail proof (dents that could make it look like a hailed on car), and do you do anything to insulate the house from potential noise from rain falling on metal?
No wonder my insurance rates are so high! I have never once filed an homeowner’s insurance claim in my life, for all of my properties. You’d think I’d get a discount for that. Nah… But I don’t blame you for playing the game.
We normally do not get real hail here in the PNW; very rare, and then usually not large. I’ve never heard of any hail damage here as long as I’ve lived here.
You’d have to look up the specs for hail damage resistance for steel roofs; I assume it is resistant up to a point. I don’t know what that point is. One can also specify a thicker gauge of steel.
As noted in another comment, the noise issue is essentially a non-issue. It’s a myth, except for possibly in an epic downpour, and then not objectionable.
Nice job!
Couple of questions: as others have mentioned, how about the noise of rain? Also, the pictures of the roof ridge shows some deterioration. What did you determine about it?
Just being curious, what does one sheet of that steel weigh?
See my earlier comments about noise.
What deterioration? You mean the saw cuts? Those were undoubtedly made when they trimmed the plywood that was put down over the original wood skip sheathing when this roof was put on. These houses originally had wood shingles on skip sheathing.
Those cuts aren’t deep. Nothing to be concerned about. I have a pretty relaxed attitude to those old little bungalows: they were thrown together from a pile of 2x4s, and although the rafters are underspanned and sagging a bit, they’ll hold up until this house either gets torn down or massively rebuilt. This neighborhood has gotten very expensive. As in a little old bungalow a block away that was even more modest than this one and had been added to a bit (2400 sq. ft) is for sale for….$750,000.
It’s good to go, for well past my lifetime, or its lifetime, which will be determined by outside factors.
Weight? I had no problem moving these 13’9″ panels myself. The ones on my house were longer (16′ ?) and had no problem either. They’re quite light.
I decided 35 or so years ago I didn’t want to deal with roof problems in my senior years, so I elected to put metal roofs on every building on our old farmstead (2 dwellings, and 5 barns and outbuildings.) We used galvanized panels similar to yours, laid directly over the existing asphalt shingles. We omitted the strapping often used, but checking with the manufacturer assured us that the strapping was not necessary. Over several years, my wife and I undertook this task, and managed to complete it without incident, despite the somewhat steeper pitch of one of the roofs (5+ in 12) and the length of the longest panels we handled (over 16 feet– we ordered the panels cut to length so they run from ridge to eaves unbroken.) I discovered when removing some of the screws while adding a small porch that driving the screws through the asphalt shingles evidently heated the screws enough to melt some of the asphalt such that they looked as if they had been pitched, so in consequence we haven’t had a single discernable roof leak in all these years. I was never aware of any particular increase in the noise factor, and with the reinforcement of the solid deck under the panels we have never had any evidence of denting from either hail or the occasional small tree limb falling. Unless we have some unprecedented weather event from which damage is inescapable in general, I don’t anticipate any roof repairs in the remainder of my lifetime. We probably went overboard with the number of fasteners we used and the thoroughness of the work we did on flashing the chimneys, etc., but the peace of mind during a hard rain or miserable winter weather (never any ice dams, and the roofs often clear quite quickly after a heavy snowfall when gravity causes the snow to slide off) made it all worthwhile. I think the reflection of the summer heat, as opposed to the heat absorbed by dark colored shingles, makes the buildings cooler in summer, too. For us, there is no “down-side” to metal roofs. With the decline in the quality of shingles (according to my roofer friends) I think the choice for long term owners in favor of metal is obvious. (And, no, I am not a paid spokesman for the Metal Roofing Institute, if there is one!)
Interesting.
Yes, I have no worries about leaks through the fasteners, for the reason you gave. And yes, I forgot about the reflective benefit; they are cooler without a doubt. Especially all those black shingles that are all the rage. It’s the worst possible color for both heat as well as speeding up their own destruction.
Back in the day, at least white or light shingle colors were more common, for obvious reasons.
The asphalt shingles on my house were failing (leaks!) in 2015, standard 3-tab stuff that was installed when the house was built in 1979. The upgrade from asphalt architectural shingle to metal was about 25% of the roofing job for exposed fasteners, and about 3% more for standing seam. The main difference between the two types is the installation for overlapping the screws with the next piece of metal. Looks great, and solar panels clipped right on. The plan now is to wait until moving to the old-folks home in about 40 years and let the new owners deal with it… The only change in perceived noise is right at the skylight, where the sound carries through.
Interesting. I’ve heard folks say that a pro standing roof job can cost up to double that of an exposed fastener roof. At 3%, it’s a no-brainer.
I understand metal roofs are more energy efficient, at least in places where air conditioning is required in the summer (which may not be the case in Eugene).
They are, as long as they are not painted a dark color.
I think the idea that asphalt shingles are “aesthetically pleasing” was thought up by somebody in the Marketing Department of a shingle manufacturer. To me, they always look like a worn-out gravel driveway. I’m sure you made a good choice.
Very impressive. I had a similar new roof installed here in New Mexico, but a crew did all the work. Involved a complete tear off and several area’s of new sheathing. The light color does keep the house cooler as compared to the greenish asphalt shingles. I might mention as I didn’t see it anywhere in the above comments, for many area’s, local zoning and building codes won’t allow a metal roof on a residential home. Such as Denver Colorado. Yet another reason that I hate zoning and building codes.
local zoning and building codes won’t allow a metal roof on a residential home. Such as Denver Colorado.
I couldn’t find anything to support that assertion about Denver. As a matter of fact, metal roofs are particularly popular in Colorado, as they shed snow so much better.
I find it hard to believe that any building codes in the US disallows metal roofs on residential structures. There may well be some Home Owner Associations that have CC&Rs about what roofing types are allowed, but that’s quite different than a building code.
Our area witched witch is the HOA. They’re pissed that I mount my flag on a tree instead of the garage or front of house as allowed.
We had a steel roof on a house we owned for about ten years in the Sierras, at almost 7000’ elevation, where there was a LOT of snow, at least back in the nineties. The first winter we had it was a record breaker, with snow starting in September, and sticking around on the shady side of the house until 4th of July. Anyway, this roof was uncoated, Cor-Ten steel which was intended to quickly acquire a surface rust coating which would discourage further corrosion and require less maintenance than a painted surface.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weathering_steel
Anyway, the surface rust didn’t let snow slide off easily, and we got used to the snow slowly creeping down over the eaves, often as slabs 2 to 3 feet thick, until they finally broke and tumbled 30 feet to the ground. One day mid-winter, we heard a big chunk of snow sliding off, followed by the sound of crumpling sheet metal. Oh, this house was two full stories, plus highly vaulted ceilings, and built on a grade which enabled an almost walk-in crawl space on one side. So the roof was very high off the ground. The nice neoprene-washered screws had pulled right out of the plywood sheathing on an entire 4’x16’ sheet. I did try to get up on the roof with a local contractor and though I’m usually OK with heights, did not even feel comfortable at the top of the ladder, let alone climbing onto the roof. He just hopped around on the snow covered roof at least 20’ off the ground. We hired him and he replaced it with a brown painted section of roofing and replaced a lot of the screws with longer ones … I think the originals were only 3/4” long and didn’t really penetrate well.
Yes, steel roofs in snow country are specifically popular there because the snow slides off easily, so Core-Ten would not be a good choice for that reason.
Good show, Paul. We reroofed the farm house roof back in 2007, with architectural shingles. It had three layers of three-tabs on it (including the original), and we found only a couple small areas of rot in the tongue-and-groove decking that needed repair. Pitch was 9/12, and had no scaffolding, but got it done. Took all summer, as the tear-off went slow, and despite having a dry Spring, it rained a lot that year – we spent more time tarping than roofing.
After retiring and moving South, I built a 30×48 post-frame shop on our 1 acre lot, and my brother-in-law came to help set the trusses and install the roof steel (I had never done steel before). Went fairly well, after figuring out how to ‘bunch’ each panel so they stayed parallel with the edge as you worked across. My panels were a bit over 18′ long (6/12 pitch roof), but were quite manageable for two people (no scaffolding). Beth and I actually finished the last nine panels ourselves as her brother had to leave. I think it took us three days to do the whole roof.
When it comes time to reroof the house, I’ll be doing exactly what you did. Glad to hear the noise is not an issue, as that concern has come up every time I mention doing a tin roof.
Here’s the finished product, at least finished on the outside. Still working on the ceiling and insulation on the inside.
Nice! Lots of room to play in there. 🙂
Very nice installation. The matte aluminum finish is quite attractive. It will retain its beauty for many years.
I always enjoy the sound of rain on an uninsulated metal roof.
+1
Thanks for the lesson, Paul—your super-handyman skills continue to wow me. (“Property Management” of rentals for someone less handy would be a different matter, for sure.)
I owned a two-story 1920s “foursquare” for 30 years; early on, I was OK with going up there to check over valleys, vents, and so on; later on I lost my confidence. But I did re-roof the (1960s) garage, which wasn’t scary at all, and saved some cash. The white asphalt shingles did look good for a long, long time.
Today’s built-up “laminated” (shake-like) shingles are everywhere now; I can’t think of the last time I saw a replacement with a plain old 3-tab. It does bug me to see a location-shot movie set in the 1950s or so when the overall “look” is pretty good, but not the new-style shingles.
Bravo once more for yet another string of accomplishments—always admirable.
p.s. Hearing about the 2x4s, however, was a bit scary…….
Looks good. However, I would like to point out that a lot of your information about roofs is very location-specific. Perhaps you can get 40 years out of a basic shingle roof in the Pacific Northwest. You can not on the Gulf Coast. Expect more like 15.
Coincidentally, this week I have having a galvalum standing steam metal roof installed on my house in New Orleans. It’s a basic 1200 sq ft shotgun double. The price with high-end professional installation is $22,000. A shingle roof would have been less than $9000. More than twice as much but it will last more than three times a long, and should survive hurricanes much better.
The shingle roof on my house was put up after Katrina in 2005. For the last couple of years I’ve been worried because the grit is all loose and the shingles were sunbaked. Last year, Hurricane Ida blew some shingles off sprung a bunch of leaks. That’s how roofs go down there: their life is measured by major hurricane.
15 years! Why do folks keep putting them on? Never mind; I know why…something to do with the definition of insanity.
The odd (and rather sad) thing is that tin roofs were quite common in the Gulf Coast (and other semi-tropical areas) traditionally, for obvious reasons.
Paul, I see these roofs appearing around my neck of the woods but it looks like they all go on over furring strips, for some reason.
I am curious if you saw anything about that with your installation.
There’s some risk that if you drive in a screw just below a shingle’s lower end, that you’re going to put a “ding” or dent in the roof, because it’s not on a continuous flat surface. This is more likely with the “architectural” shingles so common now, as some of them have several layers, so there’s going to be a greater deviation in height from the shingle directly below it.
Since this is my rental, and I’m not that picky, I was ok with the possibility of that, and since these were ancient three-tab shingles, the profile difference was less. I tried to make sure that my screws were near the bottom edge of a line of shingles to minimize that issue. I did have it occur a few times at the beginning, but backing off the screw a bit popped it right back. But my roof there is not perfectly “ding” free, but nobody is going to notice unless they look mighty hard.
I can see why contractors do it with furring strips, because clients can be picky.