It’s summertime in the Northern Hemisphere, and nothing says “summer” like a beautiful drive along the coast. In the summer of 2012, I had the pleasure of driving the Great Ocean Road in Victoria, one of the world’s most scenic roads.
The Great Ocean Road is the world’s largest war memorial. Built by returned soldiers between 1919 and 1932, it was dedicated to those soldiers whose lives were lost during World War I. Australia’s population at the time was only a few million. Around 330,000 Australians went overseas to fight, and 60,000 of them never came back. Those that did return needed to work, and although many went back to their former occupations or took up farming, there were plenty still that required employment.
Historical photos courtesy of Lorne Historical Society
The south-west coast of Victoria was accessible only by sea or rough tracks, so a road connecting these coastal towns would prove very useful. County Roads Board chairman William Calder proposed this grand plan for employing soldiers and linking isolated towns. Mayor of Geelong, Howard Hitchcock, agreed this could be a fitting memorial to Victoria’s fallen servicemen and also a lucrative tourist destination. Geelong, situated between Melbourne and the eastern terminus of this planned road, would benefit greatly from the new road.
The Great Ocean Road Trust was formed in 1918 as a private company, sourcing funds from loans and donations totalling £81,000. Hitchcock himself contributed £3000 of personal money. The money would be repaid by charging drivers a toll and, once the funds were repaid, the Trust would donate the road to the state. The project provided work to 3,000 returned servicemen and it was often gruelling, with much of it done by pick and shovel. Several lives were lost during construction.
In possibly the most Australian story ever, a steamboat ran aground in 1924 and had to jettison 500 barrels of beer and 120 cases of spirits. A two-week-long drinking break was had.
The road was opened in stages, but the entire course was completed in November 1932. Hitchcock, one of the road’s fiercest supporters, had sadly died just a few months prior and his car was driven behind the Governor’s in tribute. A memorial was also constructed in his honor. The road was officially handed over to the State Government in 1936.
Measuring 151 miles long, the road is full of twists and turns. It runs alongside steep cliff faces, sandy beaches and rolling hills, through quaint towns and past extremely expensive real estate.
Our rental Hyundai i30 (Elantra GT in North America) was a comfortable and quiet if unexciting companion. The latest Hyundais really impress with their feeling of solidity and refinement, although they lack the dynamism of, say, a Mazda. Australia also receives the mechanically related Elantra (we are one of the few markets to receive both European and American/Korean Hyundais) but the i30 is the bigger seller and is always in the top 10 best-sellers list. Only the Mazda3 and Toyota Corolla consistently outsell it.
It wasn’t a loss to have such a sensible and unexciting car. Those expecting to rocket through the twisties on the Great Ocean Road would be disappointed, particularly during the summer months. Much like California’s Pacific Coast Highway, there is a lot of tourist traffic. This is apparent by the sheer number of signs dotted along the road reading, “In Australia, Drive On The Left.”
This Memorial Arch is actually the fourth such arch constructed in this very spot. The first was part of the toll-gate and was demolished when the tolls were removed in 1936. The second was constructed in 1939 and weighed 50 tonnes, but the County Road Board deemed it a traffic hazard and called for its demolition. Public outcry spared it from destruction, but failed to spare it from a truck…
The third arch was destroyed in the devastating Ash Wednesday bushfires of 1983, and finally a fourth arch was constructed which stands to this day and serves as a popular photo stop. It was a spectacularly sunny day when Brandon and I had our photo taken in front of it, so my pasty self is almost completely washed out.
At points, the road snakes back away from the coast. It was at one of these less scenic sections of the road where we found ourselves stuck behind an elderly couple in a lime green Hyundai i20. With double white lines painted in the middle, we were not permitted to overtake them and soon it looked like a funeral procession as six more vehicles queued behind the little green hatchback. Once the road straightened, the poor old couple must have been surprised to see seven cars simultaneously overtaking them!
The speed limit is quite low in parts, and given the road’s popularity and Australian police’s obsession with speed cameras, it’s best to stick to the speed limit. Of course, with such beautiful scenery along the drive, you needn’t be in a rush!
Sometimes it’s as though you’re right on the beach.
Other times, you’re driving inland. The scenery is still very pretty even when you’re not on the water.
The water, though, is gorgeous.
The various hills devoid of trees remind me of the Pacific Coast Highway.
Even the man-made scenery can be interesting.
This is the lighthouse in the quaint town of Aireys Inlet.
Some of this town’s residents are obviously quite wealthy.
Here’s another view of the lighthouse. Nowadays, there are far fewer ships unloading on these shores so this lighthouse probably doesn’t get much use.
It’s understandable why you would pay so much for a house here, miles from the nearest big city, when you take a look at the view.
This beautiful building is the Grand Pacific Hotel in Lorne.
There are sights to be seen off the road, as well. We pulled over at one of the small towns and found this fascinating pedestrian suspension bridge built over a tidal inlet.
The beaches along the road are beautiful and pristine.
The Twelve Apostles, limestone and sandstone rock formations just off the coast, are one of the most breathtaking sights along the road. We pulled over at this point to take a look, but the heat and humidity had attracted an obscene number of flies. We saw an older couple who came prepared: they wore beekeeper masks!
The annoyance of swatting away flies quickly gives way when you cast your eyes upon these gorgeous rock formations.
You can take the road all the way to its western terminus in Allansford, just near Warrnambool, but we peeled off at Port Campbell and took the inland route back to Melbourne. Once you get off the road, there are no more “Drive On The Left” reminders. So, try to remember!
Surprisingly, Curbside Classics were sparse along the drive. It’s the perfect road for taking your classic convertible for a weekend cruise, after all. Much like the PCH, the majority of traffic consisted of new rental cars. However, I did spot this 1980s Toyota Crown. Like the conceptually similar Datsun/Nissan 280C/300C (Cedric), these weren’t very popular here.
If you’re ever in Victoria, you simply must take a day trip along the Great Ocean Road. It’s not far from Melbourne (around an hour’s drive) and you can easily drive it in a day.
If you do drive the Great Ocean Road, drive responsibly and enjoy the scenery. As us Aussies would say, “Don’t get done by a speed camera!”
The images of the coast are beautiful. The rock outcroppings remind me a lot of the Big Sur area of the California coast. I had the great opportunity to drive from Montery to San Diego along the Pacific Coast Highway earlier this (northern hemisphere) summer and it was a blast. Thanks for sharing.
Wow , that’s all very beautiful , thank you for sharing it .
That reminds me ~ I’ve not driven PCH up to San Fransico in over a decade , maybe it’s time again .
-Nate
Awesome article! I’ve always wanted to visit Australia, if for no other reason, than to drive the Great Open Road, in Victoria.
Another incentive to move to Australia someday. Gorgeous scenery.
I’d love to visit but the sheer amount of venomous insects/reptiles/amphibians/weather scares the crap out of me.
Don’t forget marine hazards: sharks (hence the term “Shark Bait” for brave swimmers) & the deadly cnidarian Portuguese Man O’War, whose cute nickname is “Bluebottle.”
But Dinkum Aussies say “No worries” & keep on surfing.
…and the speed cameras….
Tax collectors, we call ’em.
Where’s your sense of adventure? Just because these guys share the house with us…..
You may consider setting fire to your house.
A lovely article. The Ring Of Kerry, here in Ireland is similar in many ways. Lots of twists and turns, spectacular views of sea and mountains, lots of slow-moving tour-buses and rental cars.
We don’t have the flies or the heat, though.
Awesome. I love me some old roads.
Jim ;
Come to California ~
We’re just loaded with old , poorly engineered Farm to market back roads few remember.
I love taking day or 1/2 week trips on them in my old beaters , I can let them out and drive 9/10ths will little or no other traffic there .
-Nate
Back in the late ’80s, my wife & I stumbled onto some 1½ lane-wide country roads in Central CA between I-5 & US 101, & those were fun in her ’86 Camry. At least for me.
I-5 is an example of how the Interstate Hwy Act made driving as boring as possible. No wonder the Conti Mk IV was successful.
Last year the wife and I drove the Cabot Trail around Nova Scotia. Love taking trips like that but Nova Scotia had pulled at me for years. Drove a big part of it in 1966 and it was a chance to share a memory. It had changed quite a bit so we just shifted our attention to the more remote areas. Beautiful.
Great story. You will remember this a long time.
Reminds me of Highway 101 around Bandon, Oregon. I’d love driving 101 if it weren’t for all the other cars!
“The annoyance of swatting away flies…”
That’s where the slang term “Aussie Salute” comes from.
Big Sur was my 1st thought, too. I tried to drive it several times when I lived in California in the 80s, but eventually got in too big a hurry to get to L.A. That, or slides would close sections of road making progress even slower.
Take away the ocean and parts of this road look very similar to northern Pennsylvania and/or New York state. Small towns and villages, narrow roads (just lately getting overdue widening), and lots of sheer drops.
BTW, the U.S. got all of the Elantra body styles, but in 2015 or 2016 the GT as pictured here was “cancelled”. We don’t get manual transmissions anymore, and we never got diesel engined Hyundais.
Looks like you had a great time and wonderful to hear you enjoyed your drive down here on the Great Ocean Road. Thank you for all the correct historical context as well. Driving on the left must be confronting for you, just as driving on the right is for us when we got to the Americas or Europe. I know when I drive over there everything is ok until I get to do a turn…well, the first few any way!
I don’t know if you had the chance to see it, but there is a Ford museum in Geelong. It was there that they used to assemble Model T’s in a converted woolshed!
Tourists causing deaths on the roads by failing to keep left or looking at the scenery instead of the road have become a major menace in NZ, interesting to note Australia has the same problems with them pity because there are some really good drives down under, Ive been along the great ocean road many years ago in a Holden panel van, there was little traffic it was mid winter, must do it again some time but there are many great driving roads here in NZ to do yet.
That can be a problem in any country. Those used to driving on the left side of the road, say in England, Japan, Australia, or New Zealand, might find it challenging, to say the least, learning which side of the road to drive on. That should be an easy fix, though, I would think. One would have to watch the drivers and which side of the road they use while they drive. And if you decide to have a go at it yourself, if you’re visiting North America, remember to watch how other drivers drive. Most drivers drive on the right side of the road, and overtake and pass another car on the left side of the road.
Great history lesson, William. Had no idea about all this. Done the GOR a few times including a camping trip to Johanna. Great waves. Watch out for motorcyclists using both lanes.
Not far from my place here, I’m half an hour north-west of Geelong.
You’ve covered it well, William. Deservedly popular for the stunning variation of scenery between ocean beaches and thickly wooded hills. Definitely not a road to hurry on, as that would be missing the point; it’s all about the scenery. Allow twice as long as you think you’ll need, and you’ll still feel rushed toward the end.
I was lucky enough to get a 2 week business trip to Melbourne in winter of 2003. I did the same trip to Port Campbell and was simply amazed at the beauty of the views. Driving on the left doesn’t seem so weird for me as long as I’m driving. Being a front seat passenger is quite strange though!
Awesome story William. I spent a week camping in the Otways back in October 2013. I took the car ferry across the bay, from Sorrento to Queenscliff, to get to the the Great Ocean Road. I was told the average rainfall in the region was something like 3-4 times more what Melbourne received. It’s so damp that a lot of what is left of the old growth forest has never burned. The steepest cliffs along the coast reminded me a lot of being on the windward side of Oahu at times.
I did a 3 week tour around Victoria, including the Great Ocean Road, in 2005 by bicycle. A great trip, great scenery, some great pubs, and very friendly people. Highly recommended – nice to see your photos!
The circuit from Geelong, along the GOR to Port Campbell, and back to Geelong via Ballarat took me 6 days however. 🙂
Did it as a child and again a few years ago with my ex. Planning to get there with my sister in October when we go down for Motorclassica!
We are both obsessed with the story of the Loch Ard and plan to make a visit to the gorge https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loch_Ard_Gorge
A truly magnificent drive. We have done it at least 3 times in the 4 years we have been here.
And we usually use the A1 to return. You have to cross cow-land to reach Colac, and those roads are mostly deserted and straight… if you know what I mean 😉
I wish I had a convertible Saab to go there during mid-december, when it’s not too hot. I’m sure the kids would love it.
Great write up. Now I want to travel to Australia, thanks for taking us along this wonderful road.
Being from the USA, I’ve wanted to visit Australia forever. The closest I’ve come was visiting England. In both countries, you drive on the left-hand side of the road.
Jim—
Australia and Canada both have groovy coastal roads to experience, your pics almost made me cry, as I miss the Trans-Island drive on BC’s Vancouver Island. I hope to take my ’72 Chrysler VH Valiant Charger coupe down the twisty roads. They’re an experience to behold. But I shan’t kick Washington state’s (Where I live and attend college) coastal roads either, I hope to explore an’ drive ’em too.
If you’re ever in the South Sound, look me up, I’ll give a grand driving experience with my ’69 Sport Fury ragtop along HWY 101…