Only three short weeks ago, my other half and I were in the Motor City for a mini-vacation over an extended weekend. Our main reason for going was to see the S.O.S. Band in concert at one of the downtown casinos. (The band has still got the “Sounds Of Success”, by the way, and lead singer Mary Davis has never sounded better.) The concert was outstanding, but the big surprise (and it must be described as such) was how Detroit ended up showing me one of the best vacations of my adult life. I’m going with top-three.
I grew up a full hour north of here in Flint, which is not a suburb of Detroit, but it’s own city and a decent number of miles away. Due to its relative proximity to Flint, downtown Detroit just never seemed like a worthwhile destination. The D also seemed more than a little scary and dangerous when I was growing up, which is / was an unfortunate (but happily changing) perception. Even with downtown’s steadily building comeback, the Motor City has seemed to also maintain a healthy, earthy swagger that seems to stay true to its largely blue-collar ethos. Upper Manhattan it ain’t. I had last been back in the area for a friend’s Great Gatsby birthday party in July of 2014, when I got to experience legendary jazz nightclub Cliff Bell’s for the first time. I hadn’t been back to Detroit since.
This trip from several weeks ago (the first weekend of December 2016), however, had everything. We stayed in a luxury hotel off Grand Circus Park located in the gorgeous, newly renovated David Whitney Building, which originally housed offices. The holiday decorations were up, which added to the festive atmosphere, as did the hard-wired lights surrounding the beautiful, glass ceiling in the atrium lobby. Our room itself was beautifully appointed, and we had a third-story view of Woodward Avenue and nearby Tiger Stadium.
It was fun to walk around the Financial District, where there are many architectural treasures. The most impressive of these, to me, was the Guardian Building, originally constructed between 1928 and 1929. Its nickname is the “Cathedral of Finance”, and it is truly a crown gem in Detroit’s architectural heritage, inside and out.
We went to the Motown museum for a guided tour, which included being inside famed Studio A where many catchy, familiar and culturally significant hits were recorded. Marvin stood here? Diana sat at that desk? Stevie played that piano? Our tour guide, Peggy, had us even attempting to sing along to some of the best-loved Motown hits of the 60’s. I gave it the old, college try, but suffice it to say that I never would have been behind the microphone in that garage-turned-recording studio back then. Touring this museum was a highlight of this trip.
We ate delicious, authentic Greek food in Greektown, in a festive area right near the casinos. Opa!
In Campus Martius Park, there was ice skating, a nice American bistro, a separate pop-up bar, and a beautifully lit Christmas tree staged over the cascading fountain.
We shopped for Detroit-sourced gifts and clothes from local vendors in storefronts on historic “Merchant’s Row” on Woodward Avenue. We ate at great restaurants and diners, both old and new. There was easy public transit, including buses and the elevated Detroit People Mover train that encircled the main downtown area and mostly got us to where we needed to go without always needing to rely on taxis or ride sharing when we weren’t walking.
There was great nightlife. We hit some spots ranging from from true dives that were still rich and cool in their authenticity, to spots that were hip and chic. Friendly service and smiles abounded. My favorite locale was a little speakeasy decorated in a very eclectic style that sat next to a downtown synagogue. There was live jazz music coming from an energetic trio, and we later found out the nice gentleman who was sitting next to and talking with us was the owner. We seemed to make new acquaintances wherever we went.
This brings me to my next reflection on this trip – my excellent Detroit experience was also about the people. All different kinds of folks from all walks of life would talk with us, complete strangers, with some of them seeming barely able to contain their enthusiasm and pride in their city’s reemergence. There were moments when some of it almost seemed as if acted from a script from the Detroit Bureau of Tourism, but my lasting impression was that much of these momentary interactions seemed too sincere and off-the-hip to be fake. Judging by the still-straightforward demeanor of many people we encountered, Detroit seems to keep it far too real for that kind of foolishness.
As we were leaving town in our rental car, we passed the historic Fox Theater and stopped at a red light. There, appearing ever-larger in my rear-view mirror as it approached, was our subject car. With an unobstructed view, I was able to snap the title-shot (from which the above image is cropped) through the open driver’s seat window. It was as if Detroit was bidding us bye-for-now with an open invitation to come back.
It doesn’t really need to be stated yet again that the original Ford Mustang was one of Detroit’s (by way of Dearborn) major success stories, and that its styling still holds up over fifty years later is a testament to its timelessness. Like the Mustang, Detroit has been through some changes, but seeing this pretty, blue fastback was a fitting epilogue to a weekend that rekindled my love affair with the city that was once synonymous with car production – and a city of significant historic relevance for lovers of American cars, the world over. Bless you, Detroit, comeback city of America. Thank you. And we can’t wait to come back.
Detroit, Michigan.
December 1-3, 2016.
- For reading on the ’65 Ford Mustang, here’s a piece from Paul Niedermeyer from 2014 Curbside Classic: 1965 Mustang – Freedom; Starting At $2368.
- Related listening from the S.O.S. Band: “The Finest” (1986).
This is awesome. I’ve been contemplating a trip to Detroit for a couple years now, actually ordering a tourism packet from the Chamber of Commerce last year. It’s great to get some rather personalized feedback from someone who’s visited as an “Urban Tourist”, which is basically the way I like to see American cites (just kinda “being” there, shopping, eating, drinking and interacting with them rather than “touring”.)
The more first-hand accounts from visitors and former or current residents I read, the more I’m inclined to book a long weekend myself. Thanks for the insights.
Thank you. Like MTN, I’ve been wanting to visit Detroit for a while, to take my youngster to the Henry Ford and for some other sightseeing. However, my last two trips there (solo in 1997 and with Mrs. Jason in 2000) were, let’s say, counter to your experience. It’s been a while since then, so it’s very encouraging to hear about the mighty upswing in the area.
I am happy to see Detroit in what looks like the beginnings of a rebirth. I took the family there about 15 years ago for a fall break long weekend so that we could experience the Henry Ford and other nearby things. We stayed in Dearborn and did not really get into Detroit-proper, other than driving through. It is good that things are looking up there.
When my parents first married, my father was a young sales engineer working the Detroit area out of our home in Ypsilanti. My mother later said that he was often asked then if he was related to Jerome Cavanaugh, who would become mayor of Detroit in 1962 (shortly after we moved back to Fort Wayne.) He was not, but whatever opens doors for a sales guy, right? 🙂
As a lifelong auto enthusiast and US resident, it really does warm my heart to hear about the resurgence of Detroit. Great story, thanks for sharing!
As always, a great write-up and fantastic pics! Ive never been to Detroit. Along with New England, the Great Lakes area is one region of the country Ive never had the opportunity to visit. Everything I know about Detroit has typically focused on the rot and decline that is all too well known. It would appear that the D isn’t dead yet…just the opposite it would seem.
That Mustang couldn’t be a more fitting piece to showcase. The wheels being a bit too big aside (17’s are the absolute max diameter for classic tin), the refresh job kept the timeless appeal of that car intact.
Thanks, MR74 – much appreciated. I liked that you mentioned the refresh job on the Mustang… for me, this seemed to parallel the “resto-modding” of some of Detroit’s buildings, for use in the 21st century. I think this approach of slight modification / modernization will enable more of downtown Detroit’s currently vacant (and ripe for renovation) buildings to be repurposed, moving forward.
At Aloft Detroit (the hotel in the renovated David Whitney Building), our guest suite was very obviously a converted office space, complete with (very high) ceilings and a small living room that looked like it may have once housed a waiting room or lobby of, say, a dentist’s office. But they made it work! It was at once retro (like the blue Mustang) and modernized to fit its purpose.
I actually like the wheels on this ‘Stang. 🙂
Thanks for the great write up. We used to visit Detroit a lot when I was a kid as my Aunt lived there. My wife is from the burbs, too, but her parents are gone now. The last time I was there was in 2007 for my Aunt’s funereal. It is good to see things starting to turn around.
Thanks, too for the Mustang picture. Today is my birthday and it was nice to see my favorite care on CC this morning.
Happy birthday, Rick! Things seem to be turning around in Detroit very nicely, though there is still a lot to be done. It is great to see the beginnings of such a great and hoped-for turnaround.
I agree with your comment on the max size of rims being 17″. On the 65 Mustang, they are 17″s. I ordered them and had the car repainted after I purchased it at Maco 3 Years ago.
I’ve been to Detroit several times during auto show season over the years, but stayed mainly near Cobo Hall and the nearby Marriott. Walking around the neighborhoods in the vicinity there is a fair amount to see and do, especially as regards eating, we had some great meals! It’s great to hear that things are progressing, Detroit should not have been allowed to fall as far as it did, as car guys (and gals!), it is certainly one of our Mecca’s.
I’m delighted your visit was so good! We in Detroit are genuinely excited to tell anyone that’ll listen about the cool stuff happening here, and believe me, there’s cool stuff happening here. There is a multitude of people like me, fixing up a house or two like this 1905-vintage beauty, let alone the new restaurants, the new nightlife, and the new excitement. This is a great town.
Seriously, I encourage everyone to come up and visit! Actually, come up the first weekend of August for the Woodward Dream Cruise. Come for the old cars, stay for the architecture. Oh, and have a coney and some Faygo to wash it down!
…Or some Vernor’s Ginger Ale, served with ice cream for a “Boston Cooler”!
Detroit was nothing short of a revelation. There’s no reason for me to automatically say this, as I didn’t grow up there. Flint had a similar kind of energy before the water situation and the switch from Detroit water a few years ago. I’m still fuming and deeply saddened by what’s going on my hometown.
Back to Detroit, though, there are still so many things on my list of things to check out: Cass Corridor, Belle Isle, Joe Muer’s (at the Ren Cen / GM World Headquarters) for some of what is reportedly the best seafood around, the Detroit Art Institute… I feel like my appetite has just been whetted.
Your house above is a beauty. I’m glad to hear (again), firsthand from you, that the enthusiasm of many Detroiters is genuine. It certainly is contagious.
Nice looking old house. Did it still have its gas lines for the old gas lights that house would have had back when it was built. I actually like gas lights and the fixtures were some of the most elaborate light fixtures made.
Gas light lines are still intact, as was most of the original knob-and-tube wiring. The house had all of the wiring that was visible, the kitchens, the bathrooms, the locks and knobs from the doors, the boilers, the water heaters, the radiators, and literally any other metal or thing of value exposed stripped. So, I’m starting over with wiring, HVAC, plumbing, etc.. Sadly, none of the original bathroom fixtures remain, and oddly, there was no tile installed in 1905-even the bathrooms had oak hardwood floors rather than tile. That said, much of the oak 7.5 inch baseboard ornate moulding and casings remain. The original oak flooring remains. And, I can add really slick modern finishes where the originals have gone missing.
Gotta be honest-I’ve been working on Mr. X to move into the upper flat and let me sell the house in the suburbs. Haven’t made the sale yet, which saddens me since that house has doubled in value and I could use the proceeds to do a couple of projects in Detroit.
Alas…
Great-looking old house! Shame so much went missing, but as you noted, at least you have the option of guilt-free modernization of kitchens/baths. The original floors being intact is a nice bonus.
Must get to Detroit soon! Never been there. Maybe this spring, a CC Meet-Up!? May?
If one is scheduled there, I’d do everything I can to be there.
I think Detroit would be a great meet-up for CC! I think our biggest challenge would be packing in all the things that everyone would want to see and do–Detroit has so much to offer for foodies, music lovers, architecture buffs and of course, car nuts!
I am so happy Detroit is coming back. It is a wonderful testament to people who just won’t give up, no matter how dismal things may seem. For anyone interested, a book I highly recommend is Mark Binelli’s “Detroit City Is The Place To Be.” It presents the city with no sugar coating, from the good to the terrible, and it can make you both very sad and very inspired.
I’m thinking of coming out for a whole week. There’s just so much to see.
Yes please. I went to University in Windsor, I haven’t been to Mexican town or Greek town in quite a while. I saw a PDQ Bach concert at the Fox back then, funny stuff.
The engine is coming out of the VW next week to get sent for rebuild, so I can get there at speeds higher than 45mph.
An excellent idea! I suggest Motor Muster weekend, which is always the same weekend as Father’s Day.
That would get me in trouble with my Dad, my kids and Mrs DougD..
Paul, you don’t have to ask me twice. If this happens and once we have a better idea of firm dates, I’d be able to commit with more certainty.
What a cool idea.
Fantastic idea! I MAY be in the US around May/June so if possible, I would love to come along!
As long as we don’t schedule around the 5th (my wedding anniversary), I’m in!
I’m up for it!
May would likely work extremely well for me too.
I’ve been to Detroit but once. I was on an epic road trip, circa 1990: Terre Haute to Detroit to Toronto to Edison, NJ, and then home, to visit friends in all of those places. My Detroit friend actually lived in Novi, so named because it was the sixth township in southwest Oakland County; i.e., No. VI. Anyway, he and I went into Detroit one night for something, I forget what, and encountered a large festival downtown. It was on that night I happened upon Robin Trower’s band playing. I love Robin Trower!
As I read this, I’m listening to: Too Rolling Stoned from the Bridge of Sighs album. No lie.
I’ve seen Robin Trower a couple of times over the years in Cleveland and my hometown of Youngstown, Ohio. The best show was at the Agora/State Theater in downtown Youngstown. I was about 10-12 feet away from the guy. It was all dinner theater seating, what a trip…
But since both the drummer Bill Lordan and the bassist/singer James Dewar have passed, I’ve not kept up with his newer releases.
Of all the Mustangs ever built, THIS is the year and body style I would buy. As a kid, someone in the neighborhood had one like this taken apart and covered by a tarp in his driveway. Then one day, a few years later, he put it back together and on its “maiden voyage” drove it around the ‘hood without mufflers. That was awesome!
Oh, and the S.O.S. Band, “Just Be Good To Me”! Great stuff!
Another fan of Detroit here. I try to take in a sight or two every time I travel to Michigan to see family or go to Motor Muster/Old Car Festival. I have very much enjoyed visiting Ford’s Piquette Ave factory, Hitsville USA, the Art Institute, etc. I even drug my family to the grave of Son House once! I think all Americans should visit The Henry Ford and Greenfield Village in nearby Dearborn at least once.
A CC meetup in Motown is a great idea! I missed the last one despite it’s relative closeness to me because I was already committed to visiting the Motor Muster with my daughter and my brother’s family for Father’s Day.
Here’s a video I shot with my phone last year at the Old Car Festival. This is a taste of why Detroit area auto events are the best I’ve ever experienced!
https://youtu.be/a_AKnn-usqY
i’m happy to hear such good news from detroit. aside from the great articles, i always appreciate the fine photography that accompanies them!
THANK YOU fior posting this great informative and up beat Detroit article.
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SWMBO keeps telling me we’re to begin touring America in 2017 and I’ve wanted to go back to Motor City for decades now .
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-Nate
grew up about 0.5 miles from the city limits on the west side (redford township). there was always fun stuff to see and do in the city and you can get from one side to another in a very short time due to the excellent expressway system. places like greektown and around tiger stadium, cobo hall, etc were always pretty safe to go to but get away from those areas and it could quickly become sketchy. i assume it is somewhat better now.
there is a revival of many sorts. food is a biggie as restaurant space is cheap and aspiring chefs can come in and make an impact much faster than they can in a large, established metropolitan area like minneapolis, chicago, l.a. or new york. there is also a fair number of irish pubs and german restaurants to go with mexican village and greek town and coney islands. in days gone by a trip to detroit would warrant a tour of the stroh brewery. alas, that is now gone. light manufacturing has made a comeback too. watches, bikes, coats have all seen a ‘renaissance’ of sorts.
do not forget that windsor, ontario, canada is close by with proper documentation. to walk and eat on oulette street is a study in contrast with detroit. best done in summer by the way. actually the best view of the detroit skyline is from across the river in windsor, ontario.
and of course there are the automotive pulls for this group. ypsilanti, mi has various oddball automotive museums, and there are all sorts of weekend car shows, car museums and all sorts of engine and body modification manufacturers to visit. the detroit public library probably has the best automotive section of any public library in north america. i needed a wiring diagram for my ’68 firebird years ago and my dad suggested i go downtown to the main library. within 10 minutes of asking the research librarian i had access to information on every wiring harness in a ’68 fbird.
greenfield village, dearborn, michigan. if you do not know what this means look it up. you could spend an entire day there and still not see it all. incredible historical detail.
i could go on but i won’t. paul i say see if you can get ronnie schreiber (sp?) to suggest spots to tour. he is a walking encyclopedia of current and historical car scene in southeast michigan.
Ha, that is taken steps from where I lived on Sunset Ave. Can’t count the number of times I went for a walk on that path instead of studying…
It’s got virtually nothing to do with being car-obsessed, but I’ve always wanted to visit Detroit, and any American I mention this to always tells me I’m nuts.
This article just makes me want to go even more.
The Great Lakes Region is a relatively unknown part of the country to most people especially those living on the coasts..
Detroit, Cleveland, Toledo, Buffalo, and Milwaukee all have surprising tourist delights. Remember with the dawn of the manufacturing age in the US beginning more than a century to century and a half ago that there was incredible wealth generated in these cities, much of which is still quietly present, and that the architectural “bones” of these cities is remarkable with still much to see and experience.
I happen to live in Ohio and I love Detroit. Let me, an Ohioan (and an OSU fan), repeat that: I LOVE DETROIT. The Detroit Institute of Art (the DIA), The Henry Ford Museum, old Henry Ford’s home Fairlane, and The Edsel Ford home in Grosse Pointe are just absolute gems to see. I agree that the night life is surprisingly good and fun. Food, drinks, and entertainment will not disappoint. Good times will be had by all willing to visit. It’s always fun to see the Tigers play the Indians during the summer, whether in Detroit or Cleveland.
Overall, I would also recommend Detroit for a further CC meeting site and suspect that any CCers attending that Detroit meeting will be delighted beyond their dreams, even more so than the site of the last meeting, Nashville which was also a a pleasurable delight.. There is so much automotive history present in the region guaranteed to bring smiles to CCers.
Cheers, yr lyl & fthful srvnt.
A Fox-platform Ford in front of the Fox would have been perfect! An Audi or VW Fox would have been pretty good too.
I believe that in the ’50s the Fox was part of the chitlin circuit. I have a Big Maybelle CD, and the booklet includes a photo of her performing at the Fox in 1956.
A Fox-platform Ford! I did think of this Staxman. :). I do like the Fox-Stangs, but I was more than alright with this photogenic, first-gen 2+2 being the car that happened along.
I’ve only visited Detroit once, in January 2012 for NAIAS. I loved it. I had read books on many of the Rust Belt cities in the past and had come to develop a real fascination for Detroit, its history and its architecture. Downtown was a delight… a little quiet (it was the dead of winter though!) but full of great sights. I also went with a friend to Brush Park which was hauntingly beautiful. I want to go back!
Another Detroit fan here. There for too short a time in 2010, wish to go back.
Don’t forget the DIA and a truly world class collection. Sorry to hear the W P Chrysler Museum just north has now closed permanently.
This is sad, but the Chrysler Museum rarely changed its displays, so there was little need to return unless you have a pathological need to be around old cars (as I do).
I visited for the last time last month.
Nice catch on the Mustang, Joe. It was a late driving season this year; it’s probably been less than three weeks since I drove one of mine.
Nice pics and story Joseph. I wonder if that jewelry store is still selling Bulova watches? One of my hobbies is collecting old Bulova and Seiko watches and it is a joy to find one from the 1940’s or 1950’s (when everybody aspired to a Caddy and a Bulova watch) at a thrift store.
How wonderful it is to read of others’ enthusiasm for Detroit. Thanks for reading, glad I could give you a taste, and I hope the CC meetup happens.
As a lifelong Californian, my perception of Detroit in the last decade or so is that it was indistinguishable from Kabul or maybe even Mogadishu in terms of infrastructure, amenities, and basic civic life. I’m glad to see and hear that’s just not true. And also glad to learn that there are other Robin Trower fans here on CC. Thanks Joseph for an inspiring read, and Merry Christmas to all! PS – I don’t know if they’ve been mentioned here before, but I’ve been enjoying some of the “Detroit Electric” series of crime novels by DE Johnson, set in Detroit in the early years of the auto industry. Not great literature, but enjoyable mysteries with a backdrop of automotive history.
Catching this one a little late, but it speaks to me as well–I’ve been quite interested in Detroit ever since seeing some “urban exploration” photos back in the early ’00s. Those piqued my architecture/history interest, and I’ve watched from afar some low points like the loss of the Statler Hotel, and some encouraging developments like the ongoing rebirth of Brush Park (though I would have loved to have seen it about 10 years ago before the demolition and construction started in earnest, even though most of the houses demolished were ruins far too far gone to save.) It’s definitely on my list of places to visit someday, both for those parts and for the obvious automotive history. Though convincing my wife to go might be difficult…
If a Detroit meet-up is in the cards I’d be interested, though it’d depend on a cheap flight as 620 miles one way is a bit far to drive for a weekend trip!
This just in – “52 Places to Go in 2017: #9, Detroit, Michigan” – New York Times: http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2017/travel/places-to-visit.html?smid=fb-nyttravel&smtyp=cur&place=detroit&_r=0.
I hope the CC meet-up in Detroit happens (and that I can go 🙂 ).