Aside from the day I was married, I can’t think of a time in my life when I was more certain that I’ve done the right thing than I am right now. Take a picture. This is possibly the happiest I’ll ever be from this point on, and everything else will pale in comparison to the relief I feel from not dying without ever owning an early Riviera. I’m not goal-oriented, and people may think I’m exaggerating, but I’m a weird guy who’s been Riviera shopping since 2001, I finally bought one, and it’s almost exactly what I’ve been looking for. With that being said, what have I done?
I’ve bought a Fawn Mist (which is light dependent, a sort of green, gold, gray color) 1963 Buick Riviera that needs quite a bit of work, that’s what. It was listed on Bring a Trailer of all places; bidding was slow because the car has the obvious hallmarks of long-term inactivity, so I was able to snag it for $12,750 plus the 5% fee that BaT charges to keep the lights on. That may seem high to anyone who is unfamiliar with first-gen Rivieras, but these things have appreciated steadily for quite some time. Additionally, it’s one of the rare “in-between” Rivieras I’ve seen for sale, in price and condition: They are invariably almost pristine or recently extracted from a cave. The paint on mine is old and there are blemishes galore, but it will clean up and be perfect for me (which is not perfect at all).
I bought the car from a family member of the original owner, who included most of the car’s documentation going back to its original build date of December 26th, 1962. The original owner’s name is still on the console plaque (Built expressly for…), and it matches the original title from North Carolina, which is where the car spent most of its life until recently (the last owner lived in Connecticut). Unfortunately, it must have spent some time in damp storage, because almost every electrical connector is corroded. On the other hand, the undercarriage is mostly solid, including the floors, rockers, and the often ruined trunk floor. Fun fact: This might be the first time the car has returned to Michigan since it rolled off the line in Flint in 1962.
According to the paperwork, the original owner likely kept the car until his passing in 1988. It then found its way to another family member before ending up with the guy I bought it from, who was apparently a nephew of a previous owner. That makes me the fourth or fifth owner, and the first who wasn’t related to the guy who first bought it.
One of the car’s first insurance policies is still in the glove compartment, and it’s a win for the “we’ve always been illiterate” boosters that the insurance agent couldn’t correctly spell “Riviera” back in 1963.
This program is also in the glove box; the original owner (who was nearly 60 in 1963 from what I can glean from the internet) and his wife (who was a member of the Motor Club) were ostensibly fans of motorsports. They must have decided to take the new Riviera on a road trip to Daytona Beach soon after they bought it; I hope they were as cool an older couple as their paperwork makes them out to be.
A little research on the original owner tells me he owned an auto parts store, and considering his impeccable taste in cars, I’m assuming he was a “car guy” who maintained his stuff (at least I hope so). With that being said, my fingers are crossed that he replaced the original nylon cam gear at some point. I’ll have to add that to my list of items to check. (Edit: I checked it. It has 12 crankshaft degrees of play; therefore, it is probably original. Add a timing set to the list.)
The car’s documentation also includes this “Glove Box Copy,” which lists the date of production and the original options, which are thankfully few. They include electric windows (boo!), Sonomatic radio, and the custom interior package in black leather/vinyl.
The interior is actually in fairly nice condition, aside from that sitting around in a barn forever smell (shout out to my mom for doing a preliminary cleaning). It has had some work done, as evidenced by the use of Weatherhead screws in places where the factory used pins to hold things together. Side note: Riviera power windows always have power (i.e., you can operate the windows with the key switched to “off”), which I don’t really like.
The previous owner did a lot of the work I would normally have to do, such as replacing the wheel cylinders, fuel tank, brake hoses, master cylinder, and the power booster. Unfortunately, he bought a bad booster that’s also the incorrect one for the car. I have made friends with some members of the Riviera Owners Association, however, and have procured the correct booster for rebuilding (it’s out at the rebuilder right now). The engine seems untouched, but the exhaust crossover plug is rotten, so I’ll have to remove the intake manifold to replace it, which is an easy job on a Buick Nailhead. The engine even has visible remnants of its original Buick Silver, which was a 1963-only color on Rivieras. I’ve never been the “numbers matching” type, but the engine number matches the VIN.
I’ve spent some time online studying the various quirks of Buick Nailheads in preparation for the engine work I’ll inevitably have to do (such as replacing the timing set). One strange thing about the car is that it does not leak any oil, even from the Dynaflow, but that is bound to change as I drive it.
This is my current list of Riviera jobs I have to do over the winter/spring/summer. It’s a long list, and it’s certain to grow as I peel off the layers, but it’s manageable.
There are a fair number of differences between a 1963 and 1964 Riviera, as I’ve quickly discovered. The obvious deviation is the Dynaflow transmission, 1963 being the last year for that interesting but ultimately dead-end technology (modern CVTs notwithstanding). Dynaflow jokes notwithstanding, the Riviera can just flat get it when taking off in low. It will absolutely leave my T-Bird standing around as if tied to a tree, regardless of what the old Ford filmstrips say about the 390 being competitive.
Another difference between ’63s and ’64s is the “Buick” lettering on the trunk; the “I” often goes missing, as was the case with mine. Luckily, an old-time salvage yard in the area had a ’63 model that had been stacked on another car since 1979, and it offered up its “I” and a spare wheel that I also needed. I love old salvage yards. For those still keeping score, it is easy to identify an early Riviera’s age from the rear: 1964 models had a “Riviera” script on the passenger side of the trunk and a stylized “R” in the taillights instead of a “tri-shield” logo.
Another thing I love about my new Riviera is its stock wheel covers. So many Rivieras have been air bagged with 20″ wheels or upgraded with Buick rally wheels that it’s refreshing to see one in a manner that many of them were originally equipped.
So far, I’ve only driven the Riviera a few dozen miles, as its electrical system is a mess, its tires are old, and it has no power brakes. I’ve replaced or rebuilt two of its taillight/front parking light sockets and adjusted the dwell (which is easy on a GM distributor). It has a noisy lifter/rocker arm, but after an oil change and a half quart of Rislone, I’m hoping it quiets down after some heat cycles and use (next spring, at this point). I’ll need to examine the instrument cluster to check the bulbs/circuits that are currently inoperable, and I’ll definitely have to clean the corroded fuse holders. The last time I drove it, the taillights and instrument lights stopped working altogether. (Edit: I removed the taillight and instrument panel light fuses and reinstalled them, and both began working again, so it’s a corrosion issue.)
Despite all this, the upcoming year promises to be a fun one for me and my new/old dream car. There WILL be heartbreak, but knowing you’re working on one of your favorite cars ever helps when you’re cursing at something.
By the way, the title of this piece refers to a ’64 Riviera advertisement I hung in my living room a few days after buying this car, and I can’t wait to get to know my new vehicular friend better.
But I already love it.
Postscript: See below for gratuitous Riviera detail shots, because I just think this is a great-looking car.
Simply love 1963-64 Buick Rivieras and this one ticks a lot of boxes. Lovely car.c
Thanks Carl!
Please check the motor mounts! If one(?) lets go, the weight of the engine can fall onto the accelerator cable/linkage(?).
Rev the engine with the hood up to see if the engine moves. Clarence Clemons of the E St. Band had to be cut out of his Riv that hit a tree in the late ’60’s.
My first car was a ’63 Riv.
Mine had a bad motor mount and the power steering pulley cut the upper radiator hose after a few drag races.
I’ve done the check Paul, and they’re OK for now. You can tell they’re old, so it’s probably something I’ll put on the list, but I’ve seen a lot worse. New rubber is as much of a crap shoot as old rubber these days; I had a brand new motor mount fail within 100 miles in my ’65 Mustang back in 2010.
Parts store parts for old cars get worse and worse and worse; it’s many years since we could buy a mass-market motor mount not made of compressed cow poo or chopped-and-formed political dissidents. In case I haven’t pointed you before, get to know Old Car Parts Northwest in Kent, Washington. It’s run by a guy who’s been collecting new parts since 1970, and now has multiple giant warehouses full. Much of it is inventoried and catalogued; much of it is tracked in his head. Literal tons of ignition, fuel, emissions, and electrical parts—switches of all kinds, ignition components, EGR and PCV valves; carbs and carb kits and floats, chokes and choke pull-offs, etc. Brake pads, shoes, cylinders, cylinder repair kits, cables, drums, rotors, shoes, and pads. Hard engine parts, gaskets, transmission overhaul sets, mufflers and exhaust components, fuel-oil-water pumps. Blower motors, wiper motors, clutch kits, turn signal flashers…engine mounts…pretty much everything except body parts (and sometimes even those). Most of it in top-notch “the way they used to” quality. He’s not out to offload his parts at fire-sale prices, but neither is he out to gouge anyone. Website exists but he doesn’t really work it; best to call. 425-572-0764.
And if you’re ever in the greater Seattle vicinity, for god’s sake make a field trip!
The Damper Dude fixed me up on some unobtanium Nash mounts a while back .
At that time there were two places re casting mostly old harmonic balancers .
-Nate
If memory serves me correctly, there was a recall on the motor mounts, but I’m not 100% sure.
Congratulations! Peak GM. Elegant, with a hint of sporting prowess.
Congrats, it’s a real beauty! 🙂
In my eyes the ’63-’65Buick Riviera is unsurpassed in both interior and exterior design excellence.
Thanks Chris, Christopher, and Steven!
Aaron65,
I am happy for you; congratulations!
That photo of you taking a photo of the Riviera in the middle of [some of] your rolling stock had me thinking how such a picture could be captioned.
My submission: “One man’s heaven on earth.”
I’d also say something like GLWTA, but change that a bit to GLWTP.
Thank you! My caption: “This guy is doing it very right or very wrong.” 🙂
Congratulations!
Sometimes work on a car can be fun. You’ve chosen well on the fun part – and you picked a nice, happy spot in condition. May you drive it in happiness for perpetuity.
Not to be an armchair quarterback, but rather to commiserate with a fellow enthusiast and save him future angst, a thought comes to mind…have you looked at the fluid in the differential or the condition of the heater core? Recently my 32 year old Dodge pickup announced its heater core had retired. Not pleasant and I would hate for the carpets in your Riviera to be ruined.
Good ideas both, Jason. The heater core is still a part of the cooling system and isn’t currently leaking, but that could change at any time. I haven’t checked the differential oil, but I plan to change it as soon as I start driving it with any regularity, along with the ATF, which is dark.
Hi,
I share your passion for the 1963 Buick Riviera.
It is a truly European influenced design in a beautifully engineered American car. I had heard that the Riviera was going to be originally introduced by Cadillac. It is great that Buick took the initiative in the design of the Riviera and the Wildcat cars.
I had a 1963 Riviera with the 401, (446 on the air cleaner-did not know what that number means) turbo smooth transmission, PS, PB, burgundy exterior and red leather interior, no A/C, electric windows. My best classic car of many classic GM cars. The 1965 Riviera and Wildcstcsre are sone of my favorite classics.
I currently own 4 Buick Roadmaster wagons which continue this Buick tradition.
446 was probably the torque spec.
Yep, Buick advertised the torque rating on the air cleaner. The 401 was a “Wildcat 445,” while the 425 was a “Wildcat 465.” My lowly ’65 Skylark is a “Wildcat 355,” which is weird because the torque rating is actually 335.
Wow great car – now all you need is an Avanti to complete the 1963 personal car competitive set. It is so interesting to see the original documentation, which reminds us of what a different era it was in 1963 where someone living in hot N. Carolina would order a luxury car without A/C or power brakes – I guess he figured to just use those fancy power windows to have 4/55 “air conditioning”. I hope as you get those small items refreshed and working that you can give us your comparison notes regarding your Buick Fireball 8 (i.e. 10 years of Buick progress) and contemporary T-Bird.
Hi Ole,
Thanks! I think I was unclear about the power brakes; Rivieras came standard with power brakes, but mine are currently not working. They’ll be fixed in no time.
I am glad it has no air conditioning; it never works (at least in my price range), and I don’t really want it anyway.
Congratulations on achieving the dream, Aaron! And it is a dreamy one! Can’t wait to see update posts of your progress on this fine car.
Thanks Sam! Parts are already showing up on the front porch. 🙂
Congratulations! This is the kind of condition on an older car I have been drawn to all my life – it is nice enough that with some added work it can be real nice, but it also has enough flaws that it will never be a trailer queen. Interior corrosion really irritates me, and hopefully that is something you will work through without too much trouble.
Your detail shots remind me of one of my favorite things to do with a new-to-me car, especially one I find attractive. Just walk around taking in the details. The shapes, the textures, the cool little things I had never noticed before. This Riviera is full of that kind of thing.
I already have dozens of pictures of this car, and I’ve only had it for a few weeks. I can’t even imagine how many I’ll take when I can stage it in front of interesting backgrounds. 🙂
Hear hear. Most happy for you. Bitchin’ color too!
Beautiful car! I had a one in great running order, HO scale. To my 8 year old eyes, it was a Chevy Impala. My first experience with learning to a identify GM bodies. My older brother set me straight.
Thanks Axlehop and Rich!
Congratulations Aaron. This car is a beauty. As much as I love the ubiquitous Buick Rally Wheels on these and many other Buicks, it’s great that this one has the wheel covers as you said. And those are some nice looking wheel covers too. You should stick with them.
Good Luck 🍀 with the refurbishment. Hopefully this won’t turn into the Bullet Bird for you. (Although I think you said that car behaved this year for you, IIRC.)
Thanks Rick,
The wheelcovers are staying for sure. The T-Bird has not been so bad this year, but it sprung a radiator leak (a new radiator, too) about the time I put it away. It’s always something.
Very glad to note that you finally found the one you were looking for, it’s VERY nice, if this is what’s an “in-between” car then, well, my standards are quite a bit lower…The Thunderbird must be casting very nervous glances across the garage now if it hasn’t already been banished back to the remote barn by now.
I would be tempted to immediately name it Buck, no, scratch that, it was begging to be named Buck all by itself. Alas, you already took care of that for yourself but to me this will always be Buck from now on.
Thanks Jim,
The ‘Bird is already out at the barn, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it spends more time than normal out there next summer…I hope I’m still on a Riviera high at that point. Re: Buck…it’s too pretty to be a Buck. 🙂 If it did get a name, it would probably be Lucille after the original owner’s wife, whose name was on the insurance information.
If you do name her Lucille, please make sure to cue up some BB King when you drive her around. 😉
Yeah, one of the best styled GM cars ever! My particular favorite is the ’65 GS edition with the Buick rally wheels. GM really put a lot of money into the interiors of these first gen Riviera’s. I think they were trying to match the luxurious interiors of the Ford Thunderbirds of the era.
I actually think the T-Bird has a nicer interior. The driving position in both is terrible, but at least I can recline the T-bird’s seat with an adjustment screw.
Yesterday, I looked up the interior specs, and both the Riviera and T-Bird have less front legroom than my Corvair, Dart, Skylark, or Mustang. The Mustang has almost two inches more front legroom than either!
Wonderful! May you get many, many years of enjoyment from your Riv.
Congratulations! The 1963-1965 Buick Riviera, one of the best looking post-war US cars, both inside and outside, just perfect. Good color too!
Thank you, Jim and Johannes!
I had no idea the color even existed until I saw this one for sale. I like it!
A gorgeous car – congratulations! Definitely a memorable car from my childhood. And, as with the recent Humber and Unimog posts, yet another vehicle which I have in diecast toy form. But not quite the same thing! As a Buick guy, I assume you know the song “It Should Have Been Me” first recorded by Ray Charles in the Fifties, and later covered by Commander Cody, with the lines:
Hundred-dollar hat, He was standing on the sidewalk, By a DynaFlow
When a voice within said “C’mon daddy, let’s go”
It should’ve been me …
Thanks! Ray Charles is one of my favorite musical artists, so I know and love “It Should Have Been Me.” As soon as I bought the ’53 Buick, I felt like a superstar. 🙂
Yes, the ’63-’64 with the EXPOSED! headlights has long been my number two “between the wars” dream car. Number one being the Lowey-mobile of ’53. Best of luck sorting out the electrical gremlins.
Thanks Ronald, I too prefer the ’63 and ’64, although I would have had no problem buying a ’65 if the right one would have come along.
Last weekend, I read over the incredibly lengthy comment section on the Deadly Sin article on the Oldsmobile Calais. The comments tended to center on Oldsmobile’s reliability or the car’s seemingly archaic mechanicals, but not so much on the image of the cars the company was producing. What GM truly lost was the ability to create cars that people just had to have – not for practicality sake.
I imagine the Riviera was a car that people really wanted to own in 1963-64. This car had an “it factor” making it something special, and it still does. It has long had a place in my fantasy garage.
You’re absolutely right, Eric. My neighbor across the street (who just bought an ’89 Corvette) was a longtime GM factory worker. He said they parked a Riviera outside the plant one day to show it off, and he couldn’t even believe it. He said everybody wanted that car.
“Good things come to those that wait”. Congratulations; she’s a gem, and lucky to be in such loving hands.
Love that pic of you in the garage; it says it all.
Thanks Paul…Even weeks later, I make excuses just to go out and look at it. 🙂
Unfortunately, it must have spent some time in damp storage
In North Carolina, this is what we call “Summer.” But Waynesville is way up in the mountains, where it isn’t quite as bad.
I still have my blue Corgi Riviera, made in Gt Britain it says on the bottom. There’s a lens under the windshield that makes the headlights glow when light hits it.
Ha ha…I imagine you’re right. It might have even been stored in a carport; there are several spots on the hood that have “bubbled” as if rain had long been dripping on them.
I’ve got that Corgi Riviera too!
A fine, good looking, well documented example of Peak GM!!!
Enjoy!
Thanks…I will!
Looks like a great car to get started on. Couple thoughts, I’ve never heard of power windows that work without the key on. Someone rewire them?
You say no power brakes, not installed, or broken? Can’t imagine a car like this not having them.
It was a federal mandate in the late 60s that stopped them from working without the key on to keep unattended kids from garroting each other. My grandmother had the dealer fix her 70’s so they worked all the time, but they wouldn’t (or couldn’t) do so for her ’72.
You could pull the key out of our ’63 Impala wagon and the engine would keep running. This may have been because the child safety inside rear door lock shafts needed a key (or a similar shape) to pull up.
My great-aunt’s ’68 Skylark had A/C and PS but not power brakes. I guess there were still people who didn’t like (or trust) them. Going from manual to power or the reverse takes some adjusting.
The power windows on both my grandfather’s 62 Cadillac and on my 63 worked that way. I don’t know power windows of those times worked that way across the board, but that was the GM Way.
Thank you! Ralph and JP are right; the windows are supposed to be that way. The car has power brakes; they just don’t work right now.
Great car in vg condition! Knowing the history really helps. I’m a hubcap lover too!
Congratulations! Love the car and colour. Will you have to sell anything to make room? Don’t sell the Dart!
Thanks Billyray and Jonathan…I don’t plan to sell anything, and the Dart wouldn’t be first if I did. 🙂
Outstanding car Aaron! Congratulations! These Rivieras have long been one of my favourites too, although all I own is a 1/18 scale diescast ’64 Riv (I also have a 63 T-Bird). The car looks in about the sweet spot for condition and I think the price paid was great. The car appears to have a solid body and that interior looks in great shape. Hopefully it a fun project that doesn’t have too many “surprises.” I like that you do the handwritten to-do list. I do the same for my cars and just made one for my Malibu for over the winter.
That is an interesting design with that plug in the manifold for the exhaust crossover. So I am assuming since it’s rusted you have an exhaust leak at the intake manifold?
I am not sure if you’ve seen these articles before, but here are is some good info on restoring paint and vinyl interiors that might be helpful.
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/live-detailing-classes-how-to-videos/126206-live-detailing-class-restoring-original-paint-meguiars-7-show-car-glaze.html
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews-by-mike-phillips/125973-how-use-303-aerospace-protectant-restore-vinyl-seats-mike-phillips.html
Thanks Vince! You’re correct about the exhaust plug; the moisture in the exhaust rots it out, which is apparently a common problem on Nailheads. I just got a box in from Rock Auto with a 10 pack of Dorman plugs, so I have a few spares if I screw one up. 🙂
Thanks for the links! I plan to hit the paint lightly with my buffer and a foam pad…not too much. It does need a patch on the bottom of the left front fender, and aside from some bubbling on the hood that I’ll probably be stuck with, that’s the only noticeable corrosion on the body.
I’ve pulled many a car out of buildings that had moisture problems. Back in the late 70s I bought 6 cars in a building with “terminal damp”. 5 of the cars had that damp smell, but one did not. The former owner was a bit of a hoarder who saved damn near everything including newspapers. He had filled that one car with stacks of newspapers, neatly tied with string.
That got me to thinking. What if it was the newspapers that absorbed the moisture & smell? Needing to get rid of the smell in 2 of the other cars [the last three were suitable for parts only], I began asking people I knew to save their newspapers for me. I filled several brown grocery bags with newspapers, placing a full bag on each seat, along with a couple of bags in the trunk of both cars.
It took a while for the paper stacks to absorb the moisture along with it’s smell, about 6 months if the car is in a humidity controlled garage, longer if the air around the car is humid. I also suggest changing out the newsprint once or twice a year if needed. If the interior is early vinyl, I suggest substituting a pillow case for the grocery bag, as the bag surface can stick to some early vinyl seat surfaces over time. If the car has typical organic woven seating surfaces [mid 50s & back] and rubber floor mats, put the stacks on the floor.
This method has worked well for cars that don’t have active green mold in the interior areas.
Another tip: To keep mice out of a vehicle in storage, ask a local pet store to save snake skins for you. I let the store people what I use the skins for, and they were happy to oblige. I place sections of the skins in small cotton cloth bags with drawstrings, and hang them off the rear view mirror and window cranks. Also throw one in the trunk and under the hood. The mice can smell the snake skins long before they gain entrance to the vehicle, and they will avoid the car. Plan on changing the skins about once a year. Use the little bags because the skins will slowly fall apart and leave you with little piles of skin bits.
It seems like a couple of buckets of Damp-Rid desiccant (they sell 4-lb buckets with permanently sealed tops aimed at RV and trailer owners) would achieve the same moisture-absorbing effect and be less messy than newspaper. The bucket is full of calcium chloride, which absorbs moisture from the air. Once the bottom half of the bucket is saturated (indicated by a fill line on the side), you throw it away and add another one. I keep a bucket in the back seat of my car, and in wetter climates, adding another one in the trunk might be worthwhile.
The one caveat I’ve found is that in really wet weather, the outside of the bucket can end up building up condensation. I’ve started making a point of setting the bucket on the inverted plastic lid, so the lid will act as a drip tray if it comes to it. (That way, the lid is also handy so you can pop it back on before discarding a used bucket.)
Ate Up . . .
I agree that the Damp Rid system does a great job taking out moisture from the air, however for some reason still unknown to me, the newspaper stacks seem to do a better job ridding the car’s interior of the mold smell. I’m guessing it might be due to having them inside the car for 6 months or longer, perhaps acting as a filter for the microscopic mold particles as they get trapped in the paper’s many surfaces due to natural barometric pressure changes. Again, that’s only a guess on my part. Interestingly, the papers never seem to get mold stains, and I think it might be due to the high acid content of newsprint [that’s what makes newsprint turn brown].
I don’t doubt your experience, and it’s true that Damp-Rid doesn’t directly remove odor (except I guess the kinds with charcoal bits mixed in for that purpose).
However, I’d be wary of the newspaper itself, because the same qualities that make that kind of pulp paper absorbent of odors also makes it very absorbent of moisture (is there anything so soggy as a mass of wet newspaper?) and potentially an attractive home for mold, yeast, and bacteria, giving them moisture, food, and dark crevices in which to thrive. Also, when newsprint gets too saturated, the ink may start to run, creating a dreadful mess.
In this respect, a Damp-Rid bucket and some of those no-spill baking soda containers seems a safer bet.
Thanks for the ideas, Bill and AUWM. My storage is also damp, both at home and at the barn, and we have big temperature swings in Michigan. But I use the cars enough that any smell that accumulates as they sit doesn’t stick around too long. I bought some Damp-Rid “buckets” for all the cars this winter (I usually use baking soda boxes) to try, so I hope that works for all of them.
My wife might disagree with that statement though… 🙂
Baking soda will absorb odor, but it doesn’t absorb that much moisture — probably the limits of exposed surface area.
There are however smaller desiccant containers (from Damp-Rid and several other brands) that contain a mixture of calcium chloride and activated charcoal, which is good at absorbing odor as well as moisture; they also usually have sealed tops so they won’t spill. The problem with those is that they’re much smaller than the 4-pound buckets and so they don’t last nearly as long. In a humid storage garage, the calcium chloride might be completely melted inside a month.
Another way of dealing with damp/musty odor after having something stored for an extended period of time is to use a chlorine dioxide gas kit — Star Brite NosGUARD is probably the most common, although there are other brands that are basically the same thing. If there’s a marine supply store in your area, they will probably have some, since they’re often used for boats coming out of winter storage. Once activated, you have to let it sit for several hours to let the gas permeate the area, and then air it out thoroughly for at least an hour.
Obviously, with any chlorine dioxide gas generator, it’s important to follow the instructions scrupulously and read the safety data sheet, since the concentration of gas when it’s working is over the safe exposure limit. When using them inside a vehicle, there is also at least a small risk that the chlorine might fade the upholstery; I haven’t noticed any fading when I’ve used then in a modern car, but an older car might be more susceptible.
Chlorine dioxide gas doesn’t absorb moisture, and once the gas dissipates, it won’t prevent something from getting musty again if it continues to sit in a wet environment, so it’s more a one-shot “airing out in spring” solution. (There are slow-release products that are designed to work over an extended period, but they may not be legal where you live and they’re definitely not intended for any area people or animals will be in.)
If you have a lot of humidity to deal with, you could also use more than one Damp-Rid bucket in each car — maybe put one in the front passenger footwell and the other in the footwell behind the driver’s seat, and one in the trunk. It all comes down to how much you want to spend, although at least the buckets aren’t that expensive.
Just learn from my past mistakes and use the plastic lids as drip trays! Fortunately, I don’t have bucket condensation problems that often, but I ended up having to take the floor mat out to clean it, hose it down with vinegar, and let it dry in the sun.
There are also now baking soda boxes that have a cheesecloth side or something like that, so you can use it for odor absorption without worrying about spilling baking soda all over everything. Naturally, they charge extra for that, but it’s like two bucks instead of 95 cents, something like that.
Wonderful looking car. Congrats on finding it. The 1963 Buick Riviera and the 1963 Pontiac Grand Prix were two of the best looking cars to come out on GM Styling Dept in the 1960’s.
Thanks Mike,
I actually wrote up a ’63 Grand Prix (not mine) for next Monday. 🙂
The entire CC commentariat is whistling, stomping, and applauding.
+1
Thanks guys…I appreciate the support. I knew you’d all understand. 🙂
Oh, just wow! And congratulations! As a former ’65 Riviera owner, I suddenly have a deep sense of loss!
It’s beautiful just the way it is, photographs wonderfully! The optional custom interior including the rear seat door releases, standard power windows and wood trim really makes it for me! Terrific period color combo!
Very cool to see the original wheel covers, that was the way most of them were pictured for MY 1963 advertising. I had the very attractive wires on my ’65, but they were more common by then.
I’ve been admiring these cars since my Aurora “Model Motoring” slot car days sixty years ago, and am very happy for you—I’m certain you’ll “keep it nice for the next guy.”
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255685192155?hash=item3b880669db:g:5cgAAOSway5i7pQn&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4CcSVxZhQHBFYkVpKdzynxYA4COYDIufqRkyZBN7hbcI4Ri5LkIMfA%2B%2BGnpU9ZyWDqeRgEIJXEmf3LvA6uKH9arogfEH2oAawP9yH84vWOKiBt3CDcbRosN94Qqgsw3Rcvqh9DCuwV8R%2F5VJvzV8jFToN9CBp2UfMewL1v%2FMTCb93nCr8X0QOCU%2F0yDtXDkR1h8OXydj57tjRyXV%2FlmQpLch7H4YqTy%2FKwMsDYIQWetiyS3p%2FjLWTN8ABR%2FNBG9xLl4UAyb%2FnGNHUzMDpxi2X4FcsCQok09sWB4wim3O2i47%7Ctkp%3ABFBM2prKhZhh
It’s said that money can’t buy happiness—but that’s clearly not true with today’s wonderful Riviera acquisition!
Ha ha! It’s true about money, happiness, and Rivieras. 🙂 That is an awesome slot car…that’s tempting.
It’s neat that it has original Guide T3 Safety-Aim headlights, too.
I’m curious about the Super Turbine transmission. You say: “Dynaflow jokes notwithstanding, the Riviera can just flat get it when taking off in low.” But what about in Drive range?
My ’64 Lincoln, I assume like your Thunderbird, had the option of starting in first or second. Second-gear starts were okay and perfectly adequate for most driving, but there was a lot more scoot starting in first. I’m trying to imagine how it would have been to accelerate in high gear all the time!
Based on period road tests, starting in Drive will add an extra second or two to the 0-60 times, although that’s still not too bad.
Maybe Ate Up With Motor knows what Turbine Drive’s torque converter multiplication was, but I know the feeling is nothing like what it might be starting out in high range with another automatic. Even my ’53 Buick never feels like it’s struggling to get moving, and the Riviera is so comparatively powerful that only someone who wasn’t used to it might notice. It still has that “more revs than it ought to have” sound when first taking off from a light or a stop sign, but before you know it you’re up to speed. It’s kind of cool, actually.
Maximum stall ratio was 3.40:1 at a nominal 2,800 rpm, if you mashed the throttle hard enough to flip the stator blades to high angle. (If not, multiplication was around 3.1:1 and the stall ratio was much lower.) Starting in Low would multiply that by 1.82, although you’d have to shift manually to Drive.
(Er, stall SPEED was much lower at low angle — I think notionally 1,500 rpm.)
Okay, thanks. In my daydreams, I always thought a ’64 or ’65 Riviera with the THM would be preferable, but no doubt you’re right — why not go for the unusual?
Aaron, congratulations!! Amazing find and I’m so happy for you. I look forward to reading more about your ’63 in the future. This is like hearing about your friend who got the awesome gaming system, and instead of jealousy, you can’t help but just feel great for him.
Thanks Joe,
Between the brake booster, tearing the dash apart, and disassembling half the engine, I should have plenty to talk about for a while! 🙂
What you have done is a marvelous thing Aaron ;
I remember these cars when new, they were beyond aspirational .
This one looks in very good nick and I’m sure you’ll sort it out soon and love it .
-Nate
Thanks Nate! BTW, I just saw in another post that you gave your Minor away this year! I wish I would have known…I would have paid shipping for a deal like that! 🙂
Yeah well ;
I did mention it needed to go in multiple posts hoping some one would want it .
I also gave away my 1959 Nash Metropolitan FHC, the one with a slush box and lots of new parts, the jerk I gave it to didn’t get the keys and refused to even ask the folks who took it away for them, I’d included a seriously rare unobtanium “BMC DRIVER’S CLUB” key fob and sent him a photo so he’d know I had, then he wants to accuse me me of malfeasance .
B.S. like this is why so many good vintage vehicles get scrapped ~ even a freebee gets blow back .
It sucks when you can’t do the heavy lifting anymore and no honest/competent vintage Mechanics to be found anywhere .
If ever you drive this dream boat Way Out West dinner and a tank of fuel are on me if I get a ride in it .
-Nate
50 years ago, my brother and I bought a 64 Riviera for $650. It had 98,000 miles and we loved it. I didn’t have my license yet, but would in another year. I had many adventures in that car and we both have wanted another one ever since. I had it up to 125 one night before I ran out of road. It made it 125,000 miles when the timing chain gave out. It was then was parked for many years and eventually sold. I hope you have many years of enjoyment out of yours.
Thanks Craig! Your story about the timing chain is why I checked mine. I just ordered a new set from TA Performance in Arizona and it was not cheap! But I wanted to get a good one, and there aren’t too many vendors making them.
Beautiful car, and a great color! Congrats!
Thanks Jeff!
You mentioned power windows and that they were on all the time. I don’t recall if you said they were all working? Guess they are after looking closely at your list as they aren’t on it. Manual are easier to work on but it is a personal luxury car so it is almost mandatory to have power. Three of my four don’t work in the Parklane anymore but I do have four rebuilt ones ready to go in. However, if the entire regulator assembly has to come out this will not be a fun job. In the meantime it is time to rebuild a 153,000 mile 410 starting this week.
You do realize having lots of old cars makes it hard to spread your driving time around. Like having 10 girlfriends and trying to spread yourself around.
Love the insurance paper where you can see comprehensive with $100 deductible cost $7.20.
Both of the front windows work; I haven’t checked the rears yet. Good luck with your 410 (especially getting the intake off!). Regarding your advice on too many cars: Don’t you have something like six? 🙂
This year, I managed a good amount of driving in each, so it should be OK. Most old cars sit in the garage with a cover year round, so they’re doing better with me than with most. 🙂
Total in the fleet including daily drivers is up to 10. As for the intake I lifted off the engine by myself with no help and no engine lift. Now ask about each cylinder head with the exhaust manifolds still attached.
The first thing to consider prior to working on an electric window lift; Is the failure to operate electrical or mechanical. The easy way to find out is to check the window operation at night with the dome light on. If when the window switch is pushed, does the dome light dim ever so slightly? If so, you have power to the motor winding, and it may be a case where the window was not used much and is either stuck, or the mechanism track is in need of lubrication/cleaning.
Often it is simply a case of backing the motor off a few turns to free-up the mechanism, and after cleaning and a bit of lube, the entire assembly will work again. When I had my 1955 & 56 Packard hardtops, I used to put the 1/4 windows up, then momentarily reverse the window just slightly so the mechanism & motor was not binding tightly in a “full up” position. The window was still shut, but the strain on the mechanism was gone.
If the dome light does not dim, it is likely either the window motor is not getting power or the motor needs to be rebuilt/replaced [some brands can be rebuilt].
A tip for lubricating the sealed-type GM AC-Delco [and other brand] power window motors: To lubricate the “back end shaft bearing”, on the stamped metal end plate, most of the motors have a small dome with the bearing located inside. I carefully cut a slot in the dome with a hacksaw or small rotary saw [Dremel type] and then add a drop or 2 of 5w machine oil. After removing any excess oil on the outside with alcohol or Brake Kleen, I put a dab of silicone over the slot to seal it again. I’ve saved many a power window in this way.
It’s beautiful. My uncle, a WWII naval aviator, drove one. If you really put me on the spot, though, I think I’d take that beautiful blue ’53 you’re standing next to!
Thanks John…I love the ’53 enough that it never leaves my garage to go to rental storage (unlike most of the others).
Aaron., you’ve got yourself an absolute belter there – well done. You tone reminds me of the day I got my Alfa Spider in 2021
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/my-curbside-classic/my-new-curbside-classic-1997-alfa-romeo-spider-2-0-t-spark-16v-lusso-fulfilling-a-dream-starting-an-adventure/
I look forward to reading more about it and your care of it, and the extra photos were just the icing on the cake of a nice piece.
Now, how about a Thunderbird – Riviera face off?
Thanks Roger. There’s nothing like “new car” day, especially when it’s something you’ve always wanted. I think I’ll be able to do an good old comparison of driving impressions once I put a few miles on the Riviera. 🙂
I’m partial to your Thunderbird, because, well – Thunderbird! But this car is gorgeous. I used to think these Rivieras always looked best in dark colors, midnight blue or black. But this gold/green mist color looks great on the Riv and reminds me of the early Mustangs painted in a similar hue. I hope it serves you well and how great to have so much documentation with the car.
Thank you! I wouldn’t mind a dark blue on a Riviera, but I’ve always preferred the “medium” colors, like medium blue and silver. There are a lot of white examples out there, but I’ve never really warmed up to them.
I Beautiful car I too am a classic car owner and yes at that age sure that all need a little work, and you are your own mechanic as I am a 30 years as a mechanic time and a little money is all you need keep at it and as you say she’s not perfect but as you keep working on her she will get better. Oh I happen to own a 1963 Ford Thunderbird, a
Very nice piece and the photos brought back lots of memories. My dad liked cars and he bought a new 1963 Riviera that had been on display at a mall in Birmingham. I was 14 at the time and learned to drive in this car. It was also my dating car later and my friends and I would go riding in it on Sunday nights when we were suppose to be attending church. You will recall the alarm buzzer on the speedometer. It can be set to go off
when a predetermined speed is selected. Very loud and obnoxious. One night while driving the car, the buzzer went off at 35 mph. I quickly moved the dial past 80! I didn’t drive that fast of course, but I forgot to move the dial back to its original setting at 35. Needless to say I had much explaining to do to my dad after he discovered it the next morning. I never abused the car and my dad let me take it almost anytime I asked. It’s a beautiful car and I loved it! Thanks again for bringing back fond memories and good luck on finishing!
Thanks Paul…The speed reminder works perfectly on my car, and I keep mine set as high as it will go because it is (as you say) obnoxious.