(RichP’s final COAL is postponed to next Sunday, due to a death in his family, so we’ll give his replacement, SajivW a head start. He’s from Sri Lanka, and this first chapter is a terrific read)
Like your first real love, the memory of your first car tends to stick with you, and you usually remember the experience a lot more pleasantly than how things actually went. I bought my first car not THAT long ago by the standards of some COAL-ers, just about 16 years ago to-date, which might be the reason it hasn’t yet melded into a completely pleasant memory. So safe to say, I can still tell you the tale pretty objectively, warts and all.
But first, a bit of background: I live in Sri Lanka, a small island pretty close to (but emphatically NOT a part of) India. Once upon a time, we were a part of the British Empire, and though they packed up in 1948, heavily influenced the local automotive scene during the major part of the 20th century, with a smattering of other European brands. Like many countries, we ended up switching en masse to the Japanese in the 80s and nowadays Toyota is royalty; although lately, the higher cost of Japanese brands means that we have Indian and East Asian brands on our roads too.
Speaking of cost, thanks to a long history of exchange rate problems, economic mismanagement and frankly stupid taxation policies, we currently have what appears to be the craziest car market on earth. Depreciation is a concept that hasn’t applied here for over a decade and used car prices only appear to go up. For example, a 2012 Toyota Corolla has a current asking price of 7,000,000 Sri Lankan Rupees (which is about $35,000)! But that is a story for another day perhaps.
I really wish this was a joke.
In spite of all this, car enthusiasm is pretty healthy here and we make the best we can of things, so being a car-mad teenager was no different than I imagine it is to be one in the US or elsewhere. I’m not entirely sure how I became an enthusiast since no one else in my family is particularly interested in cars, but I was pretty much always this way. My parents have told me that, by the age of 6, I could name most car brands and models on the road on sight, which sounds about right. The first car I can remember taking a specific interest in was my paternal grandfather’s 1959 VW Beetle, which he bought new and kept until 2000. Even as a child, the Beetle seemed so much more interesting than other cars, with its rounded shape, rear engine and musical engine note. I always hoped that he might eventually pass it on to me, but sadly that was not to be and he ended up giving it away (for free!) to a work colleague a few years before I was old enough to drive. To this day, I wish I had actually asked him to hold onto it for me.
When I finally got my driver’s license in early 2006, I immediately set about looking for wheels of my own. I had some savings, which were increased with some donations from my parents, so altogether I had a total of 450,000 Rs to spend (which was about $4,500 at the time). The car market was a lot less mad back then, but that amount of money basically meant that all my options were at least a couple of decades old. I had pretty much decided that I wanted a Beetle, so I excluded anything else from consideration, which in hindsight was not the smartest move. My budget could have got me any number of equally interesting cars, including something like a Toyota AE86 (this was before the “tofu tax” had arrived at our end of the planet), but stupidly, I didn’t even consider anything else. A good friend of mine who had a collection of classics was also getting rid of some of them at the time and offered me a nearly perfect 70s Toyota Corolla Coupe, for 175,000 Rupees, but I passed on it and I’m STILL kicking myself for that! (mistake number one)
What might have been
Beetles weren’t too hard to find back then. The weekend papers and the classifieds of our sole car magazine gave me lots of likely leads, and I looked at almost 30 cars over a 3-month period, but none of them called out to me. I had decided I wanted a post-67 car for maximum usability, but was reluctant to spend all of my cash on getting a really good one (mistake number two). Instead, I figured I’d find one at about half my total amount, that needed a bit of work, and slowly get the car done up while using it. I wasn’t very mechanically competent, but I knew a good VW mechanic through a friend who also owned a Beetle, and labour rates over here were (and still are) relatively affordable. I also bought John Muir’s classic “How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot” and read it cover to cover, to be prepared.
After 3 months of looking I was getting slightly fed up and was at the point where I needed to get a car NOW, dammit! (mistake number three). So I rolled up to see a 1969 dark blue example one Friday evening, noted that it looked fairly straight with a very nice interior and got my mechanic to take a look at it. He pronounced it sound but needing some work and pointed out that the elderly owner himself had said it hadn’t been run very much over the previous year or so. Despite my friends telling me not to rush into it, the next morning, I made the man an offer slightly lower than he was asking, which was accepted immediately, and I had bought myself a car! I decided to collect it on Sunday since the roads would be clearest then, and rolled up at the seller’s house bright and early with a friend along for backup. I had already told my mechanic I would bring the car straight to him for a detailed checkup after I collected it, but there was no way I was not going to first enjoy a Sunday drive around in MY OWN CAR!
We left the seller’s place without incident, although I did notice that the brakes were a bit weak. I put that down to the car’s age and rolled on (mistake number four). My first stop was at a fuel station, as the car’s fuel gauge was broken, so I asked the pump attendant to give me a full tank to be on the safe side as I was looking forward to a day of driving. He started the pump and I stood next to him looking at my new pride and joy, feeling generally over the moon, when another attendant started yelling and running towards us, because lots of fuel was flowing to the ground, from my car! Opening the frunk showed the problem pretty clearly: the seal on the fuel level sender at the top of the tank and the hose leading from the filler neck had both perished with age, so when the tank was full, it leaked. Brilliant. So we waited for it to finish dripping, I made a mental note about how much to fill the tank and we rolled on homeward (a distance of about 10km). Unfortunately, my luck wasn’t about to get any better. About halfway home, we were approaching a junction when an SUV in front of me braked abruptly, causing me to jump on my brakes and watch with horror as the pedal sank to the floor! Frantic pumping did nothing and so we sailed into the back of the stopped SUV at around 20km/h with a massive thud. After checking that my friend was in one piece (he was), I hopped out to assess the damage. The SUV had a tow bar that stuck out about a foot behind its bumper and that piece of solid metal had taken the entire impact, with no damage to the vehicle. Sadly, the same could not be said for my poor Beetle, which had a massive dent in front and a misaligned hood/bonnet. Thankfully, it was still in drivable condition, and since the other guy had no issues because he was undamaged, we headed directly to my mechanic’s place, all other plans abandoned.
Doesn’t look too bad, does it?
Because of the accident, the “drive it while fixing it” plan was no longer viable. So the mechanic and I decided to fix the accident damage, give it a once-over and see what else needed doing. I left it with him and spent a few days dealing with buyer’s remorse, but still thinking it would be a fairly straightforward job that would be done in a week or two – then, the phone rang. It was my mechanic, who had a gift for understatement and said something like “there seems to be a bit more work than we thought, perhaps you should come and have a look”. So off I went mentally prepared for the bad news, which was lucky because “a bit more work” was, shall we say, not entirely accurate.
First up, the impact had pushed the spare wheel back in such a way that it bent the structure behind it, and even moved the fuel tank slightly! Then, there was a LOT more rust than we had initially thought: the floorboards were crumbling at the edges, the sills were only half there, the door bottoms were made of filler, and some other things that I’m sure I’ve now forgotten. All in all, it appeared that my “honest runner that needed some tidying” would end up being a full-on restoration.
Just some of the old metal that was cut out of the car
Having no other choice, we went ahead as planned, and the car got a complete newly fabricated floorpan, along with new sills, new door bottoms and a lot more besides. Combined with a mechanical and electrical refresh, this rapidly ate up the remainder of my cash, so when it was time to paint it, I didn’t have enough money to do the job properly with a bare metal stripdown. We compromised and decided on a re-spray over the existing paint (mistake number… I’ve lost count).
Yes, it ended up being quite a lot of work!
Finally, after 5 months in the shop, it came out looking quite good and driving well, but I couldn’t ignore the fact that I could have spent the same or slightly less money in the first place and bought a properly sorted one.
It did end up looking fairly pretty, I’ll admit.
Still, no use crying over spilled milk, so I proceeded to daily drive it for the next 2 years, mostly around my home city, but occasionally taking road trips and just generally driving the hell out of it. Unlike US market Beetles, the 1500 engine wasn’t that common in other markets , so my car had the 40 Bhp 1300 engine and drum brakes all round. Thanks to the VW engine’s famed ability to run flat out all day, it more than kept up with traffic. A few times I even managed to get it up to 140 Km/h, with the typical idiocy of youth. Thankfully the car managed to get there and slow down without too much drama. I used it for pretty much everything a 19-year-old would, including ridiculous shenanigans like getting it stuck on a beach because a few friends and I decided to test out VW’s famed traction capabilities. That took an hour of digging (by hand) and shoving to get out of. The Beetle was generally reliable during that time, although I did have a few issues with the ignition coil, which left me stranded once or twice, and a few electrical issues that were to be expected in a nearly 40 year old car.
Yeah, this took some getting out of!
After about two years of use, my penny-wise approach to paint was coming back to bite me in the rear, and bubbles were noticeable in various areas. Besides this, my girlfriend at the time was not thrilled about riding around in our tropical climate in a car with no air con (average temperatures are around 30-35 C year-round in my city), and she regularly asked me why I was bothering with an old heap (needless to say, that relationship didn’t work out). In early 2009 I got a different daily driver (COAL soon) and the Beetle was relegated to “weekend car”. But with one thing and another it didn’t get much use due to other projects, so eventually I started thinking about selling. The paint was looking pretty bad by this point, so I didn’t exactly have buyers lining up. After a couple of months of advertising with no results, someone looking for a project car came up with an amount I thought was not too bad (300,000 Rupees or $2,700 at that time), and so we shook hands and he drove it away. I totaled up my bills (reluctantly) and found that I had spent nearly double that over the years, so overall it wasn’t exactly a financially sound choice.
Nostalgia can be a powerful drug though because last year, I decided I sort of wanted a Beetle again and started looking semi seriously for my old car, hoping it survived. I was thrilled to find it come up in an online ad, but my enthusiasm waned when I saw the shape it was in; someone had turned it into a “convertible”, done a remarkably crap job of it, and was using it as a wedding car.
Goodbye structural rigidity. No windows anymore either, obviously.
So bang went the idea of buying it back sadly. But somehow, I still haven’t entirely shaken off the hankering for a Beetle and keep browsing the classifieds every now and then looking for a decent one. They’ve gotten a lot more expensive and everything that has come up so far has not been in great shape. Hopefully, all the lessons learned last time around will stick and if I do get one, it will be a happier tale. Watch this space.
Great first COAL SajivW, good luck with the series. I still keep a look out for all my COALs, although aside from my first Opel I never have seen them. Just as well I suppose.
Welcome to the COAL family! Great story. We’ve all been there at a young age and the important thing is that we all learn not to repeat the failures of the past. Especially when we’re tempted 30 years later to purchase another car like the one we had in our younger days.
And I thought the 2 new Super Bugs (’71, ’73) I had were expen$ive to run! OWCH!!! 🙁 DFO
Great first post. Looking forward to hearing more about the peculiarities of the Sri Lanka auto market.
I’ve often been curious as to what happened to some of my previous whips, buy like you I’m probably better off not knowing.
This sounds a lot like DougD’s experience with his Triumph TR4, except you hired out the work:
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/cars-of-a-lifetime/coal-1962-triumph-tr4-know-when-to-hold-em/
As the saying goes, the cheap ones are expensive and the expensive ones are cheap.
Great read this morning, and welcome to a new contributor!
There were still a fair number of battered Beetles at my high school in the early ’90s. My mom called them “death traps,” and I would never have been allowed to have one, even though I’ve always thought they are cool.
Too bad that most of the memories associated around this one had to do with mistakes and lost money. Even if John Muir would have you believe that the Beetle can be kept alive by a mechanical novice, that doesn’t mean it’s cheap to do so.
Have you ever seen a VW Thing in Sri Lanka before? I’ve always wanted on of those, as it would make for a really unique and funky convertible to drive along the coast.
There are a couple of things here, I’ll see if I can find some pictures.
Thanks for the welcome!
Car dreams of youth seem a universal language. Well written memory a 1st ride you could call your own.
Not to encourage you or anyone else to do something stupid again, but my parents once had a Beetle with air conditioning. It worked well and really didn’t make it all that much slower than it already was. The AC doesn’t add any heat to the engine cooling system, unlike with other cars. The condenser uses an electric fan and is installed somewhere under the front end.
Several companies actually still make versions of these Beetle AC units.
I wouldn’t want anything but a Super Beetle, which gets the windshield out of your face and adds a few inches of wheelbase to the front and a modern front suspension for a less torturous ride, and more trunk room (I think). Probably slightly less of a death trap too, if slightly less cute.
It was criminal of VW to keep making original style Beetles once the Super came out. But they did. I think all of them they kept selling in Mexico or elsewhere after they ended in the US were unSupers.
The modern front suspension of the Super made it less suitable for dirt road conditions in places like rural Mexico. Wheelbase was the same.
Welcome to CC, Sajiv, and a great COAL! You’re probably a generation or two younger than me but I never owned an air-cooled VW, or even had much direct exposure to them other than them being all around me when I was growing up. Looking forward to seeing what the next installment brings.
GREAT story SajivW. You are a very good writer.
You got two years of use out of the car. Just think what two years worth of new car payments would have cost. Puts things in perspective.
I remember taking a taxi from the Kandy train station to a somewhat remote hotel, a stopover on my way to Nuwara Eliya, and 20 feet off the road half overgrown by jungle was a late-50’s/early-60s Beetle. An unusual find I thought since, as you say, the vast majority of cars were Japanese. It looked like a scene from Apocalypse Now.
Glad to hear you’ve visited us, hope it was a good trip!
Beetles were very popular in Kandy for some reason, a lot of them were used as dailies even after the rest of the country switched over to the Japanese.
Pretty hilly country as I recall. Maybe rear engine/RWD made more sense than front engine/RWD.
I enjoyed the trip immensely. Sri Lankans are on the whole are gracious, welcoming people. Less frantic than India and the short amount of time it takes to get from sea level Columbo to 6000′ Nuwara Eliya is amazingly short. Plus, I’m a tea drinker and the best cup I ever had was in Nuwara Eliya, up amongst the tea plantations.
Thank you Sajiv for a great post! Nostalgia is a funny thing about folks’ first cars – I remember a few things that drove my batty about my first car, like a rattling dashboard and a leaking trunk, but after a certain amount of years those things just melt away. I mostly now just recall that trilling feeling of have MY OWN CAR!
To see your car turned into a sloppily-done convertible must have been devastating, seeing how much effort you had put into it. I always been hesitant to search for my former cars for exactly that reason.
I had no idea about Sri Lanka’s crazy car market — I’d love to hear more about the market there if you should ever get a chance.
Thanks Eric! It was rather painful, if I’m honest.
If there’s interest, I will see what I can do to create an article about our market. It’s certainly one of the nuttiest out there. Given the median income in the country, the prices make them even less affordable to the average person than they seem at first.
I’m pleased to see this series get under way, seeing that it’s from Sri Lanka. I’m always eager to hear the experiences of those in other countries. Sajiv first contacted me a year or two ago, expressing interest in writing a COAL. There were a few delays, but it was worth the wait.
Thanks for the opportunity to tell my stories Paul, I hope everyone enjoys them.
I assume Sri Lanka doesn’t have much of a domestic auto industry, if any. Do you have restrictions on imports of cars?
Not much to speak of Staxman. We have a couple of small scale assembly operations of CKD kits from Indian/Chinese companies, but that’s about it. The small size of the country and market means it doesn’t really make much sense.
Hasn’t stopped our government from attempting to get carmakers to come here though.
Imports are very restricted. The usual practice is that cars older than 3 years are not allowed in at all. At the moment though, due to a series foreign currency shortage and the aftermath of COVID, imports have been completely stopped since mid 2020. This is expected to continue until 2022 at least.
I thought our used car market was crazy.
Welcome to the club, SajivW!
Great article!
Thank you for the kind words everyone, hope the rest of the series also proves to be an enjoyable read. There’s definitely a fair bit of variety anyway!
Great start to the series. +1 re. hearing more about the crazy car market there.
And…”wedding car”? That may be a local tradition that also requires further explanation.
Wedding cars are definitely a thing in America and the UK, but they’re more upscale than a bug! I’d expect to see something like a Cadillac limo, a Rolls-Royce, a Mercedes, a Citroen DS, or some such. I’ve heard of at least one Citroen Traction Avant wedding car.
WELCOME SAJIV ! .
I remember my first vehicle too, it was a rusted out 1959 Ford F100 pickup truck that should have been scrapped . (it had been abandoned when I got it free)
Old air cooled Beetles are fun ti drive and easy to maintain but yes, death traps , glad you have some good memories of it .
-Nate
Great story, Sajiv! Oh, the mistakes we make when we limit our choices/rush into something/try to be “economical”! But then, how would we amass all of our wisdom & experience, if not from those youthful misadventures, LOL!? Welcome and looking forward to your next COAL!! 🙂