From the Cohort, by Roshake 77
(Some driving and some sightseeing)
It was winter in Madrid and as we walked towards the supermarket she took me to look at the car, a Rover 200 handed down by her younger sister. Her plan was for this vehicle to take us to Andalusia for sightseeing around Granada and Cordoba, with great interest in the Alhambra on the former. With the Rover, I was to experience a car that had just fallen into my hands for the second time in a scant few years, no money exchanged. At least from my pockets, as my Spanish girlfriend had just spent a good 600 euros in suspension work. No wonder vintage iron was rare in Spain!
Such a disappointment. Occasionally an old Beetle, Fiat or Seat would pass by; but rather uncommon in general. Steady salaries and high maintenance costs made me realize, much to my dismay, that Spain was not the best location for antique cars. Much unlike South America, where struggling finances force to treat older vehicles as family members. Mechanical knowledge, even rudimentary, is put to place in endless effort to keep any terminal ailment protracted through miracle fixes and satanic worship rituals.
Pretty much a dead ringer for our car. From the Cohort by Roshake 77.
My Spanish girlfriend’s plan was to drive her recently ‘acquired’ car in a 4 day trip around Andalusia’s ancient Moorish remnants; the Alhambra, and the Great Mosque of Cordoba. And we would be driving a Rover? By the early 2000’s the brand had been absent in the US for decades and its mention didn’t bring anything to my mind, except some distant image of turbine cars. Rover? Still exists? As we approached the car, I could see its dated-but-slim 80’s lines covered in light snow. “Looks like a Honda… or a shrunk Sterling” I thought.
It was cold and me, Mr. Tropical boy, didn’t feel like doing an extended check on the car. At quick glance the car looked sound enough, a long way from the typical basket cases that had been my norm. The car’s shape made me feel pretty sure a Honda lurked underneath, and with that in mind, didn’t worry too much about breakdowns. Then again, could the brits find a way to mess with Japanese reliability?
Cold, efficient housing. Madrid, 2021.
We left for Andalusia mid-week, speeding away on the Autovía. Roads and infrastructure are very modern and efficient in Spain; urban planning is taken very seriously. Spain’s city sprawl is an excellent example of modern rational architecture. A myriad of cleanly delineated housing blocks passed by, one after the other, all with ample roads and easy ramp access to the Autovía. Modern Spain had a clean, orderly, rather homogenous look. Probably what some hedonistic Americans would refer to as ‘communism’: “How does one personalize a housing block, honey?”
That said, I still had to get used to Spanish driving. While in the Americas l lived by the mantra of every driver is a maniac, Spanish drivers were generally law abiding. Only a small percentage went about like maniacs, which proved hard for me to gauge. A general feeling of order had me constantly lowering my guard, only to be suddenly shaken as some nut sped by recklessly.
The Alhambra, Granada. 2005.
Our destination was a 4 hour away drive, the city of Granada, where the Alhambra fortress had served as the Moors last bastion against Spanish forces back in 1491. The Moors had capitulated after a months-long siege by the Spaniards, and with that their presence in the Iberian Peninsula came to an end.
Talking about last bastions, what about the Rover 200 series? What was it like to drive this close-to-last defender of BL fortunes?
Odd. As miles accrued my feel for the car was ambiguous, as it embodied a concept of luxury alien to me. I had grown around Japanese and American cars where ‘luxury’ meant tons of inconsequential frosting: bordello interiors, seasick inducing mushy suspensions, vinyl tops, Cartier clocks, thermometers; the brougham manual. Instead the Rover was actually really supple, with no nauseous results. The interior was comfortable and spacious, especially for a compact. The hatchback and the cargo area made loading and travelling easy. The wood accents looked convincing, although such details on an economy car had always left me cold; the whole Rolls Royce for Accord prices had never been my thing. Regardless, there’s a market for such clients and the Rover 200 series sold rather well. And in this case, cheap-luxury wasn’t only cynical frosting. Some real engineering was at play.
Rather luxurious interior wasn’t just for show. Photo from the web.
Chassis dynamics were good, a mix of Honda and Rover efforts, with the car feeling planted on the road. Again, an odd feeling, with my brain suffering cognitive dissonance; such responsive chassis didn’t seem to belong in a car as soft as the Rover (or so my American trained mind told me). My main gripe though, the over boosted steering. For the first time ever -in a small car- I had to steer by ‘memory’, as I had no feel whatsoever as to what the wheels were doing. Familiarity with the vehicle would eventually help on this matter.
Rovers came both with BL and Honda engines. My girlfriend (and her sister) not being into ‘car stuff’ had no clue as to what lurked underneath. So, I owe you that. It revved and sped well enough, as the rev counter indicated. Meanwhile, the interior was rather silent with hardly any intrusion from said engine; another positive checkmark on the ‘luxury’ brief. On the other hand, working against said ‘luxury’ intentions: the exterior. It looked good enough, but Rover’s tendency to sway between ultra-modern (the SD1) to overtly traditional British styling must have made sense within European confines. Abroad, one could never figure out which of the two the carmaker wished to be (the Sterling was a flop in Puerto Rico). Modern or lux? Or are you just being the quintessential British eccentric?
Honda’s Concerto was the 200’s close sibling. Suspension and engines differed. From the Cohort by Roshake77.
At launch in 1989 the 200 series was aimed at young professionals, an always coveted market segment. After driving it I could tell Rover had succeeded in providing a different driving experience for that segment. The Golf, with which it competed, offered a more ‘spirited’ experience. Fiat, Open, Renault and Peugeot offered their own takes as well. In a very competitive segment, the Rover brought an interesting alternative, this at a time when driving feel was still a brand identity issue.
We arrived to Granada in comfort and with nary a worry. As we approached our hostel near the Alhambra, I got SERIOUSLY lost around the narrow streets of the historic enclave. This being before Google Maps, and not being able to find a way out of the jam I had gotten myself into, I ended up making a VERY illegal U-turn, finding the hostel’s street soon after. Luckily no Spanish cop was around to revoke my international driver’s license. As always, reaching the hostel had proven to be a chore, as parking is always difficult around sites built before carriages were the norm.
Andalusia’s Casas Blancas (White Houses) architecture surrounded the Alhambra.
After dropping our luggage we went out for Spanish tapas. I won’t belabor around tapas, as they’re too varied to get into detail. In short, they’re snacks and appetizers found in just about every Spanish street pub, varying from region to region. Tapas bars being everywhere, it is a matter of choosing which has the ambiance one prefers to spend the rest of the evening at. Most are cozy affairs, with thick tobacco smoke filling the interiors. As the evening progressed, Spaniards didn’t disappoint in their well-regarded fame for socializing. Youths, couples, and families hanged at the pubs until late while eating tapas and drinking wine. None of this was performed in a self-indulgent manner, instead, all was done with a casual life-is-thus air.
Early next morning we took to the Alhambra. We walked towards the entrance only to come across a gypsy lady selling roses. Not buying any, she immediately placed a curse on us as we walked away. Me, being a newcomer found the whole thing amusing, while my Spanish companion seemed rather annoyed, probably having endured the same ritual in a few unpleasant occasions.
The Albacete. Photo from Wiki.
The winter visit meant we had the Alhambra almost to ourselves, as visitors were at a minimum. Entry was by the Albacete, the oldest area of the compound, looking pretty much like the unadorned fortress it originally served as. The Alhambra, originally a military fortress, had evolved during the 13th century to a palace, as it became the last holdout of the Moors against the advancing armies of the Spanish Kingdoms. The Albacete was a remnant of those early stages of the compound, before the Moorish rulers were forced to settle inside the fortress’ quarters.
Moving forward we finally entered the palace; which was elaborate, lithe and dreamy, like much of Islamic architecture. The Moorish style is built around a different sensibility of ostentatious, with intricate mathematical patterns spreading over surfaces, and clean open areas providing visual relief. The palace’s architecture offered a delightful tension between openness and ornate detailing. As one advanced slowly through the building’s chambers, architectural detailing would vary depending on the period of construction. Probably the palace’s better known site, the lion garden, provided a feeling of serenity in the quiet of that cold morning. As we advanced further, the living quarters of Washington Irving came across.
The Lion Garden. Photo from the web.
To most Americans their relationship with the Alhambra is courtesy of Mr. Washington Irving, sent as diplomatic attaché to Spain back in 1829. Arriving at the Alhambra after crossing the unruly Spanish countryside, the American asked to stay in the abandoned site, of which he had taken a fancy. By then basically a ruin inhabited by a few squatters, locals advised against his whims, to no avail. Still, good thing he stayed. His book, inspired by the site, was one factor in making the Alhambra internationally famous.
By early afternoon we exited the palace and took towards the surrounding hills. After a short while we reached the Boabdil hill, where the Alhambra can be viewed fully from the distance. According to legend, the last Moorish king, Boabdil, took one last look at his palace from this hill. His kingdom finished, he wept away as he abandoned Andalusia never to set foot again on its soil.
BL’s Michael Edwards finds a savior in Honda, 1979.
BL could relate to Boabdil’s crumbling empire, with multiple products failing with the public and market share perilously dropping by the mid 70’s. Unexpected reinforcements were found in none other than usually-go-alone Honda. With the 200 series, Honda’s alliance finally gave BL a product that clicked with the public. The 200 helped BL in restoring its tarnished image, while Honda gained insights into the European market. With the 200 selling in good numbers, BL could stand up to the siege for a few more years.
Sunset was setting in and Boabdil’s hill was getting busy. A few onlookers started to sing and clap, in flamenco style, as Andalusians are rather musical people. People bursting into singing out of nowhere was a novelty to my senses, although not as odd in the real as one would think. My girlfriend pointed towards the ‘gypsy caves,’ ancient dwellings by the hillside where according to travel guides, pubs and music shows provided the ‘real’ Andalusian experience. Too tired and cold to endure more gypsyness, I pressed to go back to the hostel. On the way I got myself a copy of Mr. Irving’s Tales of Alhambra and read the night away.
Rover’s traditional grille made a return in ’93. From the Cohort by Robert Wade.
Granada and the Alhambra done, next morning we rode again on the supple Honda, err, reliable Rover, towards Cordoba. The 2 hour drive was uneventful, and the car took us there with the same efficient-low-cost-luxury as it had before. Arriving close to noon, I was struck as large swaths of window washers came out of nowhere during our first traffic stop. Groups of 7-15 gypsies would swarm to cars, splitting in teams of 3-4. Nothing life threatening, but still, impressive in its own right. While Andalusia looks just as affluent, clean, and inviting as the rest of Spain, unemployment is rampant. In some cities, like Seville, the out of work can reach numbers as high as 30-40%.
Once again, parking was a chore. We drove around the narrow streets of Cordoba’s historic quarters in search of our hotel, and was thankful for the 200’s compact size. The ancient roads served to remind me why Cadillacs never made it big in the old continent. Heck, not even a lowly Valiant could have pulled it off.
The Rover’s practical packaging made for comfortable travel. From the Cohort by Roshake 77.
After dropping our bags I was ready for lunch. Regrettably the rest of Spain wasn’t. By this point of the trip Spanish times were affecting my American body clock, as their daily routines differed greatly. The obligatory siesta time from 12 to 3 pm, with lunch following soon after, meant nothing was open to eat. Unlike the Americas were businesses are generally open during daytime, Spain’s hours vary widely depending on trade. It takes quite a while to get used to their varying schedules.
We walked aimlessly around the city’s promenade, sustaining ourselves with some snacks. Cordoba’s’ historic quarters were impressive, as the legacy of the various peoples’ in its past were evident: from the Visigoths, to the Moors, and finally, the Spanish Crown. Back in the 10th century, Cordoba became the center of the Moors conquest of the Iberian Peninsula. Riding high on their success, the Caliphate of Cordoba was created. It didn’t last long though, as the Moors were affected by a less than perfect coalition, with petty squabbles festering between conflicting factions.
From early on, the Moors found formidable opposition in the form of El Cid. His remnants lay under the floor of Burgos’ Cathedral.
BL was riding high in 1968 too, as just about every single carmaker in the UK came under its umbrella. However, much like Boabdil’s shaky alliances, BL became mired in never ending efforts to put order in the many chiefdoms under its wings. Instead of a unified effort, short term interests, poor market assessments, and past simmering resentments (and a litany of other woes) played a role in floundering the whole effort.
Cordoba’s Great Mosque.
After a mellow evening, the Great Mosque of Cordoba was the main attraction next morning. As with most Islamic architecture, the exterior was discreet enough. Stepping inside, its wonders were revealed. Built in 988, the site’s state of conservation after more than a millennia was remarkable, impressive in every sense. Once again, the structure’s interior played with mathematics and patterns, with the ceiling seeming to multiply to infinity. An allegory to eternity, undoubtedly. A strong scarlet shade patterned the columns, giving a rich and striking look to the interior. Once inside, orientation becomes difficult as one gets immersed in the ever repeating columns. Was I getting closer to the entrance? Or heading further inside? And was that Jesus?
Yes, indeed. It was Jesus! As one moved about the mosque’s interior, incongruously, a Catholic church appeared, naves and all, inserted into the ancient building. Built exactly in the Mosque’s center to function as Cathedral, the two styles clashed stupendously, incongruous as could be (Spaniards had no qualms in showing who was top dog after la Reconquista). Questionable? Yes. But also unique.
The Cathedral, in the Mosque’s interior. Cordoba.
Unique, that’s how I could resume the little Rover. The low-cost-luxury-ride-provider, with good driving dynamics, comfortable interior, practical packaging and reliability. The most successful example of the incongruous gene mixing of Rover and Honda. So, what’s the legacy of the 200 series? Rover’s last day in the sun? A moment for British engineers to show that –in collaboration- their expertise was a valuable one? And what about Honda, who were in search of insights to better tackle the European market? Did the unlikely alliance paid off?
Much as it had occurred to Boabdil at the Alhambra, after the 200, Honda was done with BL and refused to provide any further reinforcements. Honda would embark on its own -not too successful- path in Europe, leaving BL out on a limb. Vultures were circling, capitulation was near.
The 200’s hot version.
The next day we took back to Madrid, another stress free comfortable journey. In the next few weeks the Rover took us on a few more weekend outings, while for daily affairs we stuck to the subway. The Rover was sold some time after my leaving, at poor value, as the low-cost-luxury vehicle lacked interest in the used car market due to its maker’s fading image.
The Caliphate and the Moors left an indelible historical legacy. I don’t quite think the 200 series can make such a claim. Can it? I suppose Rover could. At least in the case of the 200, the model is becoming a forgotten good in spite of once being a brisk seller. In Tales of the Alhambra, Mr. Irving tells how in local lore it was believed Boabdil’s army was dormant in an underground cave, in wait for the right moment to rebuild the Caliphate. I would like such a fate for Rover. That said, Andalusia has been 700 years in waiting for Boabdil’s army. I’m not holding my breath.
More on the Rover and Honda (all by Roger Carr – could it be otherwise?):
1992 Rover 214 GSi – Thanks to Honda, Rover Finally Finds True Success
1993 Honda Concerto TD – When is a Honda not a Honda?
1996 Rover 800 – Less Than The Sum Of Its Parts
1985 Rover 3500 (SD1) – The Best of the British; The Worst of the British
Wow!
That was a fascinating read. Thanks for another great posting.
This read was the sugar for my early morning coffee! Muchas gracias!
Another very interesting dip into a faraway place. I think the real difference between Rover and the Islamic world is that Islam at least retreated to a stronghold that it dominates, while Rover retrenched until there was no place left to retrench to. At least in passenger cars.
On the other hand, they share a resemblance in that neither could, ahem, “picture” profits/prophets.
Check, please.
A very nice, enjoyable narrative. About the only incongruity, for me, was the constant insinuations that said Rover was a ‘reliable’ and ‘desirable’ automobile. Admittedly, I’m just an American, but weren’t those two terms that were never normally used for British Leyland vehicles?
To be fair, the whole Rover/Honda/British Aerospace years helped put that reputation to bed. 90s Rovers were very good cars, good quality and of a higher perceived standing than the equivalent Escort and Astra rivals but at the same price.
The only let down was the reputation of the very fragile head gasket of the K-series engines, something that still sticks with them today, despite the majority of the cars still on the road having been modified with the stronger Lotus or Land Rover gaskets.
Why wasn’t Honda’s path into Europe successful? Granted, I haven’t been to Europe in almost ten years but, outside of the UK, I rarely saw a Honda. It seems like an excellent market for that car company, moreso than the US where it has a much greater market share. What did Honda do wrong on the Continent?
Seems such an odd thing to find this Honda cobble – which lacked only the Honda best bits of engine and box – so far from Blighty. Fake wood and general HBL (Hyacinth Bucket Luxe) doesn’t really seem to jive with 10 pm dinners or flamenco outbursts or sleepy lunchtimes, although this is a bit of a furphy – in very general terms, Spain is still a pretty conservative place.
Doesn’t help that the styling of these didn’t so much raise the average heartbeat as still it. I really do think of these as the Generic Car that might’ve been made to stand in for cars generally in some ’90’s ad for insurance or some accessory company. It’s the sort of car one tries to enter in a large carpark, before belatedly realising one’s own version was never an automatic with a pink steering-wheel cover.
Still, I’m glad it got you to the Alhambra in good shape and with the Rover K-series head gasket still sticking in place. Had it not been for the Moors who built the great palace, we’d likely still be driving in our horsey carts, and arguing about air pollution of a more food-derived kind. The Moors kept mathematics alive during the Dark Ages, and it’s maths that’s the basis of everything that has happened in all sciences since. (Not that I can personally attest, having begun to fail maths as soon as the subject met me in school, but I can sure admire what properly smart folk have done with it, and regard myself as an ignorant but fervent believer).
Another great little journey, Baron.
I look forward to next week, wherein you drive a Citroen across rural Montana.
Unfortunately, I have not yet made it to Spain. This only whetted my appetite; delicious tapas.
I have driven rental Rovers (in my case an early 2000’s mostly non-Honda-based 75), Fiats, Opels and Renaults in Europe and found them very satisfying in that environment. Ironic that none of those brands found long-term success in the US, though of course for a variety of reasons which mostly had nothing to do with the cars themselves. The Renault took our family quickly and comfortably into Spain, but only to Catalunya in the north. Thanks for this visit to the Alhambra; as a kid I was fascinated by the history of Islam in France and Spain, and was surprised to learn that Spain has territory on the African mainland.
Very good read. An overlooked car that I’ve seen on Northern European streets. To me, they looked like the Sterling that was imported here 30 years ago. Very nice interior, and it sounds like it was a very good car, especially if you can find a good used one.
Spain looks very nice. I know a lot of friends who have studied, visited and go there. The history is fascinating and the scenery and weather as I understand it, is fantastic – similar to parts of the US Southwest, according to my German and British friends who have experienced both. None of them would have insulted the clean, orderly, rather homogenous look of Spain – even the hedonistic ones.
These Rhondas sold quite well in NZ so Im told my BIL worked at City Rover in Auckland for some time and drove these as company cars but with either Perkins or Peugeot turbo diesel engines and there lies the problem of keeping them going long term the engine choice was quite varied the worst being Honda or BL gas engines the diesels out last the cars but its a long time since Ive seen one outside of car shows, readily available disposable ex JDM cars took over from storied brands sold new here.
Rich, I wish I’d had you as a geography teacher in school! Wherever you write about, you really make the place come alive. Long may you continue to contribute to CC (raises morning coffee in toast!).
Having spent some time in England and a bit in Europe, but not Spain, it’s never really been on my list of things to do. But your description of it all, especially the “clock” and doing what when, have me ready to book a flight over!
Back on cars, as that’s what CC here is nominally about, I never saw the Rover 200. I’m familiar with the “Sterling”, but I swear I never saw one on the roads, just in junkyards. I did wonder briefly if parts were interchangeable with “Honda” Hondas, but having little interest in either BL cars or Hondas I didn’t ponder long. Now I’m not a total purist, if an E type Jag fell into my hands I might do serious damage to my bank account trying to make it presentable, but I’m not holding my breath for better or worse.
Very enjoyable read, Rich. In 2003 I did a study abroad in Alcala de Henares near Madrid. It was my first time in Europe. My friends and I did multiple trips to Andalucia and it was my favorite region. Andalucia also has all the cities that the “great” American cars were named after: Granada, Cordoba, Seville..
Spain was the first place I saw these Hondovers in the metal. Not bad looking cars IMHO. They remind me of the Acura-badged Civics that were sold in Canada, but with some added liftback utility.
These are great, under appreciated cars to be fair. If I remember rightly, the Rovers vastly outsold the Honda versions in the UK.
My dad had 2 when I was growing up. One with the 1.6 Honda engine and one with the 1.4 Rover K-Series. Both lovely, luxurious rides, pretty much for the same money as a common or garden Escort or Astra.
And let’s not forget the Rover Special Products engineered 3 door hatch, Coupé, Tourer (estate) and convertible, none of which had a Honda variant.