I previously wrote about our 1988 Jaguar XJ-SC here. It recently hitched a ride to the tire and brake shop.
As I mentioned before, a friend in a Facebook old car group found a hardtop on a wrecked Jag in a junkyard. It was, in fact, a twin to my car. One of 295 Jet Black XJ-SC’s, out of 5,013 built. And it had a matching “Magnolia” cream colored interior, though there are no stats on the Cabriolet interior colors. Maybe all the Jet Black cabriolets had Magnolia interiors, or maybe those were the only two…..we’ll never know.
I removed the rear folding soft top, and attempted to install the near rear hardtop. It sat on there fine, but I was missing two clips on the C-pillar of the car, which would mate to two clips on the hardtop. I posed the question about what I was missing in a Facebook group for old Jags, and a member in the U.K. had made his own clamps. After some trial and error, he had arrived at a design he could replicate for anyone who needed them. I paid him about $80 on Paypal, and the two clips arrived in a week and worked perfectly.
The lack of a good top had been a holdup on taking it to get the brakes worked on. When I bought it, it needed a master cylinder. I replaced it myself, which was easy enough. However, I had never bled brakes before and I am not sure how good of a job I did. It stops, but the pedal has to go down way too far. It probably is better than “lot drives”, but I wouldn’t feel comfortable in heavy traffic, or at highway speeds. I did bleed the dark cruddy fluid out, until new fluid came out at all four wheels. So that needed to be done anyway.
Maybe we have some other problem; we are going to start with remanufactured front calipers, and new front rotors and pads as there was a shimmy when braking too. So with all those new parts and a proper bleeding, maybe we will see improvement. My tire shop really doesn’t want to have to touch the inboard rear brakes, they said. I think the rear rotors are a bear to remove, but the calipers shouldn’t be as bad, if they need replacement.
I was surprised at how cheap the remanufactured Cardone front calipers were, about $80 each.
The Pirelli tires have hardly any wear on them, but the date code on the sidewall says they are about 15 years old. The old school 15 inch size is cheap, so for less than $300 I found a new set of Michelins online for safety’s sake.
You can see here that the rear canvas-covered fiberglass hardtop, which has apparently hardly ever seen the elements, is a nice rich black versus my canvas T-tops. The T-tops were light gray when I bought the car, they were so bleached by the sun. I dyed them with numerous coats of black fabric dye, but that was the best result I could achieve. I need to go back and revisit that project.
Other than the brakes and tires, we don’t have a huge to-do list. The temp gauge has never worked, so I have a new sensor probe ($6) to try. Hopefully that is all it needs, as all the other gauges work, and the coolant is clean and full. The two hood struts won’t hold the hood up, so I have two new ones ($11 each) to install. The rotating headlight switch is seized in the off position, which is apparently a common issue on these old Jags. Remove it and apply electronics cleaner/lube spray until it turns, one of the Jag groups tells me.
But the big stuff works, knock on wood: wipers, heat and defrost, power windows, even the heated seats and power lumbar still cooperate. The engine idles rough for a bit when cold, but then smooths out. Hopefully new wires and plugs might help there. The transmission is a GM THM400, so it will outlast the rest of the car.
We will update once we see what happens on the brakes!
Maybe I am too much of a gambler, but I would do almost anything to avoid a flatbed truck. If the brakes work even some, I am a “drive it slowly during a really light traffic time with someone following me” kind of guy. Early Sunday morning is a great time for getting a dodgy car to a mechanic’s lot. Late at night (my other preferred time) is out if the headlights don’t work.
Good luck on those inboard rear discs! I look forward to reading more once you get it back to where you feel safe driving it.
I’m the same way. That’s what handbrakes are for, right? 🙂
Unless, of course, your handbrake cables are rust frozen….
I had the rollback on hand for another car, another write up for another day. We put this in the Jag’s former bay, so then the ride back to town was “free” for the Jag.
I became quite adept at downshifting and hand brake usage when driving my Fiat 124 convertible.
“Plan Ahead” is always my mantra with my old cars.
Lovely car. Cheaper used Jags are so tempting, but a bit spooky. I remember Peter Egan (of Road & Track fame) wrote his friends formed a Jaguar Owners Club. When one was tempted to buy a cheap old Jag that needed work, it was up to the others to talk him out of it.
I think internet parts and information have changed the dynamic. I think there’s a $900 XJ6 out there with my name on it.
Haha. I have the same (surely misguided) feeling. I was in San Diego a few months back and was sorely tempted (for a good 6 or 7 minutes) to buy a rust free XJ6 and bring it back to Minnesota.
I figured if it all went wrong, well it’s cheap and solid and I can go the Chevy sacrilege route.
The internet in general and social media in particular, are a big help for any old car. You can find instructions for about anything. And, you can locate factory publications as free PDF’s, especially for older cars like this.
As a lifelong mechanic I agree 100% that the internet and social media have made it SO much easier to fix and maintain almost anything, but particularly complicated old vehicles. Instead of having to rely on manuals, you have the collective experience of sub-sub groups of enthusiasts of your particular marque and model that have solved the same issues. This has allowed me to become a BMW E46 expert by just dialing up youtube, saving me thousands over the years.
Peter Egan’s monthly musings kept me subscribed to “Road & Track”.
Often I would read his column first and then the rest of the magazine.
After he entered semi-retirement I did not renew my monthly subscription to R&T.
Sounds like a real adventure! I don’t mean to be a stormcloud, but:
You may come to find yourself surprised again, unpleasantly, at how cheap they are—in the other sense of the word. Cardone’s reputation is very poor among a fairly large proportion of those who pay attention to these kinds of things. My own consistently bad experience with their stuff led me to swear off it a long time ago, and my eyes-and-ears friends in the various relevant industries knowledgeably inform me they haven’t got any better. Maybe you’ll get lucky and have no problem, but.
Which of course is why they are often referred to as A-1 Crapdone.
Many years ago I had to purchase a “reman” ECU for some Mopar product because, no surprise, I couldn’t find one in the wrecking yard. It was one of the stupid ones that were air cooled by the intake tract. Got the “reman” unit out the box with the “Remanufactured by A-1 Cardone” sticker with their part number on it, looked down the air intake hole and found a couple of leaves. Straight up used part that was given a wipe down and a sticker. Not saying that isn’t the case for many reman products of that type but still unacceptable.
That said in some markets and areas they are your only choice, which is why I begrudgingly purchased that ECU above because the customer needed their car and this was before E-bay, car-part.com, and partsmarket.com which dramatically expanded the ease of getting used parts as well as drove the prices down.
Wow, that’s cheesetastic. Reminds me of the rattlecan ‘rebuilds’ SCAAMCO used to(?) do, back when they were babbling on TV about how “half the cars [they] see don’t need a transmission overhaul” (I’m guessing the actual figure was 75% or so). I think that slogan was quietly discontinued around the time they got hauled into court for widespread fraud and deception; the settlement wound up along the lines of “We didn’t do it, but we promise to stop”.
Donno what you consider stupid about those intake-air-cooled Mopar ECUs, but they’re generally quite unproblematic.
I’ll trade ya: hollanderparts.com (which I knew about, along with car-part.com and of course Fleabay) for partsmarket.com (which I didn’t).
Well the fact that they suck in leaves and potentially other things including moisture is one reason to consider them bad. Considering I’ve replaced more of those than any other computer is one reason to think they are problematic, not to mention there was a point in time when the guys in the old school wrecking yard knew the numbers by heart because they sold the heck out of them.
They can suck in trash if the excluder that’s supposed to be on the front snout is removed. If it’s in place, they tend to stay clean and dry. And even if a little moisture gets in, they’re well potted.
ECUs in general don’t give much trouble—oh, sure, sometimes they do, but they’re not one of the more troublesome components on cars. Why, »TV announcer voice« half the ECUs I’ve seen replaced, didn’t need to be replaced! Usually the problem is something other than the ECU. It might be ECU-adjacent (corrosion or spread sockets in the connector, for example) but the brain boxes themselves just usually don’t cause problems.
Hijack!
Any of you know if glow plugs for a 2.4 Ford Duratorq are available in the USA? I have been wading through part numbers and it seems the best bet is eBay UK.
A question like this is real hard to answer usefully without a model and year—even if it’s one that was never sold in the US.
2003 US market LTI TX2. All the part numbers I’ve checked for other items match similar era Transits, but I’m anticipating some randomness due to the weirdness and low volume Britishness of the vehicle.
A TX2, how cool! Always wanted to try driving one of those.
Looks like all seven variants of the Ford 2.4 made in ’03 take the same glow plug, an NGK Y548J. Doesn’t look like that part had any usage in the North American market (except for the approximately seven cars LTI sold), so yeah, you’re probably going to have to shop overseas. Like here, for example.
Thanks, that’s what I suspected. I have family in the UK who can send me stuff too
My father was old-school about remanufacturing. He would buy parts kits and rebuild brake components, starters and alternators. This was likely because that was how it was done when he was coming of age as a young mechanic in the 1950s, and for our family vehicles he kept this up for quite a while, perhaps to save money. He was a professional mechanic, and I know he used reman parts on customer vehicles.
It seemed too much work for me, and I have always bought remanufactured parts for the sake of convenience. Though I have not had many problems with them, the relentless cheapening of manufacturing concerns me, and I have considered trying to rebuild some parts for my old trucks, and, if that works out, perhaps for my modern vehicles if kits are available. Because the time and convenience factor for remanufactured parts is huge, this may remain an unfulfilled dream, but it is something I think about from time to time.
Of course it is going to vary from unit to unit but a couple of years ago I was able to purchase brushes for the starter in my Crown Victoria, in stock at the local napa which is a distribution center, that part number should fit a few million Fords. I’m sure you can get the GM stuff too but beyond that it might get harder for the rotating electrical.
That is what I somewhat suspected would be the case, but ignorance breeds optimism. A quick look at the NAPA site reveals the grim reality. No rebuild parts are listed for alternator or brake master cylinder for my 2007 Subaru. Kits are available for my 1970 F100, but the master cylinder kit lists for $30, whereas a complete unit is $43.
There are electrical shops in my area that claim to rebuild starters and alternators, which I have not yet looked into. The problem is having the vehicle out of service waiting for the repair. That is OK for the old truck but not the daily driver.
I had to replace the brake MC on my Plymouth Gran Fury. I bled them through the master cylinder itself by having a friend press the pedal each time l would loosen the fittings. That worked well. Didn’t work so good on a car with ABS, but l was going to be buggered if l was going to take my wheels off that day.
That’s an on-car method of bench-bleeding the master cylinder, which is necessary when replacing it. But it will not bleed the rest of the brake system. For that, the bleeders at each wheel must be opened in a correct sequence. There’s no way around it.
As lovely as Jaguars are, the rumor of frequent (and expensive) troubles would stop me from buying one. I think.
There’s a lovely Jaguar sedan sitting at a corner not far from my house. And it’s BEEN sitting there for sale for a long time.
If you hate the buttresses, then the cabrio or convertibles are the only choice. I do like those sloping roof pillars but I chose a convertible myself. Good to see that you managed to hold onto the car for all these years, it’s so easy to let it go even just to gain some garage space. If you have not downloaded Kirby Palm’s free book,”Help for the Jaguar XJS owner,” be sure to do so. It is chock full of practical, hands on information. Lot’s of good info on parts substitution for some of the Jaguar units. Also check out Bernard Embden’s XJS website, lot’s of great coverage of maintenance projects with helpful photos. And don’t forget the Jaguar forums.com, a great helpful and friendly community.
One thing that the Jaguar owner needs is encouragement and a community that can help build and maintain your enthusiasm for your project. There are lots ( I mean LOTS!) of people out there ready to take cheap shots at you and your car. Many, if not most, have never had any actual experience with the marque.
Yes it is a complex car, but it is just a machine. Most problems revolve around “access” trying to get your hands on the part that needs replacing. Just take your time and proceed in a logical manner.
My own XJS passed the California “enhanced” Star smog test so I’ve just renewed the registration. My next project is to rebuild the front suspension, then renew the top. Lot’s to do, I’ve put the XJS back into my immediate project focus, so hopefully things will progress steadily. 2019 should be the year that my XJS is finally back on the road. Good luck with your project, I’m looking forward to updates.
I do have Kirby’s book! Almost overwhelming in it’s scope, but I can’t imagine it leaves any stone unturned.
Proceed with caution and a grain of salt as you read that book. Kirby had the best of intent in putting it together, for sure, but he tripped over some of those stones he was turning over. The lighting chapter, for example (because of course) contains too much* unwise, unsafe, uneconomic advice. He asked me for help with that section, and I was happy to provide it, but before the publication stage a lot of facts got replaced by a lot of baseless opinions—some of which can only be described as foolish.
*as opposed to just enough unwise, unsafe, uneconomic advice…
Thanks for the heads up Daniel. I suppose that all info should be taken with a grain of salt. Verify through different sources, etc.I hadn’t read many controversies about Kirby’s book on other forums. I have only read the areas that I’ve found applied to my situation. I think it’s still a useful resource.